Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Post Vise Clean-up

MC Hammer

Recommended Posts

I bought this post vise from a friend for $50.  His dad had it in his shop for years and didn't use it.  Here's the before picture:



Here's a few pictures after a few hours of cleaning and greasing:







I really thought this was a Columbian until I cleaned it up.  I'm thinking now that it is a Frankenstein being a combo of many different post vise parts.  The screw box has the square stop on it yet the body does not have the square cut-out for the stop.  Thing the screw is in really good shape except for a crack where the handle slides through the ball end.  I'll have to watch that crack and have it welded if it becomes a problem.  It's definitely not drop forged but the body looks like wrought iron.  I had to grind off the checkered pattern from the jaws as they had not seen much use at all.  The spring will need to be heated up and re-bent in order for it to work properly.  I'd be open to suggestions as to who the maker of this vise is.  There are no markings anywhere on this thing except the number 4 under the mounting plate and what looks like a 35 on one of the jaw tops.  Any ideas as to the maker????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well.... maybe not a Frankenvise but possibly one with a purchased replacement box and screw set.  Replacement box and screw sets were sold a bunch of years ago by Centaur Forge, and prior to that replacement box and screw sets were advertised as available.  ..... Also, check for a square ridge along the top of the box that may or may not match a notch on the inside top of the hole where the box passes through the back of the vise.  

vise boxes and screws.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David, thanks for the info.  The holes inside the vise body that except the box and screw look forged as the do not have a square section in them to accept the square section on the box. Weird, even my PW has that and it's one of the older ones.  I wasn't aware they sold the box and screws back in the day.  Wouldn't it be wonderful if some guy was cleaning out his family's oldtime hardware store and found 15 or 20 replacements still in the box ?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

Greebe - Yes a wire wheel on a grinder.  Be gentle with the pressure and just let it take off the surface rust.  Then wash it with soap and water, dry it really good, and finish with a coat of new motor oil to stop the rusting process.  You can coat it with boiled linseed oil or some people even spray them with clear acrylic.  I find the motor oil is cheap and easy to do.  I used the same process on my anvil.  It keeps that wonderful patina that has taken so many years to do yet keeps you from having something that looks like a rusty piece of crap.  Truly, all you need to do is clean the screw and box, lube up the screw and use the post vise.  Rust doesn't affect how it functions.  Me personally, when people see my set-up I like my equipment to look like it has been cared for well as it adds some value to your smithing work.  Just my humble opinion.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...