Sam Salvati Posted November 16, 2008 Posted November 16, 2008 Got the 1095 katana I had worked down from the big 3/8ths barstock from Aldo (thanks to Dick Sargent at Peter's Valley for letting me use the hammer) all ground, just have a little touch up work to go then it is ready for heat treat. It is not really as shiny as it looks in the first picture. Stats so far: overall length: 34" blade length: 27 3/4" width at ha-machi (shoulder): 1 1/2" width at yokote (tip): 3/4" thickness at base of blade: a hair over 3/16" thickness at yokote (tip): 1/8" Straight now, gonna let it get all it's curve from the quench. Quote
RainsFire Posted November 16, 2008 Posted November 16, 2008 cool, you going to finish it .. please do looks great so far Quote
Sam Salvati Posted November 16, 2008 Author Posted November 16, 2008 Here is some better overall shots, could barely make out any kind of shape in that first picture. Quote
LDW Posted November 16, 2008 Posted November 16, 2008 It looks great and has a clean line. You mentioned heat treat, what will you heat treat it in? I messed up and told a fellow I would make a machete for him that is 37" long. I guess I will heat treat it using a propane forge and a torch at the same time. The holes for the handle have been drilled and the next step I need to do is heat treat. This thing is massive and I am lost on getting the whole thing hot. LDW Quote
Sam Salvati Posted November 16, 2008 Author Posted November 16, 2008 LDW, I will be building a 55 gallon drum heat treating forge designed by Don Fogg:Don Fogg Custom Knives Very simple, a burner pointed into a refractory lined 55 gallon drum. Much easier to hold an even temperature in a large area than in a small (like a regular forge), and they use less gas than you would think due to the efficiency of the refractory (just plain 2 inch refractory wool). Use a cheap thermocouple or infrared thermometer (or a magnet) to find the right temperature. Quote
Bentiron1946 Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Nice looking blade! Now where is the rest of the accourtements?::cool: Quote
Jan Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 I just hope you rounded shoulders well,otherwise its big stress point,not to mention proper annealing before heat treating.Anyway,good luck! Quote
Sam Salvati Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 Bent, I'll save making the fittings for when and if the blade survives:D. Jan, I did a quick and dirty normalization before grinding, but will do a full high medium low normalization cycle before heat treating, I find no need or benefits to anneal, normalization handles things just fine. The shoulders were forged in, quite round. thanks! Quote
Blackbeard Posted November 23, 2008 Posted November 23, 2008 Nice work Sam! I found something you may be interrested in nostro-swords.co.za this guy makes some awsome swords Cheers Bb Quote
orgtwister Posted November 23, 2008 Posted November 23, 2008 nice i like it some day maybe i'll try to make one Quote
Sam Salvati Posted November 23, 2008 Author Posted November 23, 2008 Thanks guys! Andre, I have seen that site before they make amazing swords! Very nice work I wish I could handle one firsthand. Quote
MetalMuncher Posted December 1, 2008 Posted December 1, 2008 Your sick man!! Serious work! Howd you get the "kissaki(or point)" (i think thats the name) so clean? Teach me ? Nice work again!! Quote
1234 Posted March 23, 2009 Posted March 23, 2009 hi I was just thinking maybe i was gonna make one but i don't know where to start can u help???????? please???????? Quote
Sam Salvati Posted March 23, 2009 Author Posted March 23, 2009 Bit of a broad question, care to elaborate more on your rough location (by filling out your profile), equipment you already have, things you know? Quote
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