After reading everything on here and watching tons of you tube videos.  I am kind of wanting to build myself a big box of dirt.  Thankfully I have a home depot right next door to me so yea wood and supplies are no issue with in less than walking distance.   But I still have a bunch of fire brick 4 by 9 inches.  So I could still technically use that along with the fire clay if I can find a source here local where I can get it.  That would be my only downfall.  So with that being said I will probably build myself a nice little box of dirt as well as my break drum forge.  So I have back ups at least.  Don't think I'm just going to throw away my break drum  OHH no.  I'm curious is to if I could incorporate that to still be the fire box or would that even work.   I am going to build a BOD this month.  So hopefully I can get forging soon with my break drum forge as well.  I did a test run on it today with yes bbq coal.  The airflow does pretty well with the shop vac but I am considering investing in something different that is a lot quieter as so it doesn't disturb the neighbors.  Does anyone have any great suggestions thanks.

Edited February 20, 20188 yr by Mod34
Moved to proper section

Note the hair dryer did not supply enough air

Read the JABOD posts again to answer most of your current and future questions. Look for the suggestions on using NEW kitty litter. The hair dryer should work, and there are many other suggestions listed as well. 

All this is not rocket science, just a hole in the ground raised up to a comfortable working height. And no one ever said you could only have one forge. But you need one to work before you build a second forge. JABOD is the simplest design and easiest to build. 

That’s actually the design that I’m going to be doing going to raid the Home Depot scrap bin in the morning.

Further experimenting with the JABOD forge indicates a slight change to the fire bowl shape. As to fire brick and fire clay, the fire brick can be dry set and backed with soil if you want something that is a bit more durable, but be aware I have melted hard fire brick used to bank the fire in the Mark II (the posted design) forge

As to clay, the original uses clay rich soil as that’s what is under foot here in my yard, a leaner mix would be better for most applications, but I wouldn’t really go out of my way looking for commercial bagged clay as most mineral soil will work, in fact just pouring new cheep cat litter in dry and forming a fire bowl against a bellows wall of dry stacked brick will work just fine. Our British brothers and sisters use fly ash and clinker to fill there side blast forges and simply shape a nerd fire bowl each time they build a new fire

7 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said:

Further experimenting with the JABOD forge indicates a slight change to the fire bowl shape. As to fire brick and fire clay, the fire brick can be dry set and backed with soil if you want something that is a bit more durable, but be aware I have melted hard fire brick used to bank the fire in the Mark II (the posted design) forge

As to clay, the original uses clay rich soil as that’s what is under foot here in my yard, a leaner mix would be better for most applications, but I wouldn’t really go out of my way looking for commercial bagged clay as most mineral soil will work, in fact just pouring new cheep cat litter in dry and forming a fire bowl against a bellows wall of dry stacked brick will work just fine. Our British brothers and sisters use fly ash and clinker to fill there side blast forges and simply shape a nerd fire bowl each time they build a new fire

Well at this rate I'm going to wind up with 2 forges.  Which will be a decent thing.  So one box of dirt and one break drum.  How ever I still have to acquire some hardware along with the anvil I have to get I cant really get one for free so I have to go with a cheap 55 pounder from Harbor Freight it should suffice for now.  Some of the tools I plan on making my tongs I can get from the ferrier store and well yea the hammer from harbor freight but I'm getting close to getting started except for my box of dirt lol but I have my break drum.

2 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

I still have to acquire some hardware along with the anvil I have to get I cant really get one for free so I have to go with a cheap 55 pounder from Harbor Freight it should suffice for now.

For the sixty-five bucks that HF charges for a 55 lb ASO (anvil-shaped object), you can get a serious chunk of scrap steel that will outperform anything made of cast iron -- with money left over. Please read this thread:

 

^------- what he said. Please don't waste money on a hf anvil shaped object. A larger sledgehammer head will long outlast a cast iron anvil shaped object and be way better to forge on. Read that thread. dont be fooled by the shape. 

  I don't like spending money if I don't have to.  If it saves me money even if its a few bucks thats even better.  I'm still actually collecting tools for my newish house so yea even getting tools for forging and I can save money on it even better.  I just wish I never sold the anvil that I made for a class project.  D"OH

Look at all these anvils.   

6" rule for size. 

Seriously, a sledge hammer head from the flea market will be better than a cast iron door stop. Most machine shops have drops that they have been tripping over that will make you a good anvil. 

Hey I'm all about cost saving Im a DV on a limited income and you guys are givin me some great ideas much appreciated.