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I Forge Iron

ramsies11

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Everything posted by ramsies11

  1. the 55 gallon drum isnt a good idea. you want your heat contained and insulated and the metal used is too thin. meaning you need to have a smaller diamiter forge. about the size of a large dinner plate would be adequate. too much larger and you will burn more fuel than you use. also, dont use briquettes and dont pay so much for coal. stick with lump charcoal or with plain old wood. when using wood for forging, you want the heavy hardwood in the center. and yet another alternitave to solid fuel is propane forges. i dont know how much propane costs there, but it would be worth your while if none of the solid fuel ones suit your fancy.
  2. hades: not quite what i was going for lol! i needed a central loop to tie the cord to, and i decided a taper would work best. pug: are you referring to the bracelet? somthing else i ended up doing is i made a lenght of maile about 3" wide and long enough to fit my wrist. i then connected it with rings. doing this on yourself takes alot of work, but it is a great advertisement of your abilities. my word of warning is use common sense here. dont close it with other rings if you work near machinery it could get caught in. if you do work near machinery, settle for a bit of leather lace. it works fine and makes it removable.
  3. i dont know if you could do this or if they make a fitting for it, but a file on a recipricating saw might work. and if not, why not buy 1" square stock, re-make your hardy tools. and then just simply grind it to fit? since it would be 1" at the top, it would fit most anvils anyway.
  4. there is a man in the netherlands that is buying a chainmail vest from me. my questions are: how do i safely ship the vest so i know it arrives and how do i get the money here without him putting it in an envelope? im looking at maybe seeing about a paypal account. i just kind of need somthing that if he pays me in euros, it will be converted into USD for me. and i need somthing that i can use repeatedly, because hes already talked to his friends about getting said vest in a couple months and now ive got an order for 3 more vests.
  5. id suggest somthing simple, like making braces on two support beams and putting your stock on those. my uncle did that and it worked out fine.
  6. i heard about that fire! but who needs smores? we could get a forklift and bbq us up a great tasting whole cow in a few minutes!
  7. its a completed bracelet. im gonna buy some 12gauge aluminum wire and do it out of those.
  8. ^ somthing i did with some coat hangers, an old boot lace and a copper brazing rod.
  9. Id contemplated making one of those once i get some stronger snips.
  10. if i may, if you are using a heavy gauge wire, please wear gloves when if you hand spin it. i just sliced my hand open because of the springback.
  11. ^ this is my progress with my chainmail, its got a 3/8 id (might wanna add a bit because of springback), i used some 12 gauge coat hangers, and i do believe i have done well with myself!... although this was the fruits of only 3 hours of work
  12. dodge: ive seen a man take a blow torch to a piece of wood to make it look aged.
  13. i have done this at a local antique mall, talk to the owners about getting a glass display case for it, the smaller stuff WILL get stolen. and as said before, cross section it, you want your higher priced goods on one end, and lower priced goods on the other. if you can make them, i suggest shepards hooks to go in there, i sell those, topiaries and bottle trees for 35 a piece in my section i have. and then i have little cast irons knick nacks in display cases. GET A LOCKABLE DISPLAY CASE FOR SMALLER THINGS!! IF YOU DONT, YOUR MERCHANDISE WILL GET STOLEN!! i cannot stress this enough. it is very aggravating to have somthing that costs $50+ get stolen! i know that its been said before that stuff under 30 dollars sells faster, yes it does sell very quickly, but it doesnt show off. have some stuff for 10dollars, then have some stuff that costs 75 dollars. and make sure that you show off your best work, it doesnt have to be for sale, but it shows them what you can do, then leave some business cards at the front desk or in a business card holder youve made, the orders that you recieve from these people usually make more than the rest.
  14. i just fiddled with making the coil an hour ago, and i have to admit, i wish i wore gloves because that wire got HOT! after i got into the pace of it.
  15. ill also be stealing this idea, i claim the fellow missourian thing to do so.
  16. if you need a quick dry out, do glenns idea, if you need a really quick dry out, lay it on a cookie sheet, and take the propane torch to it. we did this in masonry when we had wet sand and the mortar was already wet enough, but we used a wheelbarrow and a big torch. we -redried it each shovel. i dont know how much you specifically need for this project, but baking and grilling the sand works too. and if its somthing smaller, i know a man here in kosh that bought an old clothes dryer drum from the junkyard (without holes) put a different electric motor in it and just went to the store and bought some steel bbs (about the size of whats in your bbgun) and threw them in there. he would leave it running, watch jeproady or wheel of fortune and come out during commercials to check how it was doing. it works well, dont ask me how but it does.
  17. well, yes the chimney idea doesnt seem that appealing outside, untill the wind shifts or the wind decides to blow where your working. i have my forge and anvil and vice all outside, but the wind just absolutely kills me. i have the anvil on a stump so combined its 200-300lbs. and the vice are bolted to a heavy steel table. i have no idea where the wind is going to blow the smoke untill it starts smoking, then i have to pickup the forge and move it to get it where the smoke isnt in my eyes and lungs when im working. thats why i was all for the chiminey idea, i KNOW how much it absolutly SUCKS to get that in your eyes. i get so mad when i have hot steel in the vise, i have 10seconds on the clock and i gotta run away because of where the smoke is blowing.
  18. it is great work. i like the brass leaf in the middle of it. definatly blows my stuff outta the water lol.
  19. it looks good, and you might want a chiminey on it, if you do put on on, have it sheilding the man on the blower from the main part of heat. have the opening for it on the one side, somthing you can also do instead of doing a classic "cover it and pull the smoke up" chiminy, you can make a "draft" chimney. its your same round opening but it acts on the concept that the cool air will pull in the hot and and thus also pull in the smoke... atleast i believe thats right. id have to consult my old masonry textbooks on grill building about this though
  20. id like to see your belt style that you talked about.
  21. make a solid steel stamp, and weld it to a piece of quarter inch plate(we'll call this the stamp plate). then make a double of what you just made as a stamp except everything is in and not out (hope it makes sense) (we'll call this the double plate). i dont know how your vice are set up but make it where the stamp plate is on the solid side, the part that doesnt move. then place your double plate on the part that moves. then just place your sheet steel between and crank. its a crude fix when you dont have a press but it works the same way, then just cut it out, and repeat the last bit. and viola youve got a way to massproduce these scales. if you are not a machinist yourself, find one in your area and pay him to do the stamps. after the stamps are made, depending on how quickly you could make the armor with all the scales there, you could whip these out fairly quickly.
  22. nice job sam. when i first saw the body picture i thought that those were imperfections in the (stem i guess its called? the bit between the part that you hold and the part that hits your neighbor in the face) and then i saw the close-up of it and i realised "never doubt sam ever again" espicially when he has a warhammer. and i gotta say: get hit with that and the bruise will be difficult to explain.
  23. im stunned here... i cant think of anything to put inside the circle except an anvil though. if you want to keep it authentic, google the specific time period your axe was in and then choose from some of the more popular symbols there is my only suggestion.
  24. i agree with thomas here, "rough" isnt really true of any time period, its all depending on getting what you paid for. you paid 10bucks (yes i realise this was a major amount of money back then but i dont remember the calculations, maybe ill ask [insert mods name here] what they paid for an axe when the went west) ive seen axes and hawks and swords that were forged well over 200 years ago and looked better than most machined ones on the market now. its what you pay for. and how quickly it had to be made.
  25. most definatly got that forge envy. look at that dual blower system, and the ease it puts on the smith just to pull one cord and get the blast of air. and all the tools... oh my vulcan, i dont think i could ever amass half that in my lifetime.
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