Makoz

Hi there, I've actually done some forge work lately! I made a two-handled herb knife as a present for my twin sister- our 50th birthday. Made from a recycled rotary hoe blade. I left some forging marks on it (simply because I like the rough hewn look;)), but overall I'm happy with the result. Progress shots and stuff can be found here. Cheers,

I usually wear a light leather glove, called rigger's gloves here, on my left (holding) hand only, none on my hammer hand for reason's pointed out by others. When welding I put a standard Kevlar gauntlet on my left to protect it from direct heat, and a rigger's glove on my right because I have more feel on the trigger....and don't flash myself as much! Cheers Makoz

I just tried tacking on an image in edit, but here it is anyway, to illustrate what I mean about bevel up or down. I'm focussing on the necked taper vs. straight taper (which is critical if you are making round tenons for rustic furniture), but the diving into the wood or out of it is also illustrated. Cheers, Makoz

Actually both ways are correct! I'm more of a woodie than a blacksmith, and use drawknives and shaving horses a fair bit. Bevel up is good if you're hogging out a lot of wood, but flip it over so the bevel is against the timber or branch, and you have more control. Yes, the angle of attack is different, and feels different with hand grip, but it works. It takes off less shavings, doesn't dig in or dive into the grain (contrary to what Frosty said, sorry!). Put it this way, carving chisels are mostly used bevel down... and normal chisels get used either way, depending on how much bite you want. Bevel up, they spear in; bevel down, they rise out of the timber. Bevel down with a draw knife also allows you 'neck' a round tenon into concave profile, or shoulder, instead of a straight taper. What was said above about sharpening is good advice. I tend to use a diamond hone on the job, for a quick touch up. Cheers, Makoz

Sorry to hear about his passing. I just went through a few pages of the gallery, what an amazingly talented man! He must have been a real inspiration to work with. Regards, Makoz

I have the option of using an auto helmut or a standard full face type, at work using a MIG. I choose the latter always, maybe because I'm so used to them, but also because I like being able to watch the glow of the metal between runs. If I'm joining thin to thick pieces, or just plain thin work, I'll weld for a bit, stop with the gun in place and watch the heat build-up dissipate, then press the trigger and go again. Saves me from blowing holes etc. Ditto for filling in gaps or repairing those blow outs, weld briefly, wait for the glow to dissappear then proceed. I learned that from a guy years ago on arc welders, and its something that just can't be done with an auto helmut. As soon as you stop welding normal vision returns (Duh!) and there is no sign of the tell-tale glow, so it lacks the nuances in the steel. Just my opinion anyhow! Cheers, Makoz

Welcome Michael! Where abouts have you set up shop, I'd like to drop in soon. Good luck. makoz

Hi Creek, I've been down a similar route to yours, went back to art school after 12-13 yrs working, mostly as a diesel fitter but also some furniture making (when the spanner work became too much:p). The most useful courses I've done outside uni have been basic welding -as offered by trade colleges for apprentice boilermakers; and an intro blacksmithing course. To further a career in public art I would suggest doing a proper CAD course. While it may not actaully assist your own work directly, it will only enhance your proposals when you go for commissions. Many such opportunities are dependant on the OK of an engineer (well they are here, because of Workplace Health and Safety, duty of care, public liability ad nauseum), and people like that only speak CAD! It certainly doesn't hurt to present your work as a 3D walk-around on a computer, or send it on a CD etc. I haven't been too far down the route I started, with only a few commissions and some exhibitions- inc. a selection of work over your way at SOFA in Chicago- instead I stayed at the uni and now teach workshop practices to sculpture students. Anyway, that's my advice, good luck with what you're up to! Makoz

G'day Ray, Good to see you here, now I feel a lot safer!! Cheers, Makoz

When I worked as a diesel fitter in the mines there were a couple of classics: "Cut your way in, weld your way out"; and "Never put put your finger where you wouldn't put your ol' fella first"! Cheers

Thanks for the comments guys! rmpcb, have you used any rose mahogany aka Australian rosewood? Lovely stuff to work, one of my favourites. John, I think its a combination of the curve and the wickedly sharp blade which has no real bevel. The curve means that the blade keeps in full contact as it swipes the pencil? Prolly seems a bit fussy, but I do a lot of drawing and like a sharp pencil! Hate the edge a pencil sharpener gives. Cheers, Makoz

Hobbyist smith, although I did earn my keep for a while at a wrought iron works. I too did the Cobb & Co course in Toowoomba (1993?), and since then use the skills mostly to make tools for myself. I use the the tools for metal and woodwork. I teach workshop skills to sculpture students and although we have a forge I haven't fired that one for years. I live on acreage near Cabarlah, on the range north of Toowoomba. Cheers, Makoz

I do a seasonal ritual: stop shaving at the start of winter, the shave it off come spring. The wife hates the beard, but I hate shaving, esp. after years in the airforce where it was compulsory, so I find it a real relief. The whole respirator thing is a worry though, not just wood dust at work. Cheers

I have access to a uni library, and wade through all manner of books: history and archeology, paleontology, biology, engineering, art and crafts (blacksmithing & furniture making especially), biographies and fiction. I too keep a journal/sketch book, jotting down ideas as they come to me, or pasting in pics and photocopies. Its a bit of wake up call to flick through 15 odd yrs of them to realise the same patterns or images keep emerging, like they've been re-assessed in my subconcious. Cheers, Makoz

