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I Forge Iron

Opinions on firepot/forge construction...

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I've ended up using a modified version of the BP that Glenn referenced in my "Frustrating" thread...I still could not find a reasonable source for the 2" black pipe...so I am using exhaust pipe that I already had in a Jeep that I am rebuilding...I won't be using all of the old exhaust...so I am cutting off what I need.

Here is a pic of the firepot that I am setting up...but instead of using a cut down barrel...I am using a rim.

Looking for opinions...I am thinking that the rim area can be used for extra fuel to be fed into the firepot...and I will weld the holes on the rotor closed.



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You'll probably need to weld some kind of grate over the 2in. hole in the rotor, to keep your fire from falling down the air tube. One of the easiest ways I know is to weld one or two 1/4 in. bolts across the opening,.......creating slots that let plenty of air in and are easily cleaned out when they get clogged.

Also, if you decide you don't like that deep slot around the edge of the rotor,(hooking rakes and pokers on it , etc) Mix up some 'mud pie' consistency clay and water and fill in the deep section.

The clay will usually stay in place for quite some time, although at some point I always hook it with the poker and have to re-fix it.

Hope this helps, James

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You mean on the inside...or outside of the rotor for the clay?

Also...would expanded metal grate work well to cover the 2" hole?

I still have to fab up a clean out cover for the bottom of the tuyere. I imagine I will just use the common exhaust cap as has been demonstrated elsewhere.

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Why complicate simple. Just add clay to the wheel rim. Attached are 3 configurations, all using the same twyere set-up from BP0133. Not a duplicate, but the very same twyere. Each configuration burns differently, a broad heat, a concentrated heat etc.

As to the ash dump, see the attached photo. KISS, Keep It Simple So it works.

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Swagedsoul, I was thinking of putting the clay around the outside of the rotor to fill in that trench, but I would not think it's necessary for the performance of the forge.

Yeah, a piece of expanded metal should work to cover the 2 in. hole.The idea is to not constrict the airflow any more than necessary.

The pics Glenn posted are good variations on the wheel forge as well.

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Depending on your forge and how you use it the expanded metal will work great. That's what I have been using in my coal/charcoal forges for about 12-15 years now. It's real fun when I'm billet welding and the grate gets stalagtites on it from the borax---have to take it out and hammer the clinker off it before liting up the next day.

A piece of expanded metal will last me around 20 hours of forging before needing to be replaced. As I scrounge the stuff the cost to me is zero.

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