johnny p Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 (edited) Hi, i have an Anyang C41-25 power hammer. I use it for making stone cutting/carving chisels. I taper out the chisel ends on the power hammer but i still do the upset forging with hammer and anvil as i can't upset on the power hammer as there is not enough clear space. Does anyone know if i can modify the hammer to make more clear space? Is it possible to utilise a garage workshop hydrolic press 50 tonnes for upset forging? The biggest chisel i forge is 2 inches out of 3/4 octagonal bar EN9 carbon steel. Any other ideas for upset forging? More information - i start off with a 9 inch length of octagonal steel and i upset the end to 1 1/4 inches then taper out to 2 inches. The chisel needs to be forged thick because it is tipped with tungsten carbide. Edited January 2, 2009 by johnny p extra information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesrjohnson Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Before I start, are you trying to upset a 2" long octagnal piece of steel? You should have enough clarence with your hammer to do that. Guess I need more definition on the problem you are trying to solve. One option that I would consider is to start with a larger diameter of rod, and then use the power hammer to thin out or taper rather than upsetting the end of a thinner piece. Interesting question... will be interested in seeing others solutions. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mills Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Clifton Ralph shows a lower die he built for his Murray that allowed him to do that. He removed the lower die and inserted a device like a C on its side then bent the stock clamped it with a header block and headed the stock. Seems he was using 1". I don't have a way of getting a clip of that as I have vhs tapes. may be some one else can provide a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Did you try to take off anvil(of powerhammer) and to put some hard flat steel into its groove? It may give you more clearance.I was servicing plenty of blunt chisels(must been thousands over them years) for pneumatic hammers(Hilti,Bosch,Makita etc.) and often masons required pretty wide edges on them.So I did it this way,when they were short enough.Long ones we had to do by hand and that's real pain in ring,'cos them steels are hard enough to let one dislike this job quite badly.Oh and we were using Russian powerhammer MA with 80kg ram,there is clearance something like 1 foot or even more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 (edited) Does your hammer have a sow block? if so remove it, it will give a little extra space ... how much extra space do you need ?? A friend of mine uses a press for upsetting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yQZgB5axWY&feature=related brad Edited January 2, 2009 by NeatGuy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devon blacksmith Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 I bend the shafts to 90 then upset the end then straighten them probably not the best way but very quick and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 The use of a press for upsetting and more 1032 1934 1020 1030 As for upsetting with the power hammer I recomend to upset O N L Y with the limit of the air hammer daylight !!!!!! If you''ll take the bottom die off you are endengering the hammer !!!!!!!!!! If by sjear mistake you 'll forge beyond the hammer daylight limit the hammer will hit the bottom holding flange and this is a dammege that is very hard to repair. please DO NOT FORGE BEYOND THE HAMMER DAYLITE. HOFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Hofi's advice to limit a power hammer to its daylight stroke is very good advice. Power hammers that exceed design stroke in either direction risk major failure. Maybe unrebuildable failure, as well as flying machine parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 Instead of using the hammer for the upset, why not use an air driven impact hammer, like a chipping hammer. Make a "Heading" tool to fit the hand held air hammer. Clamp the chisel blank in a large vise or back it up some how, then use the impact tool to do the upset. This avoids the bending/straightening issue, allows you to keep using the same starting stock and should be faster than upsetting by hand once you get the technique down. Patrick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 MOO, (my opinion only) but Patrick has the best solution to this problem. You can make tooling to fit the airgun for several different sizes to be upset. Let us know how this comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 I have used a jig (see image) that can be used to upset without having to worry about exceeding your hammers stroke. The top of the jig is the same height as the die in the sow block. Removing the sow block and replacing it with the jig will not let the tup travel any further than it would with the die and sow block attached. That said I feel that a press, if available, is still a better option.http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/data/500/medium/upsetjig.jpg brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Stegmeier Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 For a short upset light fast blows will upset just the end so making a header with a hand held air hammer is ideal. You can do it on a press, or on the power hammer, just depends on how you want the end product to look, and how much time you can spend to get the results you want. I'm surprised that ptree didn't suggest the correct tool for this job a 3" Atlas upsetter... ;-) (inside industrial joke;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Shane, the correct tool for this one is probably a table top Ajax 1" upsetter. At only about 30,000# and small enough to be transported on a truck, it is even sorta portable:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Hey Mr Parsons, hope the hammer is working good for you! You could make a special bottom bolster with a hole in it for upsetting on the power hammer, or consider buying a flypress of ebay ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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