kevin1050

Thanks! Went to Abebooks and got a copy of Celtic Sword.

Both books are out of print. Have to do some more searching. Can't check ebay at work.

Thanks. I will look the books up.

Very nice blade!

Yes, they were the Stagmers. Been out to visit the shop a couple of times and I have bought some blades from them. I was able to get a experimental leaf blade from them for a great price (they were trying something new and the harmon did not come put). I just have to finish it. Hence, the question about guards.

Thanks Thomas! I have gathered some general ideas and will post pictures of the wood mockups I make for feedback. I am not looking to do anything fancy. Just didn't want my guards to look funny/weird on my blades. I contacted a local sword manufacture and they stay around 6'' for shorter blades and 8'' for their longer ones. I know some of the 2 handers had guards 12'' or so. Looks like I will be trying several different sized mockups to see what looks right for the blade. Maybe use the golden ratio? Blade width x ratio? Gonna have to try that out and see how it looks.

I am sorry. Yes I have Jim's books. I have other books as well. I was asking a general question about guards, nothing historical. When I forge I have a general idea of what I am going to make but what the final project looks like is sometimes different. I am making knifes now and am working on my skills to finish a sword. Right now I am shaping some old leaf springs into sword like objects. I will not be selling these or trying to pass them off as some kind of reproduction. They will be double edged and heavy. Until I get my distal tapering skills in line. I tend to put out ideas without fully explaining them. Just ask my wife it drives her crazy. Next time I ask a question, I will slow down and include more details. I did not intend to insult anyone. My apologies.

Why ask people that have done it before? Always good to ask people with more experience for tips! I actually expected you, Steve, to say something. And I do not expect anyone to be able read my mind. The tips I have gotten so far have been good. I will use wood for a mock up, thanks Thomas! I guess all of us new people will have to wait and gain lots of experience before posting a question or Steve will flame.

Nice looking blade!

Started life as a leaf spring. It is still a little thick so more forge time is in order.

Yes, I did think about it. Not going for a true historical repro. Just making blades from leaf springs and was looking for some general guidance. Once I finish one I will post pics.

Looking at more medieval style of blades. I have been banging away on some leaf springs. Was just looking for some general info about basic guard design.

Hello all, Any rule of thumb on length of guards? Short sword Vs long sword? 6'', 8'' or longer. Any ideas?

Last thing I want to do is buff a blade out while wearing 45-50lbs of body armor. Bad enough humping that thru Iraq.

A good Hay Budden can command a very good price in the right market. Ebay is a great place to check out what anvils are going for.

Good looking knife!

Nice looking blade!

Some people say if it is under 24'' it is still a knife. Spartan and Roman short swords were under that but were wider, usually 2'' or so at the ricasso. Tough call I guess it depends on the shape of the blade and the width. I have a couple of spring clips that I am turning swords. I am still drawing them out, so I am unsure of what the final length will be.

Thanks. I posted a reply in the other thread about using a piece of homebrew equipment to keep the tank warmer. It is a heat belt used to keep your fermenting brew warmer. It wraps around and looks pretty safe. You can get it from any homebrew shop, local or online, and costs about 25 bucks. I ordered one and will try it out. Will post results later.

I also homebrew (makes me a very popular guy) and think this might help with freezing tanks. It is a brewbelt, it keeps your fermenting brew around 70 degrees. I ordered one and will try it out on my 20lb tank. Since it is below freezing now in MD and I work in an unheated garage it might work. I will let you know how it works out. Cost around 25 bucks. What says you? Wraps around any size fermentor, plastic or glass. These heat belts used to come with no packaging or instructions. Now, the manufacturer puts it in a nice new package with instructions. On this package, there's a warning against using the belt with glass fermentors. We don't believe that this is a real issue because the belt doesn't get very hot, and because many people have been using heat belts on glass fermentors for years. But you should be aware that the manufacturer doesn't recommend use with glass fermentors - so we can't either!

Recently walked an old section of RR track at FT Meade in MD. Got half of bucket of spikes, rebar, and about 20 feet of 1/4 square that was just there. MPs even drove by and didn't give me a second glance. Might go back with a pry bar to get more spikes. Went to a local metal dealer to check out their drop/scrap bin. Got a nice haul of various stuff dirt cheep. Also am going to a local spring shop to check on drops there too. Went to a local car salvage yard and got break drums and coil springs for free. Talked up the counter guys so I will be welcome the next time I go. Make sure to bring gloves and talk to guys working the yard. They can be helpful.

Here is the link to Ampco Safety tools. They no longer carry the double peen wersion. http://ampcosafetytools.thomasnet.com/viewitems/hammers/hammer-scaling-with-fiberglass-handle?

Ampco's website says they are non Be. As this hammer is an old one it might contain Be. I think I will contact them again about the Be issue. Thanks for the info.

F me, that is what I meant. Sorry for the confusion. where is that coffee pot?

that is what the company rep told me it was made out of. Bronze/Alum mix. Ampco makes a whole line of non magnetic/non sparking tools to include dust pans... I think the person who owned it before me was flattening out copper seams or other copper work. the gentlemen did a lot of work on boats and had a nice heavy roll of copper sheeting in his old workshop. Also had a nice old drill press and bench grinder in there.