I am building a stand for a new anvil and have decided on a three legged stand. I have been trying to figure out what size top plate I should use. I already have some 3/4 plate. Is that thick enough or should I purchase something thicker? I also wonder how people prefer the size of their top plate relative to their anvil. Close fitting to get up close and personal or larger to provide room for tool storage? Thanks.

3/4" is fine I'd do it close and bolt or weld a tool rack around it. Perhaps put a pipe ay one corner to mount a swinging tool rest or stand.

Additional information:

The arm and hammer anvil is 145 lbs. I mostly do lighter work like knives, tooling, and decorative stuff but will occasionally do stuff that is probably a bit big for my capability. I have a rather small work space at 8 by 12 feet. I consider this set up a portable unit with the option to work out in the yard if the weather is nice. I found a plate I forgot about shortly after posting this. I have available 1x13.5x23 and .75x12x16. The anvil base is 9.5x11.

My three legged stand is the lightest of all my stands and so is a  travel stand used for 134# HB or 165# HB or PW. I think it's plate is around 1/4" to 3/8 thick. I gave away a 200# stand welded up from heavy plate that came with my 165# PW. It was the wrong height, very loud, 4 legged and so rocked.  I hope the fellow who thought it would be perfect for him was right; but I never  regretted getting rid of it---especially when I had to  move! 

If I was going to use it in 1 spot I would drill the stand and then drill and tap holes into the anvil base and bolt it on from below to quiet the anvil down and make more of a surprise for any thief.   Since mine Travels; I traced the base curves of the anvil I use the most with it onto some scrap 2x? and cut them out and drilled and bolted them from the bottom of the stand.  The anvil drops between them and is easily put on/taken off. (I also like to have some wood handy for the "that's not really hot" folks.  Nothing like smoke and flames erupting when you touch the work piece to wood to change their minds.  Never once had anyone take me up on my offer to let them lick it after that display...)

My 125# farriers anvil stand is 4 legged and built from 3/4" angle iron. Top built for a close fit to the anvil.

For traveling, I mounted a 70# Trenton on a three leg base. I can walk the assembly on the legs to where I will be demonstrating. The three legs are 3" Thin wall tubing. The legs are tied together towards the bottom for rigidity. The base of the Trenton is secured to the bottom frame which is two "U" beams welded together.

Problem, Forging with a 1'1/2# -  2# hammer results in the anvil and stand walking a short distance with each hammer blow. When the anvil has walked about 1', I return it to the "start" position.

Tentstakes for the feet?

Welcome to the "Dance of the unsecured anvil stand". I learned it well during my farrier daze.

I've done a lot of modifications to my steel stand over time. I think either plate you have would work for you ( I think mine is only 1/2" thick and it works fine). The 3 leg tripod works really good on uneven surfaces - especially outside in the yard. My stand has 6" long 3"x 1 1/2" rectangular tubing welded on the bottom of the feet and digs in well in my yard - after a dozen hits or so it stops trying to move/walk. On my concrete shop floor it will move though but not dramatically from the friction of the area of the feet. My only recommendation would be not to skimp on the braces between legs - use at least 1/4" thick angle iron so the legs are stiff. I've posted pics before of my stand at some point - I added one I had handy so you don't have to search it.

I like the removable vise mount on your anvil stand

you now have a 3rd hand when you need it

With a very firm grip!!

That is "tdriack"'s post. I agree that the vice is a great addition. I have the perfect "Leg" vice to add to the tripod anvil mount. However, it will be added off the rear of the anvil at a distance so it won't interfere with any work pieces. The vice will have a leg with a socket for the vice leg. the vice will be easy to remove or mount as needed..

Another option is to make a machinist vice mount in the Hardy Hole. I have seen this at the Vesterheim when Tom Latane was demonstrating.

On ‎10‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 8:27 PM, tdriack said:

I've done a lot of modifications to my steel stand over time.

 

Great solution. This is giving me more incentive to mount a post leg vise near anvil height.

Edited November 28, 20196 yr by Mod30
Trim excessive quote.