I've done a few public commissions using laser cut stainless as well as aluminium. Besides the cost of converting CAD files (which shouldn't be there if I'd learn to use a CAD program myself!), the expense seems to lie with the cutting of holes. The machine has to stop and start again, obviously. Each "insertion" costs $$$, so if you are cutting a lot of holes, which your mesh is, that equals a heck of lot of money! The technology seems to be suited more to continuous cuts, in multiples. Can the holes be linked in a more continuous flow, ie strips of holes? I would agree with Nate, use a commercial mesh and shape panels which can to be joined later. Is there a possibility of joining each panel to a formed rod or bar, on the seam line? Good luck

Thanks Ratel, but that link wouldn't, try this one! Cheers,

Hi Ratel, Welcome to sometimes sunny Qld! I just found a link to a forge nearby to you, in the Gold Coast hinterland: The Village Smith - Events Looks like there is a gathering there each year. There is also an annual get-together in Stanthorpe, which is further inland, held in July (The Great Dragonwehr Smite) which I've been to, and it's great fun. The local one here looks unlikely to go ahead now, as the smithy has closed shop. I managed to score a handcranked blower from him, so hope you didn't drag too many over with you! Cheers, Makoz

I think Jerry was referrring to a blower (centrifugal, rotary) with a pump handle. That is a bellows style handle connected to a con rod on the shaft of the rotor. We had one on the farm I grew up on, and it wasn't a bad design at all. Cheers, Makoz

Thanks Thomas, I did think it looked fairly deep, compared to others I've used. I rarely use coal, mostly charcoal or coke. As you say, if it doesn't suit me I'll change it, and make a hood as well. Regards, Makoz

Hello again, Here is my leg vice which I bought from a farm auction a couple of years back for A$90. The leg was bent but not broken; ditto the handle; there was no plate/bracket with which to bolt anywhere; and the spring was missing. I repaired all that and fitted it to a pipe upright which I welded to a truck rim, found dumpster diving! I purposely left the leg clear of the floor so it doesn't get damaged when rolling the base about. A solid block of hardwood with a mating hole slots underneath, and ensures the vice is solid in use. In this pic I have my anvil stored on top of the rim, a temporary measure to clear floor space. My next job on it is to make a circular rack for hammers and tongs about the same diameter as the rim. I aim to have it removable, socket the legs into holes in the rim and somewhere up top too. Cheers, Makoz

Hi there, Finally got to take some photos of my blacksmithing gear. Here's my anvil, which is 1 1/4cwt ex-Army WWII vintage. She's a bit worn down and probably hit with a grinder, as there is very little step in it. Its mounted fairly securely to a bit of bridge timber, and I lift it onto the base of my leg-vice for storage... having only a small workshop. I can use both bits of gear like this if I'm doing nothing too serious. The spring hold-down device does well working single-handedly, found the idea somewhere. Thanks for looking! Makoz

Hello, I just bought this blower and shop forge last Friday, pre-auction. The blacksmith who is selling off a lot of his stuff and moving, reckoned he could get A$300 at auction. I got it for $250 (about US$220), which I reckon is OK considering I haven't seen any for sale around here recently. Its a Rapid brand blower made in Sydney, and was once part of a set complete with anvil and tools. There has been some serious repairs/mods- like the firebox, which is completely rebuilt using mild steel and a plough disc. Also some repairs to the cast iron blower casing. It turns OK and although I haven't fired it up yet I'm sure it will work fine. Cheers, Makoz

Hi there, I'm in Queensland, north of Toowoomba. I think I've seen about 4 or 5 other Aussies here. Cheers, Makoz

I've used auto parts for wood and metal working tools, mostly leaf springs, but also steering column and sway bar. Also used push rods as the shank for a set of custom spade bits (welded on chainsaw bar for the blade). So enthused over the possibities of recycling auto parts, a while back I organised an exhibition of 15 artist friends, all gathering their source materials from one old Renault which was donated. It was called the One Car Show, and was held in the Toowoomba Regional Gallery in 2005. It included workers from other fields besides metalwork: textiles artists used upholstery, wiring looms and various buckles & catches; a printmaker made relief prints from plaques and chrome details; a glass artist got the windscreen etc; a painter worked on the roof panel; kinetic artist used the windscreen wiper motor and the gearbox; etc. I utilized the leftovers: cobbled together a functioning chariot from the rear end, by cutting out one third of the width and welding the 2 sides back together, cut and shut, including axle. Anyway, not really blacksmithing , but a similar idea could be used as the basis for an exhibition. A group of local blacksmiths/metalworkers use one car as the source, and show their output together. Galleries are a good way to raise your profile, and they love a good coherent theme as a proposal for a show. As pointed out here already, loads of creative potential, add the buzz of recycling, and it gets the public in. Don't dismiss tools as having limited impact in a gallery either... might be ho-hum to those of us that use them daily, but not to everyone. Cheers, Makoz

It's certainly affecting things here, now petrol (gasoline) has hit $1.50/litre or roughly $6/US gallon. People are travelling less, so its already affecting tourist numbers. I've been working part time for a caravan (sorry, trailer!) manufacturer, and he's laid me off along with another part timer, because orders have ceased. No more "grey nomads" cashing in their super to go travelling around the country. As for clotheslines...you mean people who rely on tumble driers? In suburbia here, and out of town where there's room, I guess most of us use a Hills hoist, a rotary device like a big umbrella with wire; or maybe one of the extending lines for smaller yards. Not much chance of making those on a forge! I have been thinking about a move to horses, but those decals on the odd horse float declaring "Poverty means owning a horse" have scared me off! The next one is planting a grove of oil-producing trees for bio-diesel, like Pongamia, but its a 3yr wait untill you run your vehicle!! Anyway, you bring up a good point, what will this increase mean (besides higher prices for almost everything) in the way of opportunities? Cheers, Makoz