My Dad gave me this he said it came from my grandfathers "collection". I have a project or two that are larger than my gaser and if I could get this back into operation it would save me using the torches to heat the metal. If anyone could ID it and give a few ideas and how to line it and set up a tuyere I would appreciate it. The white bits in the pan are from the lining of my gaser that conveniently fell off this forge the other day.
I have a crank blower I was going to use and more than likely use natural charcoal the hardware store has 20lb bags for 9 bucks.

There are a couple of people who make pretty good tuyere replacement that looks like the original tuyere for that style forge for short money $15-$20.I have used them on a couple of rivet forges I have had and on that I still have and it is 4 years old and I use it a good amount. I delt with wagonwomen. Wagonwomen's is made from steel plate and some other guy makes them out of cast for like twice as much but like I said I have yet to burn out the $14.00 plate one. For the blower connector you could use a cast T fitting or a cast T/Y fitting. As for linning I think you will find a split camp here, some line them and some don't. I lined mine because stamped right in to the pans of the candy otto's it says " line before using" so I did. Now with that said the linning has always been a pain in the bum for me, it spalls, cracks, shrinks and big chunks fall out but I at some point get the mixture just right now if I would just write it down.:confused:

There is a special Sanitary Tee that has two 90* across from each other and another 2" hub 90*feed. The cross "T" can be used to make a clinker breaker. The other 2" is for your blower. I have 4 on order and I have both kinds of tuyere plates. 6 cast iron and one or two of the stamped steel. The other 90* tuyere sold by wagonwomen is also a sanitary "t"- you just have to know which company makes them- I have 3 ordered. That will give me some spare and what I need to do the castiron "Skillet Forges." If you need help, let me know.mike

Now with that said the linning has always been a pain in the bum for me, it spalls, cracks, shrinks and big chunks fall out but I at some point get the mixture just right now if I would just write it down.:confused:

Dave, at the top of the "Blacksmithin'" forum there are "stickies", the second one has an excellent formula for a forge liner. The 'sticky' was posted by HWooldridge. Hope this helps.

I will give that mixture a try next time I have to reline a pan. Thanks

Unfortunately there were probably hundreds of manufacturers who made forges, (many small foundries made them) and a lot of them are not marked. Why is the ID needed? Doesn't affect how a forge works!

All the ID I'm looking for is what type of work it would have been commonly used for.

rivet
farrier

Rivet and farrier forges were generally (not always) round. Square and rectangular were generally (not always) shop forges. I'd say it's a small shop forge and put it in my shop.

Frosty

Edited August 4, 200817 yr by Frosty