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New flypress stuck tooling


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So i finaly got down to builiding tooling for my new flypress . I did find a reasonably priced tool holder online. So with my new tool holder installed i was hand fitting the shaft of my first tool to the 1" scocket on the tool holder . The shaft s i am making are from precsion ground 1" 1018 stock with shaft collars welded on.  The shaft slid in eaisily by hand then stuck fast , i tried at this point to remove tge tool as i assumed some fitting might be necicary but i could not remove the tool shank from the holder i removed the tool holder from the press and clamped it in a vise and i still could not get the tool to budge i hoped twisting might get it to move but that did not do much eaither at this point i decided to clamp it in the drill press and attempt to drill a hole down the center of the shaft so i could tap it out from the back side the drilling went well nice and straight as i had the dead center from the lathe to follow but i still could not get the tool unstuck once i had access from the back. So i finally tried heating the tool holder to about 500 f hoping thermal expantion might help ..... still no luck
What did i do wrong? 
My shaft was precition ground 1018 i realize there may be a little size difference that is why i was hand fitting the tool to the holder before use and here i am still stuck .
Any ideas would be helpful i am kinda sad that my 65$ tool holder is now more of a permenant spacer on my bending jig 
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If shaft collars were welded on after precision grinding, possible that expansion and/ or distortion of the shaft is causing binding?

Know anybody with a gear puller? (3 jawed medieval torture device looking thing). I used one at work to free a stuck bearing.

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I actually tried that  as well with a 1/4" pin down the bore hole to push it out with the torque  from the puller all i did was split the pin i made for the porpose i did not mention as i dont think i got any real leverage before the pin failed

(fractured at the contact piont betwee the puller an pin)

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I did not try it with the press i got stuck before that i was hand fitting the shaft into the tool holder the ram was locked in the up position the whole time 

That is why i am so confused i managed to get this stuck by hand 

the shaft was 1 1/4  the bore was 11/2  deep it should not be possible to bottom out eaither way 

I agree that would be bad i am trying to figure out how i managed to botch this while i was doing evreything to avoid the situation you just mentioned. 
I can see the distortion of the shaft as a posibility as to why it was a bit tight but that is why i did not trust it to use th press untill i had the tool all the way into the tool holder to the collar with an easy slip fit (or that was my goal ) before i got it stuck
is it bossible the bore was taped narrower twards the end ?
i guess i don' t know my own strength 
Thanks for your help 
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Greetings Dueulear,

            Weld a thick 1 in washer on your tool , secure the tool holder than an air chisel at washer to remove. This will scrap your tool but save your holder.. There is no need for your tools to be so close tolerance a fit into the holder. 

Press on and make beautiful things 


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You didn't give it enough clearance and it wedged. It will come right out, do NOT try drilling and tapping a hole for some kind of extraction device! It's wedged and a dry steel on steel wedge ain't coming out that way. Are you familiar with a Morse taper on a drill press or lathe tail stock? It is a connection that is a matched male and female taper you slide in with a LITTLE bump and it's locked. it's strong enough you can snap large, say 1 1/2" twist drills without budging the taper. The way they come apart is with a wedge driven behind the taper or by the tail stock quill bottoming out, the male taper having a tongue that acts as the bumper.

To remove your wedged die, warm the female holder with a Bernzomatic torch Gently while keeping a steady pull on the die. It won't take a lot of heat so don't get carried away all it needs do is expand a couple thousandths of an inch and it'll fall out.

Then take your file to it again and before you try it again make sure both are room temp and have your torch handy. If you jump on it quickly enough you can get it free with maybe a 50* increase in temp. However, the longer they're wedged the more likely they'll weld and that's a . . . badness thing.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Since you have a hole in the back now you could put a grease nipple or zerk as you guys call them and hydrulic out it with a grease gun most lever type grease guns will develope up to 10000 psi. I also agree with Frosty but you have to heat the female part quickly or they both expand if they both heat at the rate Cheers Beaver

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So this morning i tried heat again with cold parts no good

i then thought to make a wiper plate as i was planning to do so anyway for punching heavier stock i could then in tgeroy use the press to pull it apart 

this did not work as the set screw in the press slipped first with only a gentile nudge 

so i tried jim's idea to use an air hammer next i did not need to weld a washer as the tool i had stuck was the top die for bending a right angle and i made it 3 1/2 inches wide just in case i need to bend somthing wider someday.. any way 30 + minutes of air hamnering later she finnaly broke free 

thanks jim and evryone else for the great ideas i cleaned up the tool holder and believe it or not the tool is still good too ground a few thosandths off the shank with the belt sander to make a nice loose fit and she is good as new. 

Thanks again


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