harlequin

Yes, temper quenching takes place as soon as soon as the temper color reaches the edge of the piece.

I found the book; "The Modern Blacksmith" by Alexander Weygers did he write a second book? And the book is great by the way. Very well written and illustrated nicely. Thanks guys.

Well, I really haven't thought past making the chisels, but, I will be using a hammer and not pneumatic. I will be getting my material wherever I can find it and will probably work in marble but alabaster for now. I carved a life size skull for someone once.

I would like to try and make my own stone carving chisels but I don't know what kind of steel to use. Can anyone enlighten me on this?

I'll do the super quench and see how that does. Thanks guys.

Is there a substitute for the Shaklee Basic I? I had a hard time remembering what the Shaklee company was.

I like working with railroad spikes. They make very interesting knives but they are not so keen to hold an edge. Don't think I needed to tell you all this but anyway, I have been looking in to case hardening but I am wrought with questions. I need to know the best way to get the most carbon into the steel just along the edge if nothing else. Also, if I case harden, will I then need to temper the blade? After I case harden, will sharpening the knife take the hardened layer off of the blade? Or can I repeat the case hardening so that I can get more carbon into the knife so that I can sharpen it many times? Thanks guys.

My name is Shawn and I just learned blacksmithing last month. I am self taught. Howdy ALL.