Dustin Quade

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About Dustin Quade

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/12/1987

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada.
  1. 52100 Bearing Steel Knife

    Thats totally fair, I only didnt ask ask for critique specifically because its my expierience that just posting on this site pretty much garuntees some critque anyways I think I will work on your suggestions in an attempt to salvage the knife, no need to toss it aside just yet.
  2. 52100 Bearing Steel Knife

    Thanks for the heads up, i did not know that but I did do a spark test and a harden/break test as well before working with it. Always better to be safe than to spend hours working on a piece of mild steel Thanks very much for saying so
  3. 52100 Bearing Steel Knife

    So a friend of mine gave me a whole bunch of truck bearing raceway steel for me to use in my smithing. I had done some research on the steel and was excited to give a proper knife a try. The main issue I had is that I’m used to working from flat stock which making a knife blade out of it is not too bad in terms of hard hammering. This stuff though comes in this weird profile which all needs to be flattened out first before you can really start the knife shaping process. I have also been working damascus mostly lately and don’t usually forge down the bevels on those so I don’t mess up the pattern which meant I was a bit out of practice. So after getting the stock down to about a rectangular section i started forming the blade shape handle and forging in the bevels. This was the first knife I tried with a handle that has a finger groove for the index finger, my handles are also usually a bit on the small side so I made sure this one would have a nice long handle and to my credit at least I got those parts done. Then it went to the grinder and made a personal mistake, see I had left the blade pretty rough from all the hammering and so I figured I would use a convex grind to get out all my rough work and knew it would leave me a nice edge for chopping which it did, however I just hate the look of it, can’t really say why but I just can’t stand it. I usually do a flat grind and I wish I had just gone with the norm here. What I had not thought of was that the convex grind basically turns the blade surface into a big arc, that meant putting my mark in was also annoying since there wasn’t a proper flat surface for me to rest it on. Over all this knife is the worst I have made in a long long time and something I can’t even sell because it’s just an embarrassment but what I will say is that the steel itself held up remarkably well. After it was all made I wanted to test the steel and so I got the edge shave sharp then chopped a 2x4 in half and the edge still shaved so I guess at least that was a win. The blade is also nice and true for straight which is another win.
  4. First Knife With Mark

    It is shorter than the handle of my store bought chefs knife and is about the length of a steak knife handle but the bulge of this handle fits comfortably in the hand without passing through it so it just felt good to me. I guess someone with larger hands would not find it as comfortable though. I could have simply flattened the bulge for more length but i like the way this shape feels.
  5. Integral bowie with autumn leaves cast into the handle window

    My god man the creativity of your handles never ever ceases to amaze me. What a cool idea!
  6. First Knife With Mark

    So this weekend i have a meet with my local smithing group and I wanted to try to sell some damascus billets. I figured a good way to drum up the sales would be to bring some example billets but also some samples of things made with them. To that end i am bringing some other projects and this knife. Since it is a blade i will likely sell after the meet i felt it was a good opportunity to use my new makers mark. I still need some practice stamping however, I was afraid of damaging the stamp so i just wasnt hitting it hard enough. I know that is silly but thats the truth of it. I have since put it on 3 other projects (herb chopper, bottle opener and small pocket knife) with much better effect, the top here didnt sink deep enough and dissappeard in the grind and polish. Im still happy with the blade over all though. I find that since i got my 800 grit belt that my patterns are coming out clearer after the etch.
  7. lizard card holder

    I love these sorts of projects! Well done.
  8. Touchmark/Makers Mark stamps?

