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I Forge Iron

How did I do? 1st Anvil


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I've been in shops my whole life but am just getting to the position to try to put my own together and broaden my skill set. I fumbled my way into being able to take a trip to an out of town scrap yard with a buddy yesterday and came across this anvil at what I thought sounded like a decent price. Unfortunately we were pressed for time and I was a little uneducated about how to really examine it so I took what I thought was an educated gamble.

After we got home I've done some reading and think I'm ok but I'm curious if I should look into getting the edges cleaned up or "restored" (I'm leaning toward no for what it's worth) and any other info or suggestions the crowd here has outside of "heat up some metal and put it to use!" 

I just took a wire brush to it to knock some of the pollen and dirt off of it before the pics. I'm sure a cup brush on an angle grinder and some oil would help tremendously.20180326_182049_HDR.thumb.jpg.748474694883742b162f7ea6aef540e5.jpg

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The edges are SUPPOSED TO BE ROUNDED!   Making them sharp leaves cold shuts in your work; please reference the many times I have quoted that section from Richardson's "Practical Blacksmithing".  Having them "restored" may take an anvil in very good using condition and making it a piece of scrap.  (Being an expert welder or machinist does not mean one knows how anvils are made and repaired I've seen anvils badly damaged or destroyed for smithing by such experts trying to "fix" them. )  Note it's generally a BAD idea to be making changes before you KNOW what is needed.

As to judging a found anvil: search out the ball bearing test and that type of anvil should have a clear ring when you tap it with a hammer.  As mentioned that anvil looks very good; the ball bearing test will show if it was ever de-tempered in a structure fire. (If it doesn't ring then there is a hidden crack in it---then make a stand that kills the ring as hearing aids can  cost more than a car these days!)

 

So you did very well indeed---depending on price and test results (and location)

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Daswulf, hey thanks, I forgot to mention the markings, but you are correct it does say Peter Wright Patent. It doesn't have the circular "Solid Wrought" stamp I've read is usually on the Peter Wright anvils. Not sure what that's about, maybe someone here does or I'll figure it out as I read more. Regardless, I'm looking forward to putting it to use!

ThomasPowers I haven't come up with a ball bearing yet, but a ball peen hammer gives an ear piercing ring across it. Hopefully once I can come up with a bearing I'll be able to come up with a more solid examination. 

As the pictures show, there are some pretty rough spots along the sides but I don't know I want to change it though.

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Many times the imperfections on an anvil edge can be used as a feature in working steel. I have all kinds of different " conditions" on the edges of my anvils and depending on what I'm doing or making they can help with the work. 

If you ever do need a sharper edge you can always make a block to go in the hardy hole to use for that. 

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Welcome aboard B glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the gang live within visiting distance.

SWEET score! A wire brush and a little oil or wax on the body and apply hot steel and hammer t her face will put her in fine fettle soon. My only concern with the edges is a chip that looks like there's still a piece that might come off. It's on the edge closer to the horn with the horn on the left. If that chip is loose or close to it I'd be really tempted to take a chisel and pop it off before it got knocked off in use. Chips can come off at seriously dangerous speed and you're standing about 4' away. If it's close to breaking off I'd slip a small sharp cold chisel laid almost flat under it along the fracture, lay a rag over it to act as a scatter shield and strike the chisel with a hammer. 

Don't take that as anything but my opinion looking at a pic on a computer screen, I don't have it in hand for a close look. The pic just makes me a little jumpy is all and I'm a cautious guy.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Haha, Realtree, unfortunately I can't take credit for that one. I took those when we got back to my buddy's house. Funny catch though.

 

Frosty thanks for the welcome and cautious eye. That's certainly one of the spots that had me considering having it worked on, though for different reasons. I'll definitely look more closely at it.

 

ThomasPowers thanks.. I'm hoping to be in a similar spot in a few decades!

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ThomasPower more specifically I was taking about going to be telling someone about my first PW but I'd love to see your setup!

I

tried to get a few more photographs of that spot in better light. It looks solid to me but I'm open to the opinions of more educated eyes.

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After quite a bit of wire brushing, some ATF and a little chalk she's pretty but ready for some hot steel

 

For future reference to anyone that comes across this post researching, I found out that the missing "Solid Wrought" under the  PETER WRIGHT PATENT stamp dates this one as manufactured between 1852 and 1860 (Second hand info from Anvils in America by Postman - of course)

Pretty neat to own something besides the dirt and rocks out in the yard that predate the Civil War. 

 

I'll check back in once I find a ball bearing, but a second round with a larger ball peen (pein) hammer has me convinced it's sound. How "alive" it felt really surprised me - though I admit I may just be biased/smitten.

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I spotted another stamp I haven't been able to get definitive info for. It's an 8 under the horn (see pic). I've read speculation that it may have been an inspectors number/approval but I thought I'd see if any of you knew more surely, just for curiosities sake.

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Yeah, that's a little easier to read. Use a light ball pein or smooth faced hammer to do a rebound test, big is not better in this case. With a little experience rebound testing with a light hammer is just as informative. We refer to the % of rebound when using a bearing because you can't feel it like you can with a hammer in your hand.

When you're working at the anvil everything is speaking to you, your eyes aren't the most informative either. The sound tells you volumes about the working condition of the steel. The feel in your holding hand tells you about condition and movement as does the feel and rebound of the hammer.

If you understand what your hands and ears are telling you you don't need to work in dim light once you go to the anvil you can feel when it's time to go back in the fire and that's a gross evaluation, not one of the subtle ones. Your eyes tell you when to take it out of the fire so don't leave them on the kitchen table. :rolleyes:

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty, good info and I completely get it. Very well said. I found and tried a pretty small bell pein hammer and got a good response. Also, for kicks a took a photo with the hammer laying on it to play with the perspective... Is it a giant anvil or small hammer (assuming you don't know anything about English hundred weight, anvils, etc)?

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As promised, I think the results of the ball bearing test were good. I took and posted a video if any of you would confirm my findings, but it looks like 85-90% or so pretty much across the whole face. 

The video ends pretty neat too in my opinion, but I won't spoil it.

Let me know w that you think!

 

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I agree she looks to be in the 85-90 range except that last bounce, that looked to be closer to 95.

Love the ending. SWEET old lady you have there you can brag about her to your grand kids kids. While you teach them to work on her. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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