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I Forge Iron

Blower Restoration


apexmateria

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My first question is, why do you need to remove the fan & handle? It is my experience with refurbishing those old blowers, it does more harm than good by disassembling them. I have gone through at least 6 of them and found out, unless there are gears with missing teeth or bearings/bushings that are completely shot, it is best to give them a good cleaning with kerosene or a 50/50 mix of Dexron automatic transmission fluid and acetone. The reason being is the gears take a set after decades of use and unless you can get them back in the exact same positions there will be problems. 

To answer your questions there should be set screws holding the handle and fan which need to be removed and the shafts have to have the 50/50 mix or a good penetrating oil like Kroil applied to loosen decades of rust & crud. Sometimes they are press fit and a gear puller is needed to break them loose, do not hammer on the shaft which will cause damage.

The question about grease do not use it. They are designed to run in oil with a splash system. Use only enough oil for the lower gear teeth to run in it, which will distribute the oil to all moving parts. Do not over fill it or it will leak like a sieve. I use 80 wt gear oil or chainsaw bar oil with a little STP mixed in.

PS: Bring it by my shop and I will be happy to give you a hand.

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 That's why I love this forum, you guys save me from making mistakes. I'll just finish cleaning up the exterior and put it back together. It still works, I just really wanted to remove a lot of the rust and grime. 

Unfortunately I'm up in Canada so I can't take you up on that, appreciate the offer though. Cheers! 

 

 

Edited by Mod30
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Please don't tag people's names with the @ sign, it causes problems on the forum and makes the mods have to hunt it down and delete it. You'd rather stay off their radar. Honest they work hard enough already keeping things working.

Frosty The Lucky.

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We won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it.

I always wash out the gear box & gears with kerosene to get the old gunk out. Once I took a really, really gunked up Champion to a car wash and used the pressure hose with soap to clean it up. The back spray got more on me than I thought it would so I don't do that any more but it got it clean as new,:) and I had to take a shower when I got home.

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It is your own aesthetic decision.  If it were mine I'd paint it and highlight the letters in a contrasting color.  I recently did one that I painted dark/cherry red with black lettering.  If you don't put some sort of protective finish on it it will re-rust.  Also, I would build a replacement wooden handle for the crank and finish it with linseed oil.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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They were originally painted black.  I personally like to paint the gear because it keeps the item from degrading more acting as a protectant. 

Nearly all items made were painted inside and out especially when cast iron.  

It is interesting when you pull apart a 1907 blower and once the oil scum is removed the paint inside is nearly perfect. 

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With old equipment that may have 100+ years of old oil crud built up inside a good long soak with your favorite solvent for grease and then a wash out/flush to remove any loosened crud can do wonders.  (I know folks who have a 5 gallon metal bucket of kerosene or even diesel.)

The last hand crank I worked on spent at least a month with the gearcase flooded with ATF, (cheap stuff without any leak inhibitors!)  Then I worked it back and forth very gently for under an hour till it was spinning merrily and ready to go back to work.  Being in a hurry is what breaks old equipment and parts are few and far between!

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anyone know how much oil to put in the tray? I assume I fill it the way it's positioned in this picture. so how do I calculate how much volume of oil will be needed to touch the lower gear.

also is it worth spray painting the gears? I just have cheap rust paint. I worry about it coming off then mixing with the oil.

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Hmm. There's a small screw hole around the center of the case, I could feed oil through that using an eyedropper. I think I'll feed in a small amount for now then keep an eye out for any leaks and slowly add more each use. 

Dirt floored shop sounds awesome, right now I'm working in a garage and the concrete got all stained for the rust lol. 

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May want to put a tray of kitty litter under the blower then.  A lot of the old equipment was not designed to be oil tight as the lubricants were not designed for long lives and so "flow through" oiling was common.  Hence why so many jobs for "oilers" were part of the workforce back when. (I remember a 1914?teenage male oriented series of books: the Aeroplane Boys??????? where they built their own plane and it included a person who did nothing but keep the engine oiled during flight.)

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^ Very interesting to know about old design choices. I already had a bit of oil leak out. I barely put any in lol.

Good news is it spins freely and is much smoother than before. 

Here are some pics, I'm sure the paint job won't last long :D I might repaint the "heat pipe" that attaches to the forge eventually. Good enough for now! Took 2 1/2 days of work to finish, I spent half that cleaning the garage and banging my head of stuff though. 

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Looks great. You did a very good job. 

It is a major oil leaker.  They make a mess everywhere. 

when I rebuild the Slient 200's I use a sealed bearing but they leak oil too.  Just a little slower. 

It's best to use an old fashioned site oil feeder.. I put them on all the blowers and just add a few drops of oil before each use. 

 

 

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I worked as an oiler on a drag line when a teenager. That was fun but dangerous work with the machinery (gears and cable drums) in motion.

There is no use in painting the gears, the oil will keep them from rusting. Seems to me there should be an oil port with a flip up lid that you use an oil squirt can to oil it.

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