Norseman C.B.

Ditto !!! B)

I agree about this also but options are always nice ;)

Cal. If you want more acuracy you could cut some brass shim stock to apropriate width and length then wrap it around the bit letting the excess stick out between the chuck jaws, or If you have a lathe, or A pal with one part off some pieces of 3/8" round stock at1/2" lengths drill the needed size hole through then slit down the length of the piece to the hole with a coping saw insert bit into it and insert both in your drill chuck and tighten, A simple collet that works great, make A set of them for future use...Hope this helps Clifford B)

Fight nice now children,Sheesh !!!! B)

Kcrucible; Thanks for your input I found your site interesting, looks like you are going through similar growing pains with your projects, I just finished my new forge and will fire it up soon (letting ths tc100 dry out on the kaowool) I'll be posting photos of my shop and toys when I get the bugs worked out of my new used computer. My old E-machines dinosaur underwent a slow agonizng death by slothness.Some young buck hammer swinger saw my old 10"square box forge and made an offer I could'nt refuse. I hope my variation on the Zoeler 3/4" side arm burner works out well on this 10" round forge take care... Clifford B)

Thanks Thomas and everyone else for your input, Yes I am digging out If you dont screw up once in a while youre not doing much (So Ive been told). Will do some spark testing and filing to deterrmine the type of casting Im dealing with,It looks like it's been built up before (BADLY). I have nicad, WH stainless,60 and,70 series as well as the stoody impact rod,so I hope got the bases mostly covered. The recipe I used on the rotary hammers worked almost too good as the time between redos tripled.Happy customer poorer me...Oh well, rather have happy customers..I like Robs method so I'll check the price on those rods and do what I can with what I can...Clifford B)

I was given an anvil by a nice old pal, A 75 pounder, it was worn to a deeply cupped shape on the face. I milled it flat only to find that the origional hard face was now on the thin side subject to denting by a missed blow. I was considering using wear hardening stainless rod for buildup and laying on a stoody hardfacing layer like I used to to do on rotary hog hammers,(After a good pre-heat of course..) the bulk of the anvil seems to be a casting, not real hard or too soft, and not an identifying mark on it. The size of it is perfect for the size restraints in my shop, was perfectly priced, and worth fixing to me... B)

Gotcha 2 dogs, could be another outfit.. take care Norseman

Thanks Phil; I can imagine the pitfalls of not cleaning the victim... :wacko:

Thank you Phil; more info to digest (love it !!) there are lots of interesting points brought to light for consideration,in your sugested sites, also a pearl of wisdom I found while checking them out. (ie) You have only to state a problem acurately, and you have in general stated the solution. A quote from Thomas Edison..... That is so right on so many levels Thanks and happy hammerin B)

Ciladog; Thank you very much for the plans it will save engineering time on making one. I got spoiled having one on the lathes at former shops of employment,for ship drive shaft couplers, drive shafts, and taper fits on sawmill headrig bandwheel drive shafts pump shafts ect.I like the simple design that is most always the best.I have a retired engineer friend that always said use the k.i.s.s principle when designing something (ie) keep it simple stupid, that pearl of wisdom will stay with me always thanks again Clifford B)

I"ve made some great chisels out of old allen wrenches they seem to harden well and are really tough Happy hammerin.... Cliff B)

Thank you very much for the input guys,the recipe I was looking at came from the backyard casting site, the site has a wealth of info but, the recipe calls for portland cement, thus the crumble effect.would a crushed old toilet work for grog ? I have fire clay, sand, and, pearlite for insulation,the hot layer sounds like a good idea. Would 72 hours cure time be adequate before a multi stage slow firing ? O.H. by the way 2 dog, are you one of the 2 dogs over the hill from K falls? If so Ive seen some of your work ..Good of course. HAMMER HAPPY DUDES Clifford B)

Hey bigun; I like to golf and shoot, theres nothing like haulin out the trusty ol' .17 and blowin away a recaltriant ball ;)

Thanks for the replies fellas I have been using the compound for doing simple non critical tapers but 2+ inches of travel and re-locating for longer tapers is a pain. Craig"s list and flea bay (Ha-Ha) haven"t been productive so far. Again thanks guys Clifford B)

Back in my radiator repair days we used a premixed tinning soloution and an acid brush to apply it. After brushing it on the surface we used a natural gas/oxygen torch to heat the surface until the flux melted and brushed it with an acid soaked brush to spread it along the surface i/e melt brush,melt brush as needed to leave a bright layer of tinning, then lay parts together, clamp, and melt run a 60/40 lead tin solder wire in the joint this of course was done after wire brushing the parts to remove surface oxides. And yes sand blasting is not good as it does leave silica residue behind. (not condusive for bonding). I might suggest that you go to your local radiator shop and offer to purchase some of this stuff and ask If the guy would let you observe the application process. Its not difficult for a fairly dexterious person. Good luck with your project and I hope I have shed some useable information upon you Clifford B)

I have recently purchased and refurbished a logan /monkey wards 10x24" lathe and am looking for a taper attachment to fit. Logan Actuator Co. is awfully proud of their new ones and I dont have a milling machine yet to make one. Anyone out there seen or heard of one for sale or trade or gimme for shipping cost ??? Thank you, Clifford

Thanks Larry; The recipe I have been looking at is three parts each of fireclay, sand,and pearlite one part portland cement for a binder. But the feedback Ive been getting is that it is unstable at forging temps but o.k. for melting aluminum in a foundry furnace I have a small furnace made from an old foundry crucible set in a lube barrel with fire bricks set around the crucible and a side arm propane burner. It works fine but I want to make a bigger one, and a vertical forge to burn waste oil which gets super hot !! However, budget restraints dictate creativity as storebought stuff aint cheap, and I am, so I must endeavor to find an alternative solution if possible. If not I"ll have to bite the bullet and buy commercial refractory. Again THANK YOU for your input. CLIFFORD

Anybody out there got one that works without crumbling after use ??? :unsure:

Anybody out there got A good recipe that dont crumble after use ? :unsure:

Nice find littlemus the link that Old iron found looks like the right deal. the home shop machinist is another wealth of info...and if you happen to run across another deal like that I'm looking for a small fixer upper lathe myself... Have fun with it ..!! CB