solvarr

SNORT!! Ecart., I read that and sauerkraut almost shot out my nose. I agree about the grumpy guys. It's been a bit of a running joke with my wife and I to not be a "Grumpy Blacksmith " .

I like the IFI photoshoot. -S

Very nicely done demo you guys have allot to be proud of. A gentleman was making an S hook with a "wave" element in the middle which seemed a fun way to dress up a very simple item. You have a friendly bunch of guys who we re very cordial to my wife when she went in to look at the ironwork while I watched the demo. I hope to make it to some of your meetings this year.

I was just referencing what I saw in the Knifemaking Unplugged video for annealing silver. Seemed cheaper than using map gas. Knifemaking Video DVD Yes you work bronze cold. But without a decent annealing every now and then the modern silica bronze I've played with work hardens fairly fast. I agree about getting dies to punch them out. The last time I saw scale armor made out of stainless the maker cut every piece on a shear and cleaned it up on a belt sander and buffer. As a side note. I went and checked the source photo. They say the armor is leather. HBO: Rome - Artifacts - Gaius Octavian here's an old link talking about courbouilli Cariadoc's Miscellany: The Perfect Armor

800 degrees? In the knifemaking unplugged video they place a piece of steel across their charcoal forge and use that to anneal some silver. Silver anneals arround 1400 degrees F. You might be able to use the same trick not bother with the forced air and save some map gas. It would be cheap to try and could allow for more of a continuous process than torch annealing.

I have a few more photos I want to take before I submit the blue print and I am taking them this weekend when I assemble one of these at the YesterYear Hammer In. (as long as I don't botch ammo can cutout tomorrow ) As a side note. Since I always have a bit of clay and kaowool left over. The first 2 people to post a reply here and bring a bean can for a bean can forge ready to go I'll line it for them as part of the demo at the YesterYear Hammer In. I would prefer if you have the port for the torch pre drilled and I recommend a couple of bolts as feet to keep it from rolling but that is optional. The bean can should be a coffee can or any of the larger soup cans. -Solvarr

I have an ammo can forge I designed. We've built arround 40 of these and they work really well. solvarr's slideshow on Flickr one 1/3 fire brik splits in the bottom a wrap of kaowool and some clay and you are good to go. we'll be adding more photos soon to fill in the gaps.

NIce. It looks like you got yourself a really fair deal. The blower probably needs a flap over the intake to choke the air for fine adjustments. It's just a piece of metal bolted in one corner you can use to fine tune the air blast. If it ends up being a dead soft anvil try this link. http://www.cvbg.org/tips/anvilrepair699.PDF happy hammering.

I play SCA and I go by Solvarr Hammarsson. Solvarr was the only norse name my friends didn't laugh at right off the bat. (they had been calling me Xavier for years and I wanted to change my focus) Also my wife and I help run a Japanese Culture festival every year where everyone still calls me Xav so a third name comes in handy for knowing what a phone call is for.

As long as the anvil has a little life left in it you should be fine. Here is a page on testing an anvil which I have used in the past with good results. link removed at the request of anvilfire If you don't buy it let me know. I have a few buddies up your way who might be interested. A new rivet forge without the blower goes for 125-350+ depending on the maker and the tuyere. I'd confirm that there is a decent blast of air coming out the tuyere and ask him how he started his fires. Happy hammering. -Solvarr

I know that in later periods they would predrill the hole for a nail using a gimlet or a small auger. less chance of splitting Gimlet (tool) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I hope to get out to see you guys at the state fair again this year. Unfortunately I have a workshop I am running the first weekend and I am going to Yesteryear forge hammer in the second weekend. Are there any central NC groups? Whenever I look at the NCABANA schedule it seems like they only meet quarterly. -Solvarr (another wake county smith)

Please remember that Kaowool is dissolved by borax fluxing. A good layer of fireclay tends to take care of that. I tent to really like satanite brand fire clay but will use vulcanite brand castable if I have to. -Solvarr I am working on getting the last photos for a blueprint on how to make a forge out of an ammo can. The issue I have with many designs is that you need a full shop to build the forge. I kinda boiled it down to basics We have had great results with this Ammo Can Forge Construction Ammo Can Forge Construction - a photoset on Flickr Ammo Can Forge Decontruction (we tore apart the first one after 2.5 years of abuse to see how it was holding up) Ammo Can Forge Deconstruction - a photoset on Flickr

Great demo! This was a great day and my 3 newcomers are already making plans to come to the hammer in. Thanks again for hosting this. During the demo I asked Doug if he had tried an Appalachian style power hammer which got some laughs. I understand the humor but it's a DIY helve style power hammer design The Appalachian Power Hammer Appalachian Power Hammers See you all in October. -Solvarr

Hate to be a twit. In alot of areas your home owners insurance will only insure a house that has 1/2 - 2 PSI devices in a house. Friend of mine had to go through Loyds of London to get his house insured that has an armory in the garage. You may want to look into this.