Die-grinders

[FTK]

Hi
I’m thinking about buying a die-grinder. To get at hard to reach welds and so.I can’t decide if i should buy an air powered or an electrical grinder.The air powered is smaller so it can access small places better, but i’m worried it doesn’t have the power.(my compressor delivers 400 L/min). And then there is the price a good air powered one will cost me about 100euro’s (135 USD) the electrical can cost up to 300 euro’s(400USD).
So do any of you have experience with this type of tool all information is welcome.

Frank

[Me&Fe]

Hi.I use an air-powered die grinder called ''The Mighty Atom'.It has plenty of power.I find its a brilliant tool to use and it makes a very satifying noise as well!Id go for the cheaper option myself,i always think electric ones overheat quickly but this is just my opinion...

[DC712001]

My pneumatic (air-powered) die-grinder, is one of the most-used tools, I have ever owned. It is really, really handy, cheap to buy and powerful.

I buy mine from Harbor Freight Tools for (U.S) $19.99, use it several times a week, and even at that cheap price, I've had them last for ten-years or longer.

I typically use it with an arbor and roll-lock abrasive disks, but have mounted a carbide rasp, abrasive cut-off disks, cloth buffer wheels, etc.

400 Liters-per minute amounts to 14.1 Cubic-Feet-per Minute. The 5-Horse-Power, two-stage Ingersol-Rand compressor I use to power my die-grinder, puts out 14.7 CFM or 417 Liters-per-minute, so I think you should be fine with regard to power with a pneumatic die-grinder.


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[Avadon]

Air is always higher quality over electric. It is cheaper, creates less heat, vibration, and overall cost of ownership. The expensive part is getting the compressor to run it. This can cost hundreds into the thousands depending on your needs. Mostly 90PSI @ 10-15CFM or thereabout is a minimum if I have it right. But you can't beat air. I really wouldn't waste your money on electric die grinders as they don't make 90dgs electric die grinders and that is what you'll want.

[KYBOY]

I used a large DeWaalt electric die grinder at the prison a lot..I installed a lot of the "BIG" folger Adams security locks in crash gates and grills..It was perfect for making sure the lock set right in the mounting brackets and holes..

[coltpax]

I use a right angle die grinder from HF (15 USD) and its lasted pretty well for something that cheap. Its pneumatic and works nice at 90 psi.

[FTK]

I was thinking about an straight grinder it seem to me that they can get into tighter spots then the a 90dgs one.

[coltpax]

i like the 90dgs ones for no special reason. I use small finishing pads on them alot, so it kind of works better for me. id jsut choose what works better 4 u.

[drillmastertommy]

Been using a 240 volt Makita straight die grinder for the last 2 years and it's been BRILLIANT!!

Only problem is how long the super fine/sharp metal splinters hang around in my arms after using tungsten finishing bits.

[Bentiron1946]

I have a Harbor Freight die grinder and that thing uses so much air that my compressor has a hard time keeping up with it. They are tough little grinders and last forever but they are efficient users of air. I have an old I-R grinder that has to be forty years old and it grinds just as well as the HF model but use much less air. If you have a concern about the cost of electricity then be careful about which tool you buy.

[Graham Fredeen]

When I used to weld hand rail and other decorative iron work I worked at a couple different shops, one had compressed air piped throughout the shop, the other didnt. The shop that had the compressed air had the pneumatic die grinder and the other had the beefy electric (I think one dewalt and one milwakee), and I have to say that I infanitly prefered the pneumatic (just a plain straight, not 90 deg). Overall it was alot easier to use, the electric die grinders were bulky and had some weight to them and really required two hand operation, whereas the pneumatic you could use with one hand, no problem, it was light weight, ran smoother, and could fit into a lot tighter spaces.

Another tool that I found to be super valuable in the fab shop was a band file/belt linisher/"belt file" or whatever you want to call it,
This - Small Belt Linisher

Those little things are great for cleaning up welds and rounding corners and getting into hard to reach spots. I have also seen them in pneumatic if that is the way you want to go. You can buy the 1/2" wide belts and split them in half and run 1/4" belts for cleaning up welds in corners, and dealing with tight radii areas. A 60 grit belt on one of those will knock down a weld pretty fast. You do end up going through a lot of belts, unless you buy good quality belts (which the shop never did so we burned through a ton of those things). Just thought I would throw that out there too.

[Daryl]

Ingersoll-Rand.
The best at any price low or high. Low air consumption per revolution, long lasting (always keep all air tools oiled), and simply can not be beat (no apologies to any other maker). I also work at a heavy truck dealership where the I-R tools easily beat out all competitors in performance. Best of all, they also are not the most expensive. Win-win.

[Johnnie C.]

I use a air die grinder, its a little cheaper than a elcectric and a lot smaller. I use electric die grinder at work and they seem to be a little too big to handle sometime. The RPM's are higher on an electric than air. Another tool you may look at is a naumatic file. I have one that I use a lot. It takes a 3/8 x 13 in belt and works good for corners and such. You find them at Nothern Tool or Harbor Freight.

[ironrosefarms]

I too buy my pneumatic die grinders at Harbor Freight and if you watch for them to go on sale I have got them cheap as $10. Plenty of power and for a cheap tool I am well pleased, I have used expensive ones from Snap On and the Matco dealer and was no more satisfied with performance of them. I have both the right angle and straight versions and both are very useful.

James

[JAllcorn]

I've got several air die grinders, H/F, Enco, IR, Snap-on, etc. Also a Milwaukee electric one. You get what you pay for. The cheap ones from H/F, etc. don't have the torque and under hard use will bog down. Air consumption is stated on the box when you buy it so don't buy one your compressor can't support. My Snap-on and IR use lots of air but rarely slow down under the heaviest use. The IR was about $100 and I will NEVER buy one of the cheap ones again!

The Milwaukee electric is used for remote work where no air is available. It is a real workhorse with lots of torque and you will wear out before it does! I think it cost over $300.

I use them mostly with carbide cutters of various shapes and sometimes with small mounted rocks, grinding welds on things like staircases and other expensive commission work. My IR is a FRONT EXHAUST model and helps blow the cut metal shards away from me. Be sure to wear appropriate safety equipment, face shield, safety glasses, leather jacket, hearing protection, etc.

Be sure to keep them oiled.

[jake27081991]

what ever you do..dont buy an Ozito one

it is the worst tool you could possibly buy....when youve got something spinning that fast the last thing you want is a wonky chuck (what ever they're called on a die grinder)

mine was about $40 AUS....i would definalty go for the air one instead....

[mcraigl]

I've got a straight electric one and a couple of right angle pneumatic ones. Mostly used with rolloc surface prep pads and carbide burs. The little egg shaped carbide burrs kick but for blending welds in tight spots. I think the difference in where you can reach with the two styles is minimal, but the controlability of the right angle is an order of magnitude higher than the straight one. Also I agree with everyone else about air vs. elec. The air is a one handed tool and the elec pretty much requires two hands due to it's weight and it being a straight shaft.