Anvil ID Verification - Badger

[Bull Bison]

Hello All, Newbie here (first post)

 I've been welding (not professionally) most of my life and I have some machining experience. In my late teens, early twenty's (I'm 49 yrs old now), I built a few knifes out of files and old leaf springs, but using my dad oxy-acetylene rig to do so didn't last long for obvious reasons. I love working with metal. This being said, while I have years of experience working with metal, I have no blacksmith experience. I am ignorant, but am trying to learn as much as I can. I am currently gathering tools and equipment so I can start working metal. 

Last weekend I purchased an Anvil from a guy near Houston Texas. He stated that had acquired the anvil in Ohio. He thought the anvil was a older Rigid, which at the time, I was somewhat excited because I've heard rigid anvils are great, and with some extra money in my pocket, no time to research, and a belly full of margarita's, the anvil was mine. Back to Austin i went. 

After hours of research, I now believe the anvil to be a Badger. I have seen a few identical anvils on the wwwdot, one however was a Vulcan (It had a Vulcan makers mark on it), the others I saw I had to take the original posters word for it as there are no makers marks on Badger anvils that I have seen.  Also it would make sense that the Vulcan looked identical to the others (Badgers) as I understand that the company that produced the Vulcan's at one point purchased the company producing the Badgers. 

Here is what I have found so far concerning my purchase and would like others opinion's and or verification on my attempt at identification. Thoughts on the time frame of manufacturing would be appreciated as well. 

• Weight: 127.9 lbs
• Height: ~10"
• Overall Width: ~19.5"
• Face: 4" x 12"
• 3/4" Hardy
• 1/2" Pritchel
• Bottom is flat
• Two Handling Holes, one under horn, one under heel
• Cast Iron with HC Steel plate approximately 3/16" thick on face including horn
• Swell beneath the hardy
• Cut out in foot beneath heel
• Only identifying mark is a the proud number "12" cast under the horn
• Rebound: 75% - 80%
• Price: $5.40/lb (I know, take it easy on me)

Again, not asking if this is a good or horrible anvil. I know it's probably a decent beginners anvil and it is not top of the line and I probably could have done better elsewhere. That ship has sailed. Once I get some hot metal on it and get the hammer going, that will be the true test. I am just trying to confirm that this is a Badger and would like to know approximate age if possible, I'm just curious. 

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

David

  

[Frosty]

Welcome aboard David, glad to have you. Someone who knows a lot more about anvils will respond shortly I'm sure so I'll go elsewhere.

Don't wait until you have the tools you THINK you'll need to practice the craft, the minimum list is REALLY short. Something to hammer against "anvil" something to hammer with any smooth faced hammer around 32oz. a HOT fire and something to beat on. 

Sure something to cut with is handy but not a show stopper, you can forge one out of almost any steel. Something to hold HOT work with is really nice but if you forge long stock it won't burn your hands just remember which end is which!

Yard and garage sales are your friends, lots of punch and chisel sets are on those tables and hammers are really common, broken handles drop the price to really reasonable, sometimes free. Old tire irons, lug wrenches, crow bars, etc. are excellent medium carbon stock for making things like tongs, spring tools, etc. 

Mason chisels make good hot chisels either a hardy or top cut and don't forget the good old hack saw. 

Files are nice for cleaning things up and shaping. Hoof rasps will REALL hog red hot steel off. Think file a horse shoe in half almost as fast as you could cut it with a hack saw, hog hot iron. 

Just don't get in a hurry, you don't know what you really need yet and the only thing rushing is guaranteed to do is make your mistakes permanent more quickly.

Frosty The Lucky.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

It does look like a Badger, but I like Frosty am no anvil aficionado either. It looks to be in good condition and an excellent usable anvil, provided it has good ring & rebound. I hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on it's hardened steel face. Trying to repair/refresh it will do more harm than good in most cases.

[ThomasPowers]

There is an active ABANA affiliate down in your part of Texas, Balcones Forge.  I strongly suggest you get in touch with them and attend a meeting or several.  I tell folks that one Saturday afternoon working with someone that knows what they are doing will save you about 6 months and a lot of aggravation compared to trying to learn it on your own!  (For instance; how do you judge if a video is giving you good information or if the poster should be run out of town on a rail!) 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

There are some good blacksmithing YouTube video producers. The recommended ones are listed here. Our own Jennifer (jlpservices) makes some very good ones. Whenever I'm watching one of hers, my wife says "Is that Jennifer" and she comes to watch also.

 

[Bull Bison]

Thank you all for the welcomes!

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21 hours ago, Frosty said:

Old tire irons, lug wrenches, crow bars, etc. are excellent medium carbon stock

 

I've got a pretty decent shop with a pretty large amount of tools and equipment and a hobby of mine is collecting old tools so I'm off to a real good start in that regard. And can see myself welding up hardy's as I need them. There is always a scrap metal pile and welder ready to go at moments notice. I'm getting close to finishing my Ribbon Burner forge (at the risk of this thread getting off topic, I've attached pictures below), that is my first hurdle at the moment. I could pull out the torch, weed burner or get the fire pit going to get some metal hot, but that would only distract me from getting the forge completed. Just need to get the refractory placed and some plumbing done and it should be good to go. 

 

Thanks for pointing out the medium carbon items, this is something I'll need to educate myself on. 

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21 hours ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

Trying to repair/refresh it will do more harm than good

 

Point taken on the "fixing" the Anvil. Don't plan on grinding on it to make it "better", I'll let the hot iron do the work for me. I put a wire wheel to it and hosed it down with some cowboy cologne (WD-40). 

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18 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

BANA affiliate down in your part of Texas, Balcones Forge

 

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17 hours ago, Irondragon ForgeClay Works said:

YouTube video producers. The recommended ones are listed here.

 

I'll check out Balcones Forge. I'm planning on taking a couple classes in a few weeks and in the wee hours when I can't sleep, I'm on youtube trying to learn what I can. Not having much knowledge in the subject though, it can be difficult to weed through some of the "experts" out there.

Thanks for the tips. 

David

 

[JHCC]

Good to have the expanded metal shelf right there on the forge to put hot things on. Make sure you get that ceramic fiber rigidized and covered with a good layer of hard refractory before you start forging; you do NOT want to be breathing particles of that stuff.