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I Forge Iron

Draw Knife, how to sharpen


CBrann

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Draw file, then oil or whet stone to hone. Once the edge is right I just hone with a fine stone.

If the wood is clean and the draw knife is good enough, stropping is beneficial. The sharper the better so long as you don't leave a weak edge.

Frosty

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Great, but which side is the cutting angle? The bottom against the wood or the top where the "shavings"come off?

Whats a "proper" sharpening angle?

I use a lot of hand tools, planes and spokeshaves mostly, but need something a little faster for roughing out. I know their angles, and stuff, but the draw knife sorta gives me pause. This draw knife is my grandfathers that my father gave to me.

I have stones etc, just some advice on where to start, and do it right.

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Actually both ways are correct! I'm more of a woodie than a blacksmith, and use drawknives and shaving horses a fair bit. Bevel up is good if you're hogging out a lot of wood, but flip it over so the bevel is against the timber or branch, and you have more control. Yes, the angle of attack is different, and feels different with hand grip, but it works. It takes off less shavings, doesn't dig in or dive into the grain (contrary to what Frosty said, sorry!). Put it this way, carving chisels are mostly used bevel down... and normal chisels get used either way, depending on how much bite you want. Bevel up, they spear in; bevel down, they rise out of the timber.
Bevel down with a draw knife also allows you 'neck' a round tenon into concave profile, or shoulder, instead of a straight taper.
What was said above about sharpening is good advice. I tend to use a diamond hone on the job, for a quick touch up.

Cheers,
Makoz

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I just tried tacking on an image in edit, but here it is anyway, to illustrate what I mean about bevel up or down. I'm focussing on the necked taper vs. straight taper (which is critical if you are making round tenons for rustic furniture), but the diving into the wood or out of it is also illustrated.

Cheers,
Makoz

11797.attach

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