Norseman C.B.

I wish to thank all of you for your input on this subject, sadly: upon further investigation my free anvil is definately an ASO cast from malleable cast iron it was bought at a flea market in L.A. Ca. many years ago. My guess is it's a mexican copy casting I'll just have to beat on it till find or make a decent one, then sell it for scrap and maybe buy a hot dog for lunch on the proceeds of the sale ............Clifford :rolleyes:

Looks great I bet assembly was fun....My lineage came from Norvege.. B)

2Dogs ;I think there is a Munnell and Sherrill Industrial hardware store on your side of the hill, should be in the phone book ...check it out lots o stuff to be had there... B)

Thanks Ulric this looks interesting and I have most of the elements at hand for this B)

A wise, well off old man said to my brother who relayed it to me; If you do the best work you can every day the money will come.... Made perfect sense to me.. B)

That would, with some mods., make one great omnidirectional part holding device for welding ,brazing or soldering or assembly or.....???? I woudnt mind having one myself......... B)

Is this freebie on the west coast ?

That was origionally a part or vice mounting table for a radial drill press .but the uses for it are limited only to the imagination.......... B)

I like that idea Phil .... B)

The duracraft anvil just posted in the gallery looks just like the one I have but mine has no I.D. marks on it anywhere mine is cast as well, anyone know the particulars on duracraft or perhaps copies of Im really curious about what I got and as soon as I get a link wire for my camera I'll post some photos thanks guys........... B)

Ulric; would you explain this lively adobe mix and clay/ash slip in more detail please ? (my skull can be thick sometimes)............... B)

Not doing any wild mods. just used a 2" to 1" bell reducer chucked it up in my lathe and bored it out on the inside to smooth it up then turned the o.d.'s till smooth also, then bored the 90 degree orfice on the 1" to 3/4" tee i.d. and stepped it to accept the now slick smooth bell and sweat in brass rod to stick it together, then re-chucked the whole assembly in the lathe and turned it smooth on the o.d. of the joint again. It looks much better than stock plumbing fittings and should have a much more improved air flow now without the casting flaws and the threads (My theory of course)....This is my first go round with kaowool and ITC my last one was 10"x!0" square tube with fire brick lining, got workable temps. but not welding temps. this new one should get much hotter faster without the heat loss from the untreated brick mass.(Again theoretically)... Still deciding on type of choke system I'll go with, will most likely use K.I.S.S. principal on that part. Take care... Cliff O.H. yeah I'm still gonna do the bigger foundry furnace and vertical forge using waste oil as fuel; My neighbor makes bio diesel and the unacceptable stuff for him is useable to me, the site you suggested looks like the one to go to for castable refractory.(Thanks). And yes the building of toys is at least half the fun Later.... B)

I used to be one of the machinists at South Coast Lumber in Brookings and am familiar with Steve's, asked for work there after Clinton's N.A.F.T.A. project screwed me out of the best job I ever had.(None was available at the time) K Falls is a little too far away and I am able to do the repair, but thanks for your reply, next time I take a ride out that way I'll stop by and thank you personally... B)

We used to use the early versions of that stuff on the tender I was stationed on back in late 70's early 80's we used a wire spray and powder with oxy/acet. Also used an electro plating process with a carbon rub form and pumped a charged electrolytic fluid through it while spinning over a tub on a lathe woked pretty good on both processes... B)

The rod I have is a stoody impact rod made to overlay A buildup rod, dont have the number on the top of my head but I think it will do the job. thanks C.B. B)