southernforge

Or these plans: http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/bender/ http://www.chopperhandbook.com/neatstuff/downloads.htm

You can also find various bender blueprints on the Internet such as: http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/bender-plans.pdf

Looks like a piece of a combination anvil-vise similar to a "C.E.SHIELDS BLACKSMITH VISE ANVIL COMBO 27lbs.Patd.1912" as found on EBay at: http://cgi.ebay.com/C-E-SHIELDS-BLACKSMITH-VISE-ANVIL-COMBO-27lbs-Patd-1912-/280567527837?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415320b99d .... not recommended as a purchase.

Some ironwork made during the Arts and Crafts Period is identifiable by short-cuts that were typically taken during that time period. If you turn the item over and see jagged edges around holes that were punched through and at the same time see it as a reasonably well made item that the maker did not spend the extra few seconds straightening elements, and the metal is possibly not anywhere near the minimum to make the object, and the item looks Colonial in style, then according to what I was shown you have a set of clues strongly indicating that it is likely a reproduction that was made during the Arts and Crafts Period. Many years ago a smith gave me a tour of items that were on display at an Early Ironwork Conference that had been identified by experts as real Colonial iron. When turned over, those iron pieces fell distinctly into two categories. One category was items with jagged edges on the back of punched holes, nice Colonial design and execution, but without that last 15 seconds or so of straightening. The second category were Colonial style items of nice design, minimal iron used, nice finished holes on the back, and someone had taken that final few seconds to eyeball the piece and align it so that it was straight. Even to my then uneducated eye those items fell into two distinct categories. I don't understand what you mean by . My humble understanding is that if an object looks like it was "beat with a hammer" i.e. intentionally banged up and dented, then it is a modern reproduction. Original old ironwork (especially pre-Industrial Revolution high end decorative objects) that was taken care of and properly preserved should look well-made and if that item made for the upper end of the market should not have any visible hammer marks. Some modern makers will leave some hammer marks so that customers can see that the item was handmade. Some other makers will take items that were machine-made and bang up with hammers to try to make the items look to the untrained eye as if it was made by a smith. Still other makers will cast or use machines to punch-out items ready-made with dents for hardware store chains. Hammer marks are more likely than not to indicate that the item is a reproduction.

As with any other category of antique, to identify age and authenticity requires an educated mind and an educated eye. Certain characteristics/shortcuts/sloppiness of how iron reproductions were made during the Arts and Crafts period will indicate some items that were possibly or likely made during that period. Higher levels of carbon are more prevalent on items made after the 1970s when the availability of puddled wrought iron became very limited. The amount and thickness of iron also helps rule out certain time periods, as the amount and thickness of iron tended to be reflected by the cost and rarity of iron in the time and location of its making. Colonial period iron was expensive and used sparingly. The overabundance of wide and thick iron used in an item is more likely positively correlated with the later in time that an item was produced. The heavy use of iron in an object combined with design elements and/or function not usually associated with a time period would strongly indicate for someone to look for evidence of possible manufacture during the Arts and Crafts Period or even later. Some items can have time periods ruled out, and some items can have probable time periods identified, but a modern smith can reforge old recycled period iron using period correct techniques and apply physical details that are likely to fool experts. In my humble opinion a number of items in your photograph either are made of significantly heavy iron or have design elements that I have never seen in reference books.

I could be wrong, but it looks to me that if you take the bend out of the leg, then the bottom of the leg will will no longer support the vise in such a way that the jaws are level. The bend may have been deliberate for that purpose.

I would suggest looking at: http://www.rmjforge.com/eagle_talon.htm . He has a very well made tactical tomahawk and includes specifications and a measured drawing: http://www.rmjforge.com/talon_specifications.htm I would humbly also suggest carefully reading his description of his thoughts and concepts behind the design and engineering issues. Note: The below image is displayed directly from its location on the eagle_talon web site.

Had a blade come apart while spinning after straightening. Don't try it.

Apply linseed oil to stabilize old wood.

I am sorry to hear that you died. When is the auction?

Or maybe the April Fool joke is really the April Fool joke and the sale is then real.

Try Heinz or other brand of ketchup to clean copper.

What if smiths on other planets were specifically bred to have extremely hard and thick skulls so that they could then use their skulls as anvils?

Do you have an affordable source to recommend for a 22.5" by 88" sheet of 24 gauge copper?

I figure what you are asking for as good match to your question is go to WalMart and get a can of Hammered Finish spay paint.

Yes that sounds fine.

I guess they could always separate the panels and sell it one panel at a time to collectors.

Members of toddling community probably shoundn't be on those stairs by themselves in the first place.

After the axe is used, peace ensues.

Or offer it for adoption on local Freecycle group: One person's trash is another's treasure. http://www.freecycle.org/group/US/California/Grass%20Valley

I couldnt help but notice that the dies aren't above the top of the side pieces. Isnt that a problem in using it?

Did y'all try using an axe on those beams?

Like them old jar stands real good!

Pace Picante Sauce 10 3/4 oz. can tomato puree 2 tbls. white vinegar 1/3 cups onion, chopped fine 3 jalapeno peppers, chopped fine 1/2 teas. salt 1/2 teas. dried minced garlic 1 1/4 cup water|Mix all ingredients together and place in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, and then simmer until the desired thickness is achieved. The amount of jalapenos can be altered to your taste. from http://www.recipetrove.com/component/option,com_mtree/task,viewlink/link_id,938/Itemid,26/

Who es Jay Sharp?