Mark Aspery Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Hello, I have just received a telephone enquiry about making some butterfly hinges from a client. They are to match some existing hinges in a log cabin. From the conversation, it seems the hinges are to be made from barstock and not from folded/doubled sheet steel. A rough finish (yea rust) would be appreciated with a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 How to make a butterfly hinge. Mark, as you make yours, photograph it and submit it as a Blueprint (grin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Hi Mark, Just forge up as per strap hinges including punched holes, and cut out centre area of pin with two hacksaw cuts and chisel out the centre, mark out from this on other hinge then saw in and chisel off at each end of the other hinge and fit and rivet pin lightly in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 I would think you would want to look at and maybe take pictures and measure the ones the customer wants you to duplicate first. Looking will tell you how they are made. FWIW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Sorry, my poor English! The new (butterfly) hinges are to match a style of hinges already in the cabin (Rustic) not other butterfly hinges. (sorry for the mix-up) I'm looking for stock sizes and time. All hinges that I have made have had a larger journal/pin than what I think is required in a butterfly hinge. Do you still pre-curve the bar across its width to accommodate the turning of the eye to leave a straight walled cylinder when finished? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 When I saw Bob Patrick demo making a butterfly hinge, he used sheet stock, rolled both barrels and then cut the parts he didn't need out with a hacksaw and a cold chisel for removing the center part, and filed the barrels where they met in the center for a nice fit. then hammered the butterfly part to make it spread, then punched holes. if that helps. My own experience you need to roll the very end up first before completely rolling the barrels so that you don't have a straight part instead of a completely rolled barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Here's a photo of one installed on the cabinet makers sample. Gerald, What was your starting stock and time per unit? Nice progression by the way - why not post it as a blueprint for IFI? Thanks for taking the time to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 what keeps the pin from falling out with just a head on one end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakwoodironworks Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 The ones that I have seen were on barn doors and doors to log cabins. Gravity holds the pin in place, just like on a modern-type hinge in your home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 So Mark, any other questions? Nope! That was it, stock requirements and time. I was unsure as to whether or not to bend the stock across its width as a start to rolling the eye for this - lighter stock. You mentioned that you do pre-bend... that's good enough for me. Thanks to all who answered the call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 If the hinge is for a box, rivet head the pin at both ends, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jymm Hoffman Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) The butterfly hinges I made for Ft. Ligonier about 8 years ago were all forge welded as the originals in their collection. I used 1/8" by 1 1/2" stock. I roughed out a bunch of one side of the hinges at a time. I bent about 2" over the edge of the anvil and formed a sharp 90 degree bend, then wrapped it back onto itself to form the barrel around a 3/16" pin. I did get a little of the bowing, but forced it back when reheating. I welded the overlap, spread out (alternating cross peen and face of hammer,) to the desired width. I cleaned up the barrel and cut off from the bar. The rest was bench work to cut and file the "wings" as well as the barrels to fit, outside of setting the pins as I did peen both ends. I don't ember the time, but I would estimate about an hour for a finished pair. (4 welded up identical sides.) I would not do these for less then $75.00 a pair. Edited January 13, 2009 by Jymm Hoffman spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 . I don't remember the time, but I would estimate about an hour for a finished pair. (4 welded up identical sides.) I would not do these for less then $75.00 a pair. I agree - possibly a little more... although they do not want any clean up other than scale removal - and that I do in a pickle of white vinegar. I would normally weld a hinge eye as I have a trick little design that comes with it. I think I will stick with Gerald's design of a rolled eye only and cut down on the time and drawing down requirement of 1/4 inch thick (1/8 starting thickness) at the weld. Thanks for your input Jymm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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