BP1005 Rafi Rose

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BP1005 Rafi Rose
by Rafi Dahan

First we need to arrange the materials and tools:

I took 3 round punchout disks of 2.5" diameter and a thickness of 1/16".

The tools used were:

* Ball fuller 1/2" O.D.
* 1.25" hole in swage block
* Cross-pein hammer (pein is between 5/16" and 3/8")







I recommend marking lines on the punchout, dividing it into 5 or 6 sections, and then marking them using a center punch. The reason I did this was so that I would know where to land the hammer when the punchout is hot.







First I pound the punchout from the center outwards, following the division marks made earlier. I prefer to do this step with two punchouts at once, one on top of the other. I do this to save time and preserve the heat. If the punchouts distort too severely, I flatten them out a bit.













Some times after this step the punchchouts get stuck together, In this case take them apart with a screw driver and pliers.

Next, I arrange a stack of three punchouts over the swage block hole, as shown. (I prefer to arrange them in a way that puts the most concave punchout at the top) After heating, I drive the ball-fuller into the center of the stack. I continue hammering until it closes enough.



























The flower itself is now done. I put the layers together fixing them in place permanently with epoxy.

If you choose to add a stem, you can accomplish this by drilling through the bottom layer (before gluing the layers together) and riveting / welding it from the inside to a stem.























If you do not have a swage block, it can be substituted by a section of steel pipe with one end flared. This method might also work with pieces that are not round, such as pentagon shaped pieces. Even triangular or square shapes might work. You can try this method using more than three layers, and in different sizes.







Here is a flower with another shape that I have tried.

And this was the result

I hope you enjoy the Rafi Rose.