Dustin Quade

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About Dustin Quade

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 06/12/1987

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    Ontario, Canada.
  1. It is shorter than the handle of my store bought chefs knife and is about the length of a steak knife handle but the bulge of this handle fits comfortably in the hand without passing through it so it just felt good to me. I guess someone with larger hands would not find it as comfortable though. I could have simply flattened the bulge for more length but i like the way this shape feels.
  2. My god man the creativity of your handles never ever ceases to amaze me. What a cool idea!
  3. So this weekend i have a meet with my local smithing group and I wanted to try to sell some damascus billets. I figured a good way to drum up the sales would be to bring some example billets but also some samples of things made with them. To that end i am bringing some other projects and this knife. Since it is a blade i will likely sell after the meet i felt it was a good opportunity to use my new makers mark. I still need some practice stamping however, I was afraid of damaging the stamp so i just wasnt hitting it hard enough. I know that is silly but thats the truth of it. I have since put it on 3 other projects (herb chopper, bottle opener and small pocket knife) with much better effect, the top here didnt sink deep enough and dissappeard in the grind and polish. Im still happy with the blade over all though. I find that since i got my 800 grit belt that my patterns are coming out clearer after the etch.
  4. I love these sorts of projects! Well done.
  5. So my shop is called King's Valley Forge and a good friend of mine made me up a really great logo. So after a couple years of project making i finally set aside enough money to have my own touch mark made. I converted the non text portion of the logo into a shaded image and had that turned into the stamp. Below is a picture of the stamp and of a piece stamped with it. Super excited to put this to work and finally mark the projects i have worked on and am proud of.
  6. Oh man i actually did not preheat the anvil. My teacher had told me to do that when I work in the winter and i totally spaced on it. I will definitly make sure to do that tonight.
  7. So your saying that if i am running a reducing forge the joint will have some scale because i took it out an exposed it to air but its an ammount that can still allow for a forge weld to take, but if im running an oxydzing forge i will have too much scale in that joint to make the forge weld possible now?
  8. Well this is the first time i have had an issue with a forge weld like this. I dont know what forge i have and i would hate to have a part of my knowlege base be pernicious I found an old post about these differences between these two forges. And it looks like there is a way to try and figure it out, Frosy posted this "It's been discussed repeatedly scale WILL form on hot steel in open air. PERIOD. A forge with a neutral or reducing atmosphere: gas, coal, charcoal, electric, etc. can NOT form scale there is NO oxygen to oxidize anything. To check, shine up a thin piece of steel and put it in your forge hot and running. If the surface appears clean till it's the same temperature as the forge it is NOT scaling up." But i do have a question. In that post Iis is said that no matter what forge you have scale forms on metal when the piece meets oxygen. So if thats the case then there is scale in that joint whether i have an oxydizing or reducing forge since its in the air now and has been since last night, so doesnt that mean that the joint on my project is scaled up making that forge weld much more difficult no matter what type of forge im running and the question about what forge type i have will only come into play in future projects right?
  9. Lol i always "Try to use superb technique" im just not that good at it sometimes. Is my forge running oxidizing what? The main thing is that there is at least a shot at getting the weld to work so that is what i will attempt to get done tonight.
  10. So this is my second attempt at one of these RR Spike axes. I paid attention to the comments from my first one and have gotten to this stage. I upset the spike which gave me a lump of mass to use at the end for joining my 52100 steel bit into the spike. The upsetting also gave me a bit more material around where I wanted the eye. I moved the eye to the back near the head of the spike. So punching and drifting the eye with this style of axe was much more difficult than my first attempt. Because of its location it was hard to get it over my hardy hole for the punching through. My hardy hole is fairly large so as I punched through the whole piece would buckle into the hole but that meant the head would be mainly bending into the piece and jamming on my punch making the removal of it a bit of a pain. But in the end I got a hole punched and to a size I was somewhat happy with. Next I split the end of the spike which had been upset. I then selected my piece of 52100 for the main axe portion. I hammered this into place and then tacked it in place at the top and bottom so it wouldn’t slid around while I got to forge welding. Now here is the part I need advice on. So I got the one side welded up really well (pic 1) nice big pop when the weld set and everything. But as I went in to set the other side (pic 2) my propane started to run out. I did what I could and I heard a small pop when I went to set the weld on this side but I can see that at least the edge is not welded. My question is can I still weld up this other side tonight when I get my propane refilled or is this piece kyboshed now? I'm still really new to forge welding so id appreciate all comers with advice. Also the piece is obviously nowhere near finished so expect more pictures to come
  11. I actually forged one of these out this weekend myself. I used a piece for 52100 bearing steel but i have used files in the past. If you can, try to at least get the part close to the blade edge (maybe the bottom 3/4" of the piece) ground down smooth as this is used food and stuff can get stuck in the nooks and crannys of a rasp and can be annoying to clean. The top part though is awesome to keep the teeth shown for 2 reasons, first people like to see that something came from something else, it makes it a conversation piece and second the little texture there provides a nice grip suface when in use. Over all this looks excellent i must well done!
  12. Thats a fun question. Weight of the piece and feel of the handle in the hand for a sword or a knife would be the very first things i noticed, but that i think is also common for nearly anyone not just a smith. The first knives i made were garbage and you could tell just from picking it up. It just felt wrong off in the hand to round in the hand or sharp on the corners. Then you notice all the flaws, hammer marks, non symetrical shape, a warp in the blade things like that but that examining a piece.
  13. Thanks. That is actually really interesting. I have never done any research or anything into the shape but i had assumed this kind of shape to be more something fantasy based than history based.
  14. I know it might sound gross but have you tired your local dump / recycling center. The dumps here are fairly regimented and organized so that certain materials go certain places and don’t get all mixed up. Some of them allow you to poke around for materials. Another option would be to contact the auto wrecker and ask them (even if it seems odd) if they know of a place like you are looking for. You could also call places like Metro Scrap Metal Inc. If they dont sell to you they may know people who do. They are in a similar business to what you’re looking for and may be able to help further. We are Canadians after all famed for our helpful nature .
  15. As always i absolutely love your work. The smaller daggers especially in this batch just look exactly right to me. Its posts like this that really inspire me to just keep going and learning.