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Post Pocket

Featured Replies

I have several tools that I don't use alot(Pipe vise, Bender, large extra vise,etc....) but need a solid mount in an open area when I do use them. I am thinking about cutting a 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" hole in my shop floor. Then making up a plate with a 4x4 ID square tube 16" long welded to it and fastening it to the floor with the tube going down in to the floor.
Making a Post to fit down into the pocket and then adapters to fit the diffrent tools Then make a cap to cover up the hole when not in use. That way I can still use the only open space I have left when I need to.

Has anyone ever seen this done? Does anyone see any pit falls I'm not seeing? Does anyone have a better Idea on how to accomplish this? :idea:


Sorry I got long winded on the description

JWB

I've seen exactly that idea used, albeit with a splined socket in the floor as opposed to a square tube.

The spline for the post came from a car drive shaft end and the socket from same vehicle. The builder (a Master Smith called Erik Gjendem ) said he used splines because on a peice of equipment like a pipe bender he needed to be able to set the tool at more than just 4 angles so he could maximise the space he had, also the splines held up better under stress.

The hole in the floor was smaller and easier to cap with just a bit of plastic, no risk of tripping over it.

just a thought.

JWB: Another, less traumatic, solution might be these:

https://www.confast.com/products/machinescrew-anchor.asp

That way, if you have to move your machine, just unbolt it and put bolts in the imbedded nuts to keep them covered from debris.

I haven't done this yet, but didn't realize it was an option until recently. Until now I've been putting in concrete anchor bolts, but this is probably my next light machine mounting solution.

since you are going to cut a hole in the floor anyway why not cut one a little larger and concrete the recipticle in place. / no nuts, no bolts and a much more secure mounting and also a much cleaner and neater apperance that would be easier to cover when not in use. before the concrete sets up just take a 1/4 plate the correct size and form a indention for the cover then you have a perfectly flat floor with nothing to trip over.
just a thought

  • Author

Thanks for the input fellas,

Ian,
The spline sounds good if I can find one if not I may modify the pocket.

Ed,
We have those at work, If you encounter much vibration or stress they let go. We went back to red heads mostly.

Yesteryearforge,
I was thinking that exact same thing on the way home from town this afternoon. I believe that is how I will do it.

Once again thanks,:mrgreen:

JWB

jwb: Thanks for the feedback on the idea. I wondered how well they anchor and appreciate the warning. Maybe I'll avoid them after all.

JBW if you use the 1/4" plate option, weld a matching insert to the bottom of the plate to both give it weight and to keep it from moving around and out of position. A finger hole in the plate comes in real handy for removal.

  • Author

Thanks Glenn,
I am going to give it a go in the next few days. Will post a pic or two when done.
Once again Thanks to everyone that offered up advice.

JWB :D

Make a way to clean out the hole, cleaning both dirt and water. If there is not a bottom to the hole (concrete box) then a foot or so of gravel will act as a place for any water to go and then be absorbed by the earth. A piece of sheet metal on top of the gravel will keep dirt (or that small part) from hiding between the gravels.

JBW,
A freind of mine in Idaho, has had to build two shops in the last few years. ( first was his first shop building and the 2nd was due to mioving to a larger property.)
But in either case he did about as you said except he had his 'plug holes' put in as the floor was poured. So it should work. He even forged and welded to gether some nice caps for each.

Ralph 8)

  • 2 years later...

Man after me own heart!! this is what I am going to do also, as I have a heavy 5 or 6 inch post vice, a bender, and a couple of ther tools that I need a place to use, so thought that I would make different stands for each of them to go in a hole in the floor/Selden

me my self at an old job i cut a hole in the floor and concreted a old trailer hitch in there the all the post i made i welded a 2 inch square tube on the end you can find old hitches wetre i'm at next to nothing

When I was preparing the foundation and slab for my shop I put 2" sq receiver tube sockets on a 4' grid throughout the shop. The sockets (gozintas) are welded into the rebar grid for a welding ground and connected below the floor via 3" ABS pipe for a subfloor exhaust system.

There's also Pex tubing for infloor hydronic heat.

Frosty

9663.attach

9664.attach

9665.attach

  • 3 weeks later...
JWB: Another, less traumatic, solution might be these:

https://www.confast.com/products/machinescrew-anchor.asp

That way, if you have to move your machine, just unbolt it and put bolts in the imbedded nuts to keep them covered from debris.

I haven't done this yet, but didn't realize it was an option until recently. Until now I've been putting in concrete anchor bolts, but this is probably my next light machine mounting solution.


This is what I have done to secure my bender to the middle of my shop floor. Here in Oz these things are called wedge anchors and the ones I use are made by ramset
They are 50mm long, reqire a 16mm dia hole and you insert a m12 bolt into it after you have driven the wedge home with a punch. Core drillers use exactly the same anchor to mount their rig on the side of a wall to drill holes up to 200mm Dia through reinforced concrete. Larger than 200mm dia we use two anchors or go the next size up. I have used four to mount my bender to the floor and when I need to remove it I put rag or paper in the hole.

As this is my first post, just want to say this forum is a great resource. :D

Steve in Oz

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