solvarr

I was told that a yard torch is balanced for a reducing flame. It wants to heat, dry, and then start the combustion of the material. Also yard torches burn an obscene amount of gas when compared to a forge burner which is why many of them have an "idle mode" and a blast trigger.

I didn't know the kit was 40$ !!! between car gas and my time driving arround to get parts It's a savings. All of those parts cost over 30 dollars from my local stores. I think from here on out I'll tell people to go buy a kit and we'll assemble it when we make the ammo can forge body. The cost of the ammo can forge would still be under 120$

As long as you don't quench the top they should do fine. the fancy top isn't really necessary but if they break it's easy to rework them all of mine look like jas townsend stakes except I make the hooked end fold over a little more. The extra hook is to accomodate the tent stake puller and make it hold the rope better Tying a small loop of tough cord through the nylon/canvas loops on the tent and staking to that will greatly extend the life of your loops.

I'll be there and so will my wife. Drogo doesn't have anything scheduled that day but you never know what'll pop up. Peyton told me about the demo plan.... wow... that'll be an amazing day.

I remembered reading that years ago. Thanks for the verification.

id of the kaowool

Some people use pipe, some use boxes, I know a guy who uses old mufflers 1)make sure the burner is roughly center is a multiburner space em out evenly 2) Sizing is mostly about internal volume 350 cubic inches per Ron Reil burner is a good idea 3)Many people offset the burner to get a spiralling gas pattern in the forge others don't and put it up the center. 4)that bend you see in many burners NC TOOL CO reduces the chimney effect where it drafts hot gasses when you turn it off, mixes the gas better, looks cool, helps it fir in a smaller shipping box, prevents magic fairies from spoiling your forge, and a bunch of other things that make partial sense. I didn't bother with it. 5)The size of the ammo can I put on forgemonkeys.com is because with the kaowool the width of that box is one firebrick plus kaowool wide which is enough for 95% of what I do. I liked that width also because kaowool would span the dome of the forge and I would not need to do anything fancy. Once you go beyond a certain size you have to do accordion folds with the kaowool like in the roof of a glass glory hole or it will fall in. 6)Many people swear by having a back door on the forge they can close. I use an extra brick an place it against the back. Once I get my oxyacetylene set back I'll probably make something more entertaining. 7) Buy a push button starting blowtorch to start your forge it's better than grill lighters or matches. 8)The perfect size is what fits your work.

i don't know if it's a saw. They call it a fat 50 can. A little wider than a normal 50mm. I get my regulators from F & G Distributing . Their regulators are very nicely priced. I won an auction on ebay and found out they were local.

I have let the website sit for too long. Thanks for reminding me to get the overhaul going. thanks Solvarr www.forgemonkeys.com

I couldn't agree more I enjoyed doing business with him. I have used several types of refractory mortar. None have been nearly as nice as satanite. Goes on smoothe and easy. A half pint of itc100 5 pounds of satanite (guess) 2 linear feet of inswool 1 and 1/3 1" Thick Hard Fire Brick: And you can line an ammo can.

Hey there. You probably saw my friend Drogo (Chris Dietz) with one. He's up in that area and does renfaires and craft fairs. The ammo can forge is something I came up with four years ago after being frustrated about how almost all the plans online needed a fairly intensive workshop to be made. I boiled it down to a jigsaw and a drill. (hacksaw and snips are optional) I remembered that arround 350 cubic inches was good for ONE ron reil burner. 5x6x11 inner volume of this forge = 330 cubic inches You take 1 & 1/3 fire brick for the floor Cut a small door in the back and a larger door in the front But the bolt feet on if you want em. wrap the kaowool all the way around one loop under the brick(this is 2 square feet of kaowool) Add a bit more kaowool to protect the back wall. Fill in the space under the lid. Mount a pipe flange to the lid (I use a little kaowool as a gasket) make a hole in the top of the kaowool inside that matches the pipe flange. Ram it with a layer of fireclay. Let it dry for a day or two. Put a pipe nipple that mounts the pipe flange and cut it so your burner rests 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the edge of the kaowool. Drop the burner in and fire it up. I get welding heats off one burner. Here are some pics. Every time I do a demo we lose the photos of the final lining. Ammo can forge construction ammo can forge deconstruction Please feel free to ask me questions