Will an axe head work decently well as a hot cut? I seem to remember someone on this forum mentioning that they had done it, but I can't find it now despite much searching. The main reason I'm wondering is because I got a Douglas axe head (if Douglas happens to be a sought after brand, please let me know before I potentially modify it irreversibly) for free in a box of rusty tools, that I don't really have any other use for.

If there are no problems with using an axe head as a hot cut, what would be a good option for mounting it upright? Would encasing all but the top few inches in a block of cement be a viable option?

Thanks!

Dunno about Douglas brand axe heads. But yes, an axe head can work as a hot cut. Don't like the idea of concrete. It would be better to be mounted in a stump and removable. Also could be clamped in a vise. 

What Daswulf said.

I don't have a vise meant to withstand hammering yet, so clamping it in a vise isn't an option. Could you elaborate on what would makes the cement a bad idea? I'm not doubting that you're right, just trying to better understand this type of thing for the future.

I suppose that leaves me with your recommendation of mounting it in a stump. I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong) that you mean to carve a slot into the stump that the back of the axe head fits into snugly. The possible problem I see with this option is that since the axe head is  shaped like a wedge. Wouldn't this make it be able to wobble back and forth in the carved hole, making it difficult to cut metal with?

Thanks for the help!

While concrete could work it is likely to crack or break around the axe head. Plus having it removable is good since you might need to to dress it. 

Yes that was one thought with cutting a slot in the stump. You could tighten the axe head in with a wedge to take up any irregular gap.  

Another option would be to heat and reshape the back of the axe head to be more square to fit better.

Yet another option (if you had access to a welder) could be to weld a spike on the back and drive it in. (You would want to use a block of wood across the grain invetween the hammer and axe edge. )

 

 

If you have access to a welder and have an anvil with a hardy hole you can just weld some square stock on the poll that fits your hardy hole and you're done.  Otherwise Das's spike suggestion is a good option.

Unfortunately I don't have a welder, but adding wedges does seem like it would work. I'll see what I can do.

Buzzkill, the anvil I have is missing its heel, so no hardy hole.

Thanks!

Would this be a single bit, or a double bit?  in other words, one cutting edge, or two?

It's a single bit.

Then you could put a rod (or "strap") through the eye and lag bolt it down to a "stump".

Where in Mass are you located?  You do have an anvil? 

I'm in central Mass. I do have a 180# (stamped 213#) Wilkinson Queens Dudley anvil, but the heel was broken off at some point in it's life. The rest of it is still in decent shape, so the only main features it's missing are the hardy and pritchel hole.

Well I'm in central mass..  

We can swim around all day if youd like..

I'm trying to find out where you are so I can help..

I'm in rutland mass which is geographically center from what I have been told..

17 hours ago, Chelonian said:

I'm in central Mass.

If Jennifer was offering to meet up and help me out I'd be jumping at the chance.  If you aren't comfortable giving out more detailed info on the forum send her a PM, but do not miss out on this opportunity if it's anywhere near a viable option for you.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8WRbArfgi8kSaDek7kh_1Q

Here is the Youtube page..  This has a whole bunch of videos on it.   This will give you some reference as to what or who I am.. 

 

Buzzkill, I did send a PM to Jennifer. I just don't like being too exact about my location on an open forum. Hopefully that's understandable.

Thanks!