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I Forge Iron


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About Daryl

  • Rank
    Senior Member


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  • Biography
    Journeyman Heavy Duty Equipment, Journeyman Agricultural Mechanic
  • Interests
    blacksmithing, gravecrosses
  • Occupation
    Blacksmith / Mechanic

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  1. Being an Ag-mechanic I am familiar with your problem. I have bad news... if the knotter is worn out (and yes they are supposed to eventually wear out so the next, more expensive piece doesn't) then you will have to cowb oy up and but new. An old baler will have the same worn out parts as yours. Follow your manual closely and and pay attention to the timing on the baler, particulalry the stuffer. Yours should have timing marks scribed on the critical parts to help you. Good luck
  2. On the subject of the quenching medium one will use, the number one most important thing to remember is consistency - do not not use one kind of oil this time and something else the next, you will not be familiar with either. Number two : Do not use old motor oil as it contains high amounts of sulphur - very bad for you. Number three: understand what is going on with your quenching medium when immersing hot metal into it. There are several stages of cooling when immersing hot metal - in our case it will normally be steel or iron. First is the rapid cooling stage - this is when the hot ste
  3. Unicorn has it right, add more coal to bring the 'ball' higher up from the tuyre. If you are worried about coal consumption, cut two sections of railway iron to help crop in the sides of the fire. Place them sideways such that the flat bottom will be just off the vertical angle, this will narrow the amount of coal on the sides, yet allow the fire to be deep.
  4. Any cast anvil, regardless of make, that has survived any appreciable number of years of use, is a good anvil. Because the quality of castings can vary even within the same pour, I would welcome any anvil that is in good shape and is older. I actually had a new anvil crumble below my strikes while doing a demonstration at a high school, the 100+ year old Arm & Hammer that I used right after still has clean edges!
  5. There is no greater honour to a Blacksmith than to create a tribute to someone's life in iron. The cross is beautiful.
  6. Preparing to forge weld using O/A torch would be the same as baking a cake with a bic lighter. Maybe it can be done - but it sure would be difficult.
  7. Check out Manufacturers' Health & Safety Association
  8. My family and I are thinking of you.
  9. Unless you wish to kill yourself, don't even consider going there. The precious metals used in catalytic converters are catalysts, as the name implies. The noxious chemicals and elements expelled from the combustion engine bond with those same precious elements. These elements and chemicals start off with hydrogen sulfide (mix with water and make sulfuric acid in small amounts) and get worse from there on. I work with diesel engines which are now equipped with DPF (diesel particulate filter) systems. The warnings with those alone tell you to wash your hands immediately if you touch t
  10. My anvil (having two horns) is placed such that the position of the hardy hole is closest to the hand that holds my tongs - away from my hammer hand and lessening the risk of injury when cycling from the anvil to the cut-off hardy when it is placed in the hardy hole. This also puts the upsetting block toward me and the preanvil at the far side of my manvil face.
  11. While I have not forged brass successfully, I have however, forged silicon bronze with excellent results. To those who have not forged bronze, there is a narrow range of malleability. Note than when founding (melting) brass has a higher tendency to want to separate without sufficient flux than does bronze. A common mistake is to constantly try different materials, including exotic and expensive metals. My suggestion is to first get good at the basics: forging techniques, hammering, fire, planning, etc. before wasting time and money on metals other than basic iron. Some of the really
  12. Ingersoll-Rand. The best at any price low or high. Low air consumption per revolution, long lasting (always keep all air tools oiled), and simply can not be beat (no apologies to any other maker). I also work at a heavy truck dealership where the I-R tools easily beat out all competitors in performance. Best of all, they also are not the most expensive. Win-win.
  13. Where do you live? If you are near an agricultural area, consider looking for grain auger pipe. They come in sizes ranging from five inch diameter up to over fourteen. You can put one inside ther other for insulating purposes. The pipe also varies in gauge thickness - so a cautionary note on how heavy it may get for long lengths is needed as well as a suitable means of supporting it. I currently have an eighteen foot long length of eleven inch diameter three-sixteenth wall (or so) - salvage from someone else's misfortune while the auger was in transport.
  14. I side with Rich Hale and fionnbharr, and then some. Too many times I see newcomers to this Craft, and look in wonder and amazement at the enthusiasm and creativity, and loathe the more often than not, complete lack of dedication. Anything worth learning takes time and patience, Blacksmithing is no exception. Surely, power hammers, dies and what-not will add to the ease of certain tasks; yet they do NOT, ever, EVER qualify as experience and wisdom at the anvil. I hammer very long and very hard. I do not have problems with my shoulders, arms, hands or back. I was fortunate to h
  15. I have two smaller swage blocks of differing design as well as a 24" tall cone. All sit idly until I do some production work, then I simply can not do without them. All are small enough they can still be carried (slowly) across the shop when I set up stations, though they are big enough they don't move around much. Made stands for them all, got them somewhere............
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