Joel Kientz Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Happened to see this hammer at Tractor Supply yesterday and I thought it looked like it could make a decent rounding hammer. It has a flat side and a rounded side. The rounded side looks like it has too sharp of a radius, but that could probably be fixed with a grinder. I'm not crazy about the fiberglass handle, but that could also be replaced. The head looks to be of good quality, yet the hammer is really cheap ($18.99) Anyone have any thoughts? Mod note: Link removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Can you use a 4 pound hammer extensively without damaging your arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Kientz Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 Probably not extensively, but I think it could be useful to have one. They also make a 3lb version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 What do you need a large rounding hammer for? In general I only use a straight or cross peen and the flat face on heavier hammers when forging. (save for heavy dishing hot and I have a boilermakers hammer for that) I get my hammers at the fleamarket and try to pay under US$8 at the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Go over to the horse shoeing tool display on the other side of the store, pay the $50 for the 2# Diamond one they sell if your dead set on buying a rounding hammer. I build a 4#, ended up rehandling it do Sandy could use it to strike. I do have a set of 3# double jack's from harbor freight I modified that I use on the shop anvil, but I use my 2# rounding hammer and other lighter hammers most often. Work on your technique and work with a longer handle (cup the head in your hand and the handle should reach the inside of your elbo. The big rounding hammers are useful, if you choke up most of the time, then you don't need to switch to a hand sledge to do the initial set downs to block out a project, but most of us don't swing a hammer