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I Forge Iron

A Pair of Olliver Hammers


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Recently I built a small adjustable/transportable olliver hammer for a friend. During construction of the first hamer another friend stopped by and decided that he also had to have one. The smal ollie has an 8 pound head and the large one is 16 pounds. Both work very well and were easy to build, so I thought that I would post a few pics and a video in case anyone was interested.

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Nice Olivers Jose, well done.

The one thing I'm not so thrilled about is having to go behind the anvil and bend over to adjust the hammer height on the ones where you can that is.

A thought just ocurred to me though. (DANGER Will Robinson DANGER!) How about making the height adjustment at the hammer head itself? Use a length of sq. tubing welded to the arm and a length of solid sq for the hammer head. A number of pin holes drilled through both would allow adjustment from the work station.

I'll have to think about that. Hmmmmm.

Frosty

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Im guessing you would fatique less with a threadle? I dont think this hammer could be simpler, very nice. Can you compare this hammer vs a power hammer like the rusty appalachian? Ex. which one would draw out a 1 inch stock faster? Im guessing

the power hammer would but the oliver uses no electricity for guys like me that have a shop were no telephone polls run lol !

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Treadle hammers, whether they're simple ones like an Oliver or really complicated ones like the Grasshopper are not power hammers. Two different beasts all together.

Think of them like a striker for doing precision work and occasional heavy work.

In most, power hammers are used for their speed. Meaning they move a lot of metal fast.

The similarities being no need for a third hand or helper and heavier blow.

Frosty

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Thanks All! Ted T, the handle on the small portable hammer is about 26 inches long and is made of pipe. The handle on the larger ollie is about 38 inches of 1 inch solid round. Both handles are measured from the pivot point to the top of the hammer head. Frosty, I like the idea of puting the adjustment at the hammer head, but on both of these builds I was stuck using whatever "junk" my friends brought with them, or whatever we could dig out of the scrap pile. The only things that were purchased just for these hammers were the springs and a short length of chain for the bigger of the two. I think that in total we put less than 40 bucks into the set.

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Since the hammer is swinging in an arc , there is only one point where the face of the hammer and the anvil are parallel. This could be a problem if a lot of different thicknesses of stock or heights of tooling is used.

This could be compensated for by having the hammer pivot point be adjustable vertically up and down. This could be done as simply as having a series of holes in the vertical post with an easily removable pin or something more sophisticated such as an acme thread or ratchet. The rack and pinion crank mechanism used on the original ABANA treadle hammer design would also work very well and allow quick height adjustment.
What seems like a limitation in the action of this style of hammer could actually be an advantage : the ability to strike a powerful and controlled angled blow, something no power or treadle hammer or press can do. This would make it more akin to having a human striker without the wages or back talk.
By making the pivot axis adjustable vertically would allow one to adjust for either a parallel or an angled blow.

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SGropp, you are right on both accounts. If you will notice, on the small transportable hammer there is a series of holes on the vertical post that the hamer pivots on. These holes allow the user to adjust the hammer to strike the anvil flat at its lowest setting, or up to 10 inches over the anvil at its highest seting to allow for the use of tooling. The larger hammer, on the other hand, is fixed. It is specifically designed for use by a bladesmith, so I set the hammer to strike paralell at 1/4 inch over the anvil face. By doing this the hammer can be used to draw or flatten blades, but when used on thin sections, the hammer face strikes at a slight angle which works perfectly for forging the bevel on a blade.
nealj, to attach the head on the small portable hammer I first forged a piece of pipe down to where it would fit through the eye of the sledge hammer head. Then I took a good heat on the pipe and drove it into the sledge head. I followed this up by trimming the part of the pipe that was sticking out of the other side of the head off and welding the pipe to the hammer head. On the large hammer I used solid stock for the handle. First I forged the solid to the shape of the eye then took a high heat and drove the bar through the hammer eye. Before the bar cooled I turned the hammer over, stood the hammer up on it's handle, and forged the portion of the bar that stuck out back into the head of the hammer (like a giant rivet).

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