Frosty Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Beast is a good descriptive term or that . . . beast. Good call putting a scale on the tray edge. About the only suggestion I have is maybe put feet on it before you paint it, it might dig in on dirt and get a little rocky tippy. Oh, where's the cup holder? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 15 minutes ago, Frosty said: Beast is a good descriptive term or that . . . beast. Good call putting a scale on the tray edge. About the only suggestion I have is maybe put feet on it before you paint it, it might dig in on dirt and get a little rocky tippy. Oh, where's the cup holder? Frosty The Lucky. I thought about adding feet, but since I'm currently working in my garage, it rests nicely on the concrete floor without them. And now you've got me brainstorming ideas for a cup holder. Have to make sure it can't be confused with the punch lube, though (and before you ask why I know this, let's just say that back when I was working in the art restoration studio, I had an unfortunate moment when I confused a cup of denatured alcohol for my cup of tea). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 11 minutes ago, JHCC said: I thought about adding feet, but since I'm currently working in my garage, it rests nicely on the concrete floor without them. And now you've got me brainstorming ideas for a cup holder. Have to make sure it can't be confused with the punch lube, though (and before you ask why I know this, let's just say that back when I was working in the art restoration studio, I had an unfortunate moment when I confused a cup of denatured alcohol for my cup of tea). Tea with a KICK! Reminds me of days gone by when we'd sit around and play Backgammon for hours every evening. It wasn't uncommon to either drop your dice in a cup of coffee or throw your coffee on the gammon board. Of course cooling hot punches, etc. in your cup will just keep it hot longer, Mulled tea or coffee. On the serious side that's exactly why I use a covered insulated cup in the shop, keeps my coffee or Ice tea close to a good temp and keeps the flying crud out. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 26 minutes ago, Frosty said: Of course cooling hot punches, etc. in your cup will just keep it hot longer, Mulled tea or coffee. And then there's the high-tech version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 7 minutes ago, JHCC said: And then there's the high-tech version. My my my. Sure a good thing the college prof didn't have anything important to do eh? You don't mull liquor do you? Doesn't a good Irishman go to hell for spilling good liquor? I wonder what level he'd end up in for deliberately wasting it? I think I'll stick to turning on the Mr. Coffee and let the teapot keep hot on top of the forge. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Never seen someone mistake their dip cup???? Never seen someone's spouse mistake their spouse's dip cup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 4 hours ago, Frosty said: Oh, where's the cup holder? Here you go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said: Never seen someone mistake their dip cup???? Never seen someone's spouse mistake their spouse's dip cup? My brother once poured my dad a big steaming mug of what he thought was tea but turned out to be goose grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Little detail: the anvil gives about 85% rebound in the ball bearing test, which is no change from the old stump. The upsetting block only gives about 35%, but since that's to be expected from some welded up pieces of mild steel, I'm not upset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDarkNebulah Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 22 hours ago, JHCC said: I thought about adding feet, but since I'm currently working in my garage, it rests nicely on the concrete floor without them. And now you've got me brainstorming ideas for a cup holder. Have to make sure it can't be confused with the punch lube, though (and before you ask why I know this, let's just say that back when I was working in the art restoration studio, I had an unfortunate moment when I confused a cup of denatured alcohol for my cup of tea). I guess that wasnt really your cup of tea? Not a very good pun... I'm sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 On 2/4/2016 at 9:03 PM, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.c said: The height should be about your wrist when you are standing up straight. With the 3 legged stand your feet can be under the anvil with you closer and up straight with less back pain. A 3 legged stand always has all three legs firmly on the ground and is much more stable. Let me know if I can help you, Wayne Wayne, I went with a taller height as you suggested, since I figured I could always trim it shorter if necessary. While I haven't had a chance to actually forge some steel on it yet (thank you very much, head cold), I took a few whacks on a piece of wood with my usual hammer, and it felt really comfortable. Thanks for the suggestion. 23 minutes ago, MrDarkNebulah said: I guess that wasnt really your cup of tea? Not a very good pun... I'm sorry I coughed it out immediately, which made me the cougher and the alcohol the coughee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Addendum: rather than going with the silicone, I put some thin bits of inner tube rubber under the anvil and wedged a chunk of wood between the rim of the top plate and the anvil's foot. It deadens it nicely and locks it in solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaylee Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 On 3/24/2016 at 7:08 PM, JHCC said: Little detail: the anvil gives about 85% rebound in the ball bearing test, which is no change from the old stump. The upsetting block only gives about 35%, but since that's to be expected from some welded up pieces of mild steel, I'm not upset. Of course not. The steel will be upset, not the smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 1 minute ago, Kaylee said: Of course not. The steel will be upset, not the smith. Thank you! I was waiting for someone to get that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaylee Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I chortled when I saw it, and was snuffed that nobody had brought light to that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 I was going to let him wait, that was a terribly jumped up attempt. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 On 5/1/2016 at 0:29 PM, Scrambler82 said: What are the measurements, height, floor foot print ? The footprint is 29" horn to heel (not counting the tool tray), and the width of the heel end is 18". The stand is 24" to the bottom of the anvil (not counting the upsetting block), so the total height with anvil is 35-1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 “ Why is the top of the stand narrower than the bottom of the Anvil” ? Because that's the stock I had on hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Scrambler; are you familiar with the banks of the great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River? (It's a good question and a rather common answer in blacksmithing as many of us design for the stock on hand or easily sourced---or some projects stay on hold till the "right" stuff turns up. Keep up with your " 'satiable curtiosity "!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said: Scrambler; are you familiar with the banks of the great grey-green, greasy Limpopo River? Would that be the one all set about with fever-trees? Also worth noting (from a structural point of view) that since the anvil is securely wedged between the flanges of the I-beam, it doesn't need the bit of lateral stability that the feet normally provide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Yes if it's securely mounted then the SYSTEM has the wider footprint at the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 43 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said: The bottom of the stand being wider than the top is understood but I wasn't sure of the anvil resting point being smaller. I would have thought distribution of the downward force would be best distributed with full contact ! The bulk of the anvil is still over the stand; only a bit of each foot is outside, so not an issue. 47 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said: JHCC, Another question... Did the stand ring before the rubber was added ? Can't answer that one, as I added the rubber right at the start. The anvil was rocking a bit when I first test-fit it to the stand, so the rubber is just as much to shim up the corners as it is to deaden the sound. 49 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said: So I have another question... The wooden shim, how long before replacement ? I've replaced it once already, but that's because the first one didn't fit very well. I'm not particularly worried about its durability, as I can always hack out a new one as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 I cheated, I cut the angle iron for the frame then clamped it to the anvil foot and tacked it, adjusted it then welded it so there was no rocking or odd gaps. Having the legs extend a bit beyond the anvil's center of mass just makes it harder to tip if you're doing leverage work on it say scrolling with a fork and wrench. A tripod is much more stable than more legs of a large flat base. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 Can they be? Yes, fifteen minutes or so with an angle grinder, and you're good to go. Should they be? When the anvil can be leveled and secured more quickly with shims, why bother? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 In my stand, at least, shims aren't a bandage: the bits of rubber that level the anvil also dampen vibration. In other words (as the computer programmers like to say), it's not a bug; it's a feature! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.