Jon Kerr Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Hi all, I'm looking for some advice and a bit of a sanity check regarding a workshop design. I'm fortunate enough to have space at the bottom of my garden for a 5x3m workshop. Originally my intention was to build a concrete block workshop on a concrete foundation. I was planning to build a forge inside, with a side-draw flue. Once I started to do my research regarding ventilation, and on reading other posts on this forum, I've been scared off of this due to the threat of carbon monoxide poisoning. I'm currently forging completely outdoors so its not been an issue so far. Do most people forge in a kind of "open" sided shop/lean-to? Surely the "blacksmith-shops-of-old were indoors? I'm a bit baffled by this. Furthermore, the cost of the concrete base is proving to be prohibitive. As such, I'm looking towards some of the really nice log cabins you can buy and planning to place it on a lighter concrete raft (after taking advice from many sources). As such, my latest plan is to build a timber log-cabin workshop with my forge under a lean-to on the side of the building, with a flue running through the lean-to roof to allow for a side-draft hood. Unfortunately thats less than idea in terms of exposure to the wind and rain, and noise for my poor neighbours.... I'd prefer to forge indoors if I can understand what level of ventilation might be acceptable? Obviously both methods will need appropriate fireproofing around the forge and anvil with cementboard etc, fire extinghuisher and running water on hand...... So, in summary, my two questions are: - Can I safely forge indoors with a side draft hood and double doors open? - Any tips for forging in/near a timber workshop safely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 11 minutes ago, Jon Kerr said: - Can I safely forge indoors with a side draft hood and double doors open? Yes. 11 minutes ago, Jon Kerr said: - Any tips for forging in/near a timber workshop safely? Don't set the wood on fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Kerr Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 Sorted, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Hard for you these days but here in the states we can still buy Borax which makes a dandy fire resistant wash for floor and walls. Or you can sheathe walls with sheet metal---doesn't need to be very thick. Traditionally they did forge indoors; in buildings that were not very air tight at all and often using forges that are enclosed on 5 sides with a chimney to exhaust all the fumes. We tend to like our creature comforts a lot more these days... I live in what tends to be a hot clime and the openness and ventilation are a plus! (Land is cheap too...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 The big concern with Carbon monoxide stems mostly fro propane forges, they generate a LOT. Solid fuel forges produce CO but not in the same quantities nor do they literally blow it out the doors. A solid fuel forge and side draft hood allows you to watch the exhaust from the fire, smoke and flame being sucked out of the shop. You'll need ventilation of course but you don't need to work under a lean to or outdoors to be reasonably safe. As already mentioned borax makes a good fire retardant, just spray a saturates solution on flammable surfaces. Lacking borax there are other flame retardants. A layer of tin or sheet rock on spacers between the fire and flammables like the walls is usually more than enough. Regardless of how or what you build your shop your #1 safety device is YOU. Keep track of the fire and hot objects, stock of course but there are tongs and fire tools as well. One of the most devious little mischief makers are pinch offs, those little bits you trim off a project with chisel or hardy and a hammer. If they don't fall right at your feet there's no telling where they'll bounce, roll and hide. A leisurely shut down, pick up and sweep period at the end of sessions is a good practice. Open the doors to let the shop air out while you put stuff away and clean up. With the air clear you have a better chance of smelling smoldering materials and doing a thorough pick and sweep up gives you time to look at everything. Make sense? Oh, don't forget the CO detector/alarm. You're going to be okay with a little common sense and basic precautions. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Kerr Posted March 18, 2019 Author Share Posted March 18, 2019 Great advice thanks Frosty + Thomas. Feel much more reassured. I cannot WAIT to build this shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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