petersenj20

Alright, here are my measurements for the final hole size: W-.100 L-.150 R-.025 This comes out to a circumference of .4571. This calls for a #27 drill. Much bigger than what I was using. Closest I could get at the tool store is a 9/64 drill bit. I will make one up and report back.

Hence the reason for my post on iforge. I know my weaknesses and strengths. Thanks for the help tonight.

I hate chat. I usually spend upwards of an hour composing my thoughts. (and I still miss some) However, I don't think it matters if i'm making 100 or 1. Buying retail is not a fair answer on this site. I actually want to trade these. (Only took 45 minutes:)

Thanks so much for the help. Chatroom was wrought with salesmen:) The most important part is the indexing of the tool. I was too focused on the sample tool. I used a formula for an elipse and as you said, not exactly what I was trying to make. If I use a stud for the index, then repeatability is built-in. Was going to thread and solder since there will be a lot of impact. Will be using mild steel for the base and tool steel for the cutting. I dont know if these weld together properly for long use. I have never researched this joinery.

Doesn't have to be 5 holes but needs to be at least two for indexing perfectly. Make it five and you strike twice on a watch band and production speeds up. I guess what I really am looking for is a relationship between round drill hole size and elipse size, so a drift can be driven through and reshape exact every time. I don't know the math to figure. Maybe just a bit of trial and error. but I dont want to waste a bunch of stock and time in the process.

I have been trying to find a project I saw somewhere a long time ago for a spill plane. Cool stuff.

I am trying to make this style of punch for making leather watch straps. I'm going to use 1/2" square stock as the punch base, drill, tap and solder to accept the five individual punches and allow for the punched divots to fall out. For the punches I have used 1/4" O1 drill rod, center drilled with a #36 drill, and tapered and sharpen the end on a lathe. I made a drift punch to drive into the end to do the shaping. This is not very reliable as it sometimes destroys the metal and tears at the taper. I harden after shaping the hole. Is there a better way? I was thinking of a drift punch that would drive all the way through, but maybe the hole will need to be a bit bigger? I haven't figured out how to calculate hole size and this may be cause for the tear-out if I am using a punch too big for the hole.

April 10th and 11th in Americus, GA. I don't have all the details but a couple of us are planning on going.

Well, I just got a bike last summer (and its a baby) but you can count me in for a half-a-week or so. Depending on the route and how far it goes. I am in Douglasville. No reason to wait that long for a get together. I know there is a hammer-in south Georgia in April. Would be a good ride maybe. Maybe.

Wow. Looking back, these really are crappy pictures! I have welded strike buttons to the top of the die. Works fine. I got the same idea from someone on this site. Sorry I can't give props. Snowed in today. I'm gonna try to get a couple more dies made.

I snapped a couple pics. Sorry for the quality but what can ya do? I want to make a V groove die for tong jaws, and a length wise fuller for knife "blood groove" fullers. I used the 3/4" fullers last night to draw the reins on a set of tongs I have been working on. It worked nicely except for the strike button weld broke. I have a better idea to fix. The side cutter will be a life saver. I cut 3/4" square in one heat and was still at forging temp. Better than having to quench and take to the bandsaw and start over.

After seeing KYBOY's guillotine tool I decided it was time to make one. I have no hardy tools and figured a guillotine would work well. Along with the frame I have made the following dies: Top and bottom side cut Top and bottom 3/4" fuller Top and bottom 1/4" fuller Lower flat anvil to use with the 3/4" fuller specifically for making tong hinge transitions I tried all but the flat and fuller together. They worked fine except I need to weld the strike pins better. Plus my son can do the grunt work for me. I would like to see what dies people have made for theirs. I have a couple ideas for more, but would like help. I have seen a few on the site, but not a whole bunch.

True on all accounts accept they are 1095 carbon steel. Knew I read it somewhere. Here These are up to about $75 new around here.

The only leaf I have made was as you say, long and weepy. We had a hammer-in demo where he started with 1/2" square and drew a point but did not flatten much. He left the point alone and worked on the base of the leaf. Only part I can figure being key. Hammer-in video http://www.youtube.com/user/purgatoryironworks#p/u/6/CS9KiGmA-8A

I thought it was Will Zoelner that built the wagon but I been wrong before