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1095 Katana WIP

Sam Salvati

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Got the 1095 katana I had worked down from the big 3/8ths barstock from Aldo (thanks to Dick Sargent at Peter's Valley for letting me use the hammer) all ground, just have a little touch up work to go then it is ready for heat treat.

It is not really as shiny as it looks in the first picture.

Stats so far:
overall length: 34"
blade length: 27 3/4"
width at ha-machi (shoulder): 1 1/2"
width at yokote (tip): 3/4"
thickness at base of blade: a hair over 3/16"
thickness at yokote (tip): 1/8"

Straight now, gonna let it get all it's curve from the quench.





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It looks great and has a clean line. You mentioned heat treat, what will you heat treat it in? I messed up and told a fellow I would make a machete for him that is 37" long. I guess I will heat treat it using a propane forge and a torch at the same time. The holes for the handle have been drilled and the next step I need to do is heat treat. This thing is massive and I am lost on getting the whole thing hot.

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LDW, I will be building a 55 gallon drum heat treating forge designed by Don Fogg:

Don Fogg Custom Knives

Very simple, a burner pointed into a refractory lined 55 gallon drum. Much easier to hold an even temperature in a large area than in a small (like a regular forge), and they use less gas than you would think due to the efficiency of the refractory (just plain 2 inch refractory wool). Use a cheap thermocouple or infrared thermometer (or a magnet) to find the right temperature.

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Bent, I'll save making the fittings for when and if the blade survives:D.

Jan, I did a quick and dirty normalization before grinding, but will do a full high medium low normalization cycle before heat treating, I find no need or benefits to anneal, normalization handles things just fine. The shoulders were forged in, quite round. thanks!

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  • 3 months later...

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