ironartforge

This one appears to have the added bonus of being able to hold a shoe vertically but I have to agree that it is very light for any serious work. I have several of the traditional styled caulking vices and they are invaluable to have around the shop. They also hold surprisingly well with little pressure on the treadle.

On my way home from church I noticed the local Fire Department loading a dumpster so stopped to inquire. They said it was all junk and to take whatever I wanted. I got the siren off the building roof, several old Scot air tanks, a lot of aluminum plate, about 50 pounds of brass fittings, and some turnout gear. Plugged the siren in and it works fine... It was a good day for dumpster diving.

Wolfgang forge has these that are laser cut. I bought one and find it very handy around the shop.

So I have modified my old storage that was way overcrowded and tried to make room for all of my stakes and hardies which had been accumulating in boxes and crates. I thought this cart would hold everything but it doesn't. It's not the worst problem in the world to have but I would like everything to be more organized. Does anyone have a good storage system that they use?

My 50 lb Clay Spencer tire hammer is 6'9" to the top of the tire. Conversely the 75 lb Iron Kiss is 6'3" and the 50 lb Little Giant is 5'11". This is measured from the base of the hammer. I do like my anvils a little high so all of my hammers are on pedestals of some height to bring them to a comfortable working level. With my 12' ceilings a few extra inches doesn't matter... The anvil on the tire hammer is 38 1/2"

A hack that tall would be better suited to hand hammering in my opinion. In the power hammer there is a lot of twisting moment if you don't have the hack exactly vertical when using it. I try to keep mine much shorter to eliminate this.

This has all the makings of the start of an Acme anvil obsession. Next thing you know the Acme anvil museum is in your back yard...

There should be a swivel on the arm off of the top of the forge where your wooden handle is mounted. The handle then would connect to the eye on the weighted arm and turn the flywheel. Easy enough to fab up. Then all you need is a leather belt from the flywheel to the blower. Great price you got on this one...

You can also look here http://www.blksmth.com/mild_steel_firepot.htm for ideas. Good luck with your forge build.

I'm also in Maine and find that to be a very high price for the anvil. There are plenty of anvils available for $1/lb that are in decent shape. Very clean crisp anvils can be bought for $2/lb or less. PM me and I can give you a few leads...

I'd stay away from the shocks. The rods are usually chrome which can have all sorts of nasty consequences...

BB Noyes & Co. Greenfield, MA

Greenfield & Wilcox if I remember correctly. I will have to look the next time I wander past it...

I've rolled thick walled 1" at that tight a radius with minimal collapse but 1 1/2" would really be pushing it. I'd try the sand and cap method. Just be sure to use good dry sand...

Tried that method. Apparently they used some good hard concrete... It may take something a little bigger than the average Black Cat firecracker but it does sound fun Frosty - I tried something similar with little success. There's plenty of other anvils around the shop to use so there is no hurry to get this one unshrouded. I think freezing it off may be kind of a fun way to do it. But then again there is that explosives suggestion...