macbruce

I spose this will rankle some trad folks but here's my 2cents........Butt weld (and I mean 100%) and finish 2 pieces of 1 1/2 x 1/4'' flat to the end of your 1-1/2'' bar and procede. Labor intensive, yes, but you shouldn't lose any serious mass by hammering this way..... Or you could split a 1-1/2 x 3/4 bar which would give you lotsa mass and draw it down to 1/2 x 1-1/2'' where needed, very labor intensive.....

You've got my vote, nice work........ B)

I would think a 2'' x 12'' would be better using up to 90 lbs for the ram without it getting sluggish, there's them that know better than me though........... B)

Yes, a beautiful artifact is how I see it as well. Keep it in the shop so the Old Timer can tell yarns to the young whippersnappers...... B)

I don't know if others have had this problem but when I went to cut the therads into the 1/8 nipple for the welding tip I discovered there wasn't enough meat to cut the threads deep enough to prevent leakage. The solution I used was to gently swage about 3/4'' on the end of the nipple with a tennon tool that just happened to fit the bill.

You made a purdy. nice work..... B)

Use 7018 on critical structural joints and dies, 1/8 or 5/32'' rod. You can get away with ''farmer rod '' on the rest; 6013, 6011 or 7014. Keeping your work strait is tricky as you well know because welds always pull. Welding say the anvil and the post counterpart true to one another requires patience and skill. I always do the collumn first, then the anvil. The collumn being a hollow (sq tube I assume)is more likely to give you trouble. I stand the collumn on the base, check it for 90* and tack so that it can be trued the easy way, that is by rocking back against the tack creating an opening I can slip a piece of shim into (paper even works). Tack it up well, then weld it up front to back, side to side. After the first pass re check it and do your other passes as needed. Let it cool completely and check it again.....When you discover it's out of wack, don't freak out, sometimes an extra bead put on the side you want it to lean to does the trick or if you know about flame straitening it's easily done with a torch. I use a digital level allot when building hammer frames. Even if the base plate isn't 100% level I can zero/calibrate the DL to the plate and get perfect 90's every time plus it reads out to one tenth of one degree and that is huge........Mine cost $120 or so 10 years ago but you needen't spend that much....http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=digital%20level&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CGMQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sears.com%2Fsearch%3Dcraftsman%2520digital%2520torpedo%2520level&ei=Rn8NUqeDHYiviQLBkoCYCg&usg=AFQjCNFrmSKKqsjaoFBhY0CKdel0d9sSiA If you do use a common level make darn shure the base plate LEVEL before fabbing, have fun...... B)

A fence of swords! I love this stuff, sadly there don't seem to be any surviving images of the fence, but there is this... a selection of the swordblades as recovered from the fence. Courtesy of Richmond upon Thames Local Studies Library Larger version

Sounds like an excellent way to increase wear and tear to an already somewhat stressful activity. Don't know if I've ever ''flicked'' but if I did it would have been with light finishing strokes, not full on forging blows..... :wacko:

The guy is either greedy or ignorant, walk away......... B)

At less than $2 pp you did very well....Using it as it was intended won't hurt it, have some fun with it..... B)

I always thought this archway(s) had allot of class and was pained to see the new owners put such a travesty below it when they decided to put gates below them.....I've done business with the Weckbaugh family for decades but was out of the loop when this happened. Still the arches and other ironwork are what they are. Finished in 1933 this is a historic Denver landmark http://www.google.com/search?q=weckbaugh+mansion+denver&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=H-8IUt7cKOiMyAGJk4GwAw&ved=0CEYQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=850 I couldn't get inside the fence to take pics of the screen door but it is very nice as are the balcony rails.

Without knowing what you paid that's kinda hard to answer........

That's a very special ol' boy you got there, don't even think about grinding that one. Still useable just as it is but it may be a collectable so I'd look into that before I used it....... B)

Quite often people (like me) will throw a price against the wall and see if it will stick.. :ph34r: ...Asking the seller if the price is firm is a good place to start. Looks like a fine anvil to me, make em an offer with cash in hand........ B)

Gun hooks. Sold a jillion of em at the ren fair for $13 a pair in 1985. 3/16x3/4'' flat, split em about an inch from the top, draw out the ends, make into a heart or ram's horn scroll and punch a hole just below, form the other end into the hook w/a little curl on the end and whalla! You can charge more for ones you've ligned with leather to protect the gun...... B)

Yes, but carefully inspect the other parts too, they can run into big$$$ I wouldn't pay more than about $500.

Recycled rubber horse trailer mat is pretty tough and it's 3/4'' thick. Great stuff.

Nice bit of engineering! Is the control your own design? Will it do single blows?

Very professional job on that anvil Peter, how bout some pics of the air hammer B) in the background, pretty pleeze.......

It takes more pulling force to bring a larger belt up to it's proper tension than a smaller one. Two B belts are about right for a 5HP motor which will power a 100lb LG. The 5hp motor has far bigger bearings to carry the load. The bearings on a poor little 1hp powering a 25 will groan and eventually fail if subjected to this.....I used a single B on my rebuild and it ran Aok but I could have used a single A. The deciding factor was I just happened to have a B-2 groove pull in my barrel of used sheaves that could be machined to fit. It probably wasn't necessary but I removed one of the grooves that I didn't need. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=horsepower%20per%20v%20belt&source=web&cd=8&ved=0CFMQFjAH&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hitekbalancing.com%2Fblog%2F2011%2F02%2F23%2Fover-sizing-v-belt-drives-a-big-mistake-that-can-cost-you-time-money%2F&ei=bUDzUcOkBIrEiwK1-IDIBw&usg=AFQjCNE9-UGhonNgvvBwzKyZcC02SOmvGQ&cad=rja

This is true but in the case of my 25 re build I wanted to slow it down which the larger pulley helped to accomplish. If it had had a rear mounted clutch with a larger diameter bull wheel I would have gladly not gone to all that trouble. Btw, don't get bother putting a 2-3 groove pulley on the thing unless the horsepower requires it. For a 25 one belt will do just fine. If you do use a 2 groove, use A belts. Two B's would put undue strain on your motor bearings.

I dunno, when I blew it up it looks like there's welds holding it together....The pic is clearer at the link.

Just wondering if this thing is for real, that is, was it made from forged steel elements or is it just some crud they use for movie sets? It would have been a fun project and I bet the $$$ was good if it were forged and fabbed..... B) http://www.wired.com/underwire/2013/07/real-iron-throne-hbo-martin/

The one decraven posted looks like a very robust machine and I would like to build one of those....I was following this guy's progress reguarding plans he was going to offer but ran out of patience........ I crusing ebay and saw (sorry can't link) :rolleyes: these units for sale at a starting bid of $750 w/o motor which ain't bad...(google: ted g belt grinder)....http://www.google.com/search?q=ted+g+belt+grinder&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=JM_dUerUKafDigKe8IC4Bw&ved=0CEIQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=830 Since I'll be starting a job soon where fabbing a sander and then getting to work isn't an option I'm seriously considering on of these....