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I Forge Iron

Stone carving tools.

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Grant Sarver would tell you he makes the bits for jack hammers, and demolition hammers from 1085. Which can be had from old sections of railroad track, if you can find it legally, and work it... Agricultural steels tend to run from 1065-1095, and heatreated and tempered prooperly they would work well too. 5160 Coil spring would work to, again if you tempered back enough. Scrap demolition hammer bits if you have a scrapyard that sells them, or if you can buy them from a rental company would also work well... Jack hammer bits have an air supply hole through center, and shouldn't be used in a hot forge after being used as a struck tool, and with mushrooming heads and such there is always a schrapnel risk. Most S series steels would do fine too (the S is for shock resistant I believe>)

Whatever you end up using you should use a differential heat treat on it. By which I mean forge it to shape and then anneal or normalize as best you can, then harden just the working end, and temper. It is also recommended to use a Soft steel hammer. This is the safest combination, and will deliver the most energy to the stone.

So, do you want to buy new steel and are you looking for a shopping list? Or are you going to be scrapings, and just plann on using whatever is handy that will do the job???

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I'm making some too. And following Uncle Frosty's recommendation re Weygers book, The Complete Modern Blacksmith. There's great info and how to stuff in there. I've been rounding up 3/8" to 3/4" coil springs for our chisels. It's the same stuff I use to make hot cut chisels with. Yep, only heat treat the working end. I still haven't solved all the stone carving hammer needs yet. (I need about ten sets of everything for a couple of high school stone carving classes I'm giving next semester.)

I guess it depends on what stone you're going to be carving. There's a world of difference between basalt and granite, at the hard end, and then alabaster, soapstone, limestone and sandstone at the soft end, with marble and jasper kind of in the middle. Also what scale/size rock will you be working? Will you being doing all your work by hand or using pneumatic and/or rotary tools as well?

All the best, Phil

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One "by side " question in the modern blacksmith book when it says :"temper and draw peacock to bronze color" is that understanding to immediatly quinch after?
-in the water coolnat?

Yes, temper quenching takes place as soon as soon as the temper color reaches the edge of the piece.
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