Chancellor

Oh, that's cool! I've never seen a leaf wrapped around like that before.

I love the design of it! You might want to make or buy a wooden or rawhide mallet to use for straightening, so you don't get those areas on your twists where the hammer mars the edges. My second bit of advice (if you want it), is to make the business end more of a.... deal like this. I don't know what it's called: http://www.anvilforgeblacksmithing.co.uk/images/household/kitchenitems/6.jpg It's similar to what you have now, just a bit more elegant looking. Just checked out your knives. You have some serious skill, those are awesome!

Just to make sure, I'm probably being to particular. Will this be 10pm Eastern Standard Time, or Eastern Daylight Time? Same time slot as the Blue Prints are presended, Just on Wednesday rather than Tuesday

Not practical at all, I just thought that it was pretty cool. Friction welding, thanks; that does describe it better than either name that I gave.

Thought yall might like this. Brilliant way to make a forge weld. Could you still call it a forge weld? Or would it simply be a thermal weld?

Temper has its origin in the old english word Temprian, with the meaning "to modify some excessive quality; to restrain within due limits" Temprian comes from the Latin word Temperare, which means "To mix correctly, moderate, regulate, blend" Sorry. I've just got an arguing problem :P

Did you ever get these knives finished? Would love to see the end result!

I'm glad to hear no offense was taken, as I meant none. What you say is very true, and I have many people that I look up to that have been in the military. However, if you look at the US military as an institution, they have become lax in the standards they hold servicemen to, opting instead for a policy that belies a worldview in which people should not be held to any objective standards. I believe this is a sign of the society as a whole, as the same can be said of civilians as well. I believe, however, that the military should hold themselves to a higher standard of excellence in conduct, behaviour, and integrity both personally through conviction, as well as officially through regulations. Again, I mean no slight to any who has served in our military, a sacrifice for which I am forever thankful. Neither am I slamming the military as so many wrongly do.

Thats hilarious, and would probably work. For the price though, it might not be worth ruining what I would think is a rare piece of interesting equipment. I have seen tons of rivet forges, but in the couple of years of looking, only one bbq grill like that.

yessir, I'm working on trying to get Mr. Brazeal's "one heat tong blank" forged out. I've got the first one done, but can't get any subsequent blanks done right.

thanks leadchunker, I'll be sure to take a look at them

Oh, sorry for the misunderstanding. It was round stock. I think it might still be a good price though, right?

Just got back from the steel yard I found. 20ft of new 3/4in A36 with three cuts for $24. Onlinemetals has 3/4in A36 for $24 for 8ft not including shipping. How does this price line up with what you get your steel for, Mr. Powers?

Wow, good find! And thanks for the info about the off-size and rusty stock, that'll come in handy.

Mr. Powers, I was thinking all around. Maybe somewhere I could find 1018, 4140, A36; the whole gamut, including tool steels. Everywhere I've been has either only carried angle or pipe, doesn't sell their steel (welding/machine shops), or are closed down. Mr. Hammer, I've tried to use the Yellow Pages website before, but haven't had any luck. Making a couple of calls from there today, however, landed me a pretty good A36 supplier. Thanks for the reminder, and sorry for not doing the footwork myself before asking the question.

Hello, just wondering if anyone knew of any steel suppliers in North Texas around the Dallas area?

Thanks for the Idea. I learned the downside of a crown on the centerline yesterday, when trying to punch and drift a hammer eye. Kept rolling off!

Here are some pictures. Also, there is a hollow near the front, and towards the rear there is a high spot that runs down the centerline. Thanks for all the advice, sorry it has taken me so long to get back with more info.

bigcity, yours was the mousehole, right? Fiery, thanks for the advice. I'll try looking up how to do it proper-like. From what I hear, a flapper-disk is the right way to do it?

Are the faces of mousehole anvils thick enough to be able to do that without worrying about going too thin?

Interesting, they're working for me.. Let me try just posting links: http://s13.postimage.org/ho2hc8knp/MG_0778.jpg http://s13.postimage.org/wy2cjfg5x/MG_0779.jpg http://s13.postimage.org/hgjftgz2t/MG_0782.jpg http://s13.postimage.org/ildhyuljp/MG_0784.jpg

Sorry for not posting pictures, I thought about it right before I posted, but its been storming heavily today and I haven't had a chance to take some. I will tomorrow. Thanks for all the information. I didn't know so much could be done to prevent cracking, and learned a lot about repairing and prevention. Even learned a bit about anvil production.

My 1830's-1850's mousehole anvil's faceplate cracked yesterday. The crack is small and in the middle of the faceplate. It doesn't extend to the edges, and runs about an inch and a half straight across the face, and looks like it slants down shallowly towards the horn. What are the chances the crack propagates? I'm worried that it is near inevitable. I really like this anvil, and paid way too much for it ($700 for a 150lb anvil). What measures can I take to protect against the crack spreading and loosing part of my faceplate? Any way to repair it?

Mr. Kring, Sorry it has taken me so long to thank you for your advice. I'll definitely look into the other smiths you recommended, and hope to be able to take your summer course. If I may ask, in the case I take an introductiory course under one of the three smiths you mentioned, would I be able to take your intermediate course in the summer? Thanks again