    So my shop is called King's Valley Forge and a good friend of mine made me up a really great logo. So after a couple years of project making i finally set aside enough money to have my own touch mark made. I converted the non text portion of the logo into a shaded image and had that turned into the stamp. Below is a picture of the stamp and of a piece stamped with it. Super excited to put this to work and finally mark the projects i have worked on and am proud of.
  9. RR Spike Axe - Forge Weld Question

    Oh man i actually did not preheat the anvil. My teacher had told me to do that when I work in the winter and i totally spaced on it. I will definitly make sure to do that tonight.
  10. RR Spike Axe - Forge Weld Question

    So your saying that if i am running a reducing forge the joint will have some scale because i took it out an exposed it to air but its an ammount that can still allow for a forge weld to take, but if im running an oxydzing forge i will have too much scale in that joint to make the forge weld possible now?
  11. RR Spike Axe - Forge Weld Question

    Well this is the first time i have had an issue with a forge weld like this. I dont know what forge i have and i would hate to have a part of my knowlege base be pernicious I found an old post about these differences between these two forges. And it looks like there is a way to try and figure it out, Frosy posted this "It's been discussed repeatedly scale WILL form on hot steel in open air. PERIOD. A forge with a neutral or reducing atmosphere: gas, coal, charcoal, electric, etc. can NOT form scale there is NO oxygen to oxidize anything. To check, shine up a thin piece of steel and put it in your forge hot and running. If the surface appears clean till it's the same temperature as the forge it is NOT scaling up." But i do have a question. In that post Iis is said that no matter what forge you have scale forms on metal when the piece meets oxygen. So if thats the case then there is scale in that joint whether i have an oxydizing or reducing forge since its in the air now and has been since last night, so doesnt that mean that the joint on my project is scaled up making that forge weld much more difficult no matter what type of forge im running and the question about what forge type i have will only come into play in future projects right?
  12. RR Spike Axe - Forge Weld Question

    Lol i always "Try to use superb technique" im just not that good at it sometimes. Is my forge running oxidizing what? The main thing is that there is at least a shot at getting the weld to work so that is what i will attempt to get done tonight.
  13. So this is my second attempt at one of these RR Spike axes. I paid attention to the comments from my first one and have gotten to this stage. I upset the spike which gave me a lump of mass to use at the end for joining my 52100 steel bit into the spike. The upsetting also gave me a bit more material around where I wanted the eye. I moved the eye to the back near the head of the spike. So punching and drifting the eye with this style of axe was much more difficult than my first attempt. Because of its location it was hard to get it over my hardy hole for the punching through. My hardy hole is fairly large so as I punched through the whole piece would buckle into the hole but that meant the head would be mainly bending into the piece and jamming on my punch making the removal of it a bit of a pain. But in the end I got a hole punched and to a size I was somewhat happy with. Next I split the end of the spike which had been upset. I then selected my piece of 52100 for the main axe portion. I hammered this into place and then tacked it in place at the top and bottom so it wouldn’t slid around while I got to forge welding. Now here is the part I need advice on. So I got the one side welded up really well (pic 1) nice big pop when the weld set and everything. But as I went in to set the other side (pic 2) my propane started to run out. I did what I could and I heard a small pop when I went to set the weld on this side but I can see that at least the edge is not welded. My question is can I still weld up this other side tonight when I get my propane refilled or is this piece kyboshed now? I'm still really new to forge welding so id appreciate all comers with advice. Also the piece is obviously nowhere near finished so expect more pictures to come
  14. Herb chooper

    I actually forged one of these out this weekend myself. I used a piece for 52100 bearing steel but i have used files in the past. If you can, try to at least get the part close to the blade edge (maybe the bottom 3/4" of the piece) ground down smooth as this is used food and stuff can get stuck in the nooks and crannys of a rasp and can be annoying to clean. The top part though is awesome to keep the teeth shown for 2 reasons, first people like to see that something came from something else, it makes it a conversation piece and second the little texture there provides a nice grip suface when in use. Over all this looks excellent i must well done!
  15. What do you notice first?

    Thats a fun question. Weight of the piece and feel of the handle in the hand for a sword or a knife would be the very first things i noticed, but that i think is also common for nearly anyone not just a smith. The first knives i made were garbage and you could tell just from picking it up. It just felt wrong off in the hand to round in the hand or sharp on the corners. Then you notice all the flaws, hammer marks, non symetrical shape, a warp in the blade things like that but that examining a piece.