highlander Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 this is my result. it came out a little big because i was rushing to beat the storm clouds rolling in, as my forge sits outdoors while it is hot. try #1 melted in my coal forge when i wasn't paying attention. this one was made in my propane forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Looks pretty good. Your photos will come out better on a solid background that contrasts gently with the subject. One that is out of focus in the background is even better. Taking good pics of shiny metal is one of the harder things to get right. I think a good start would be not shooting against the striped background though. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlander Posted September 6, 2008 Author Share Posted September 6, 2008 yeah i realized that, i was just in a rush because i was tired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civilwarblacksmith Posted September 6, 2008 Share Posted September 6, 2008 Ain't nothin' wrong with them. I like that style of finishing the stem than the way that I have been doing it. Good Job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 a white sheet background with muted flash will work......or a light blue sheet will work in most conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 The inside of a cardboard box (cut apart and laid flat) works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlander Posted September 8, 2008 Author Share Posted September 8, 2008 The inside of a cardboard box (cut apart and laid flat) works well. Here is a different try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inazuma_x Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 looks pretty good! for the next one you make: if you make a very sharp point on the bar before you start to draw out the leaf bits then you'll get a sharper, more leaf-like appearance to the point on the end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 I forge the end of the bud to a very sharp point like inazuma says and I never hit it with the hammer. Also, when peeining out the leaf, I never land on the very edge, I hit just behind it. This stops those little bulges from forming. I only hit the edge when planishing with flat blows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inazuma_x Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 (edited) another variation i make on this method is instead of hot chiseling in the central vein (and just leaving it chiseled) i either leave a ridge in the middle (but this can be a bit fat and undefined if you arent really careful with your hammer blows) or when the whole thing is more or less flat and the shape i want i place the leaf 1/2 in the step down from the face of the anvil and the table and using the same hot chisel bend the leaf into the groove...then hammer it back onto itself to fold it in 1/2 effectively...then heat again and using the chisel carefully prize open the 2 halves and carefully hammer it more or less flat again (avoiding the central vein that is being made)...this will give the leaf a highly defined vein on the back and a groove running down the middle which i think looks fabulous! i'll post a pic of one i did when i can find it in my pile of scrap at home this works especially well for gum leaves (have to work in a bit of australiana whenever i can)...and in some cases i even let the very thin edges of the leaf burn slightly in the fire...this makes a very "natural" dry leaf look which can look quite nice if used sparingly...might not surprise you to hear that i found this out by accident lol Edited September 8, 2008 by inazuma_x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Another good technique for veining leaves is to make a die. This is simply a piece of reasonably heavy steel you make negative veins with your veining tool, just like most vein a leaf. However, to use this you get your leaf forged to nearly it's finished size and shape and do the final forging on the die which brings it to it's final size and shape and leaves positive veins like living leaves. The one in the pic was made for a leaf demo at one of our meetings by Mark, Metalmangler. You can of course make the veins curved or for multi-lobe leaves, etc. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keeplokd Posted September 8, 2008 Share Posted September 8, 2008 Nice keychains. Here are a couple examples of some of my early attempts. I like these as demo items as you can demonstrate many of the elements of blacksmithing (cutting, fullering, drawing, bending, twisting, etc." in one simple project. They really start to see the leaf develop fairly early on and can keep up with the smith. I currently use a modified chisel for the veining, but I'm open to trying Frosty's suggestion of the plate. I've seen these before and just haven't gotten around to making one. You'll note that my leaves were "sculpted". I was taught this way and not only does it make the leaf more realistic, but it is a real "OH-AH!" point at the demos. Sometimes you hit it with a brass brush at black heat to get the golden highlights and explain that its an Autumn leaf. Good for a quick $5, too! Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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