Jeff Bly Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Question, what is the best way to treat steel/iron tools to keep them from rusting? I currently have a bunch of my tools soaking in old used motor oil. That was something my grandfather used to do. His tools might have looked dirty, but never rusted. I ran across someone today that said I should use mineral oil instead. What's best for my tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 What I do thats not as quite as messy as old motor oil is spray with W-40 periodically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 If it's something that may sit for a while and I don't want it rusting I use LPS-3. The volatiles carry rust inhibitors and it leaves a thin layer of very durable wax. It smells nice too. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 (edited) Frosty, LPS? It took me years to figure out ROTFLOL . what exactly is LPS? on second thought, google is pretty neat. LPS is basically petroleum-derived carbon and hydrogen, paraffin, mineral oil and a small amount of acetone. pretty clean. thanks Edited March 5, 2009 by Pault17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Break-free, Liquid Wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Bly Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 How is LPS applied? Is it a spray or does it come in a can? And what size quantities are available. I've been straightening up my garage all afternoon and I can't seem to locate my 2 cans of WD-40. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob JS Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I use WD 40 its easy to apply repells moisture and doesnt make a sticky mess. Buy a new can and you will suddenly find your 2 old cans and probaly a couple more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 (edited) I first was exposed to LPS in the service. Dang!! Forgot all about it tho We used it on moving parts in our rifles and pistols; on the slides and such. I seem to remember it being a bit thicker than WD40 and according to the weapons techs, it had better lube properties than WD40. And as Frosty said, it smells nice too The stuff we used was in a small plastic squeeze bottle IIRC. Maybe 2 oz.? In some old pics from 'Nam, you'll see it rubber-banded to soldier's helmets. (OK back from memory lane haha) anyway, I'm sure its probably in aerosol as well. What isn't ??? LOL Edited March 5, 2009 by Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan W Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 For edged or pointed tools I fill a five gallon bucket half full or fine sand then pour a few quarts of used motor oil into that. Mix well. I just stick my pointed tools into the sand and there they stay until I need them. I use this method for all my yard tools also. Shovels, axes, etc.. After use, just plunge the tool used into the oil soaked sand a few times and your tool is now clean and protected. For my hammers I just grab a handful of the oily sand and rub the head of the hammer with it. Cleans and protects. I also keep a small bucket of the oily sand around for any knives I might be working on. Just stick the knife into the sand until your ready to go back to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Jafo, that's a great idea. I used to use dirty oil for a whole lot of things but that is new to me. Here in sichuan it is warm and very humid which is the worst combination for producing rust. So I paint wherever possible or as much as possible and then just keep the unpainted areas bright with grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Wow, there's suddenly a new look to the forum! I'm blaming any mistakes on it for some time to come too. LPS has a number of products including one that's the equivalent of WD-40. (LPS-2 I think) I've seen it in the little plastic squeeze bottles, aerosol cans and gallon cans. I imagine you can get it 5gl. cans, 55gl. drums or bulk if you want. I know WD-40 is available in almost any quantity you want. I spray my tools with the aerosol cans but may buy the pump spray bottle next depending on quantity and price. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I normally will let anything that is not a precision instrument or wood cutting tool to develop a rust finish since it acts as a protective coating. The Europeans discovered that characteristic when their polished muskets kept rusting in the field and "browning" was born. "Blueing" came later but all are forms of iron oxide. All of my blacksmithing tools are black but it's a combination of rust and oil - any oil. WD40 works fine but plain old ATF is also pretty good for general lubrication and protection. You will find that it's almost impossible to keep larger tools from rusting (anvils, swages, etc.) in a humid environment simply due to the thermal mass causing condensation from daily temp changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arbalist Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Not for large items really but I use this stuff for measuring/small tools:Flexbar: LANO-LUBE 2OZ TUBE Vic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevan Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Frosty, LPS? It took me years to figure out ROTFLOL . Well then, let me know because I still have not figured it out! Kevan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I use beeswax on my punches & chisels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I've used beeswax thinned with mineral spirits warmed into the metal. Sorry, I don't remember the formula. Really nice surface prep. doesn't get your hands dirty. I use this mostly on wood carving chisels and layout rulers. When I say warmed in, the wax applies like a paste with a brush and warm the tool until the solution flashes and let cool. I don't think the flash temp is much more than 100-150 deg. F. Very dirable and clean finish and I don't believe it causes any tempering issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Bly Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 I just read a piece on scaling (rust) and the author spoke of using linseed oil. Quote "First rub the steel using a cloth soaked in linseed oil. Then bring it to the fire to warm the piece up. The oil will carburize. Remove from the heat and rub down the steel again then set aside to cool. Wipe off Excess oil and the piece should remain rust free for some time. He goes on to say, "The same can be done with beeswax, but for a more effective combination, use a combination of linseed oil and beeswax. Heat up the oil and flake the wax with a knife. Stir until all wax is melted. Apply the same way as suggested for the oil alone." He recommends using 6 cubic inches of beeswax to 1 quart of linseed oil. However the proportions are really not critical and adjust the quantities used until you are satisfied with the outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Be VERY careful of linseed oily rags, they are well known for spontaneous combustion. It is the rule not the exception for them to catch fire. The only safe way to dispose of them is to burn them. Washing won't make them safe, there is no known safe way to store them. Keeping them in sealed cans filled with water works just fine so long as you can guarantee the can doesn't leak. As soon as the rags approach dry they will start heating up. In fact they heat faster if they're damp than dry. A good treatment for hot iron is spray Olive Oil Pam. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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