The other night we needed to make a rivet for a pair of tongs. I took out the calipers and measured the stock. Took it over to the drill press and worked it down till the tip was a hair bigger. Punched a perfect disc on the first try and the rivet slid right in.
I make the punch a hair bigger because rivets shafts swell a little bit when you put the second head on.
If the tongs seize up heat the head to a dull red and gently wiggle it free.
I take very thick allen wrenches.
Cut off the L at the end
Clamp it in my drill press
Turn on the the drill press
Fire up the flap disk on the angle grinder
make sure the drill press and the angle grinder are going against each other.
about 2 - 5 minutes later I have a nice custom flat punch
If I am carefull I don't even need to heat treat it
A year ago some sparks off charcoal set the cotton cord for my apron in my armpit on fire.
The apron and the grommet kept the flaming knot at bay but it was in a place I literally could not reach to smother.
You'd think asking the guy next to you to put your armpit out would not be an involved conversation.
leaning over in an arc so the flames didn't spread I had to explain that I needed him to scoop some water with his hands and splash the fire.
my wife who saw this from a distance laughed but was amazed that it took three tries to get the guy to put me out. (stop drop and roll was next on the list but that would mean standing arround all day drenched in mud)
Needless to say my apron now has leather straps.
If they have an actuary table for it they can insure it.
try contacting Lloyds of London.
They insure a buddy of mine's house whose armoring shop is smaller than my kitchen and chock full of welding gear and a gas forge.
They might.
That photo was from Intracoastal Iron they are great guys.
It's flat rectangle of steel, an I beam, another flat rectange
they took some 2x12 or 2x8 and made a slot for the swage but they made sure the swage could be laid out across the slot to work on the large faces of the swage.
I should have taken a photo but I assume they screwed/lagbolted the wood to the metal rectangle at the top of the I beam.
F & G Distributing
ask for one of the 0-30 fisher style red regulators
have them get you the piece that goes into the tank
a 0-30 psi gague
and the piece that lets you hook the hose up
Really nice lady runs the place and I think they ship.
I have bought over 20 regulators from them over the years with no problems with proper use. (always turn off the gas at the regulator or you can damage the diaphragm when you turn it back on)
I mail ordered the first five off ebay and realized they were local to me.
thor's hammer beer openers. (old friends want another batch of beer openers)
Make new boxes for tool transport for demos. I will fill any box I build so I want them not as long as the military cases I work out of.
See if I can finish up my plans for a two layer trestle table tool and stock stand for demos on the road.
modify my work boxes so I can mount my chisels to the underside of the lid and have a small flip out hammer and file rack come off the front
I was at the Metalsmything Symposium III and I was demoing the first ever ammo can forge. I had just started the forge and set the grill lighter down on the table near the forge.
While I was teaching how to do an S hook the lighter detonated behind me in a huge ball of fire... or so they tell me. I never noticed. I just kept on teaching.
I get ribbed about that to this day.
I think you are asking the wrong question.
You are asking if there is a colonial pattern hammer.
The question should be what do colonial era hammers look like.
Based on the specialties and specific jobs they had a range of hammers.
Since the colonies were being colonized the origin of the colony/colonist can make a difference also.
that being said.
here are some williamsburg and monticello photos
williamsburg silversmith shop (some great hammer photos) Williamsburg Silversmith - a set on Flickr
Probably what you are really looking for is in these 2 photos
Williamsburg blacksmith shop (not so great on hammers it was honeymoon and my wife and I had a deal about not spending all day at the blacksmith shop) Williamsburg Blacksmith - a set on Flickr
Monticello early american nail heading setup and clockjack pictures Monticello 2008 - a set on Flickr
WWW.FORGEMONKEYS.COM
easy to build and gets to welding heat very portable
for a farrier I'd do the modification a friend of mine did and made it out of an old muffler.
I get mine from ellis knife works 40$
My regulator costs under 20$ from The Gas Company of North Carolina
cheap and almost no tuning. Burners and Components - Ellis Custom Knifeworks
Took under 30 minutes to get it running well from kit to forge.
including reglator, gague, and hoses I come in at arround 80$
-Solvarr