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Posted

Got the 1095 katana I had worked down from the big 3/8ths barstock from Aldo (thanks to Dick Sargent at Peter's Valley for letting me use the hammer) all ground, just have a little touch up work to go then it is ready for heat treat.

It is not really as shiny as it looks in the first picture.

Stats so far:
overall length: 34"
blade length: 27 3/4"
width at ha-machi (shoulder): 1 1/2"
width at yokote (tip): 3/4"
thickness at base of blade: a hair over 3/16"
thickness at yokote (tip): 1/8"

Straight now, gonna let it get all it's curve from the quench.

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Posted

It looks great and has a clean line. You mentioned heat treat, what will you heat treat it in? I messed up and told a fellow I would make a machete for him that is 37" long. I guess I will heat treat it using a propane forge and a torch at the same time. The holes for the handle have been drilled and the next step I need to do is heat treat. This thing is massive and I am lost on getting the whole thing hot.
LDW

Posted

LDW, I will be building a 55 gallon drum heat treating forge designed by Don Fogg:

Don Fogg Custom Knives

Very simple, a burner pointed into a refractory lined 55 gallon drum. Much easier to hold an even temperature in a large area than in a small (like a regular forge), and they use less gas than you would think due to the efficiency of the refractory (just plain 2 inch refractory wool). Use a cheap thermocouple or infrared thermometer (or a magnet) to find the right temperature.

Posted

I just hope you rounded shoulders well,otherwise its big stress point,not to mention proper annealing before heat treating.Anyway,good luck!

Posted

Bent, I'll save making the fittings for when and if the blade survives:D.

Jan, I did a quick and dirty normalization before grinding, but will do a full high medium low normalization cycle before heat treating, I find no need or benefits to anneal, normalization handles things just fine. The shoulders were forged in, quite round. thanks!

  • 3 months later...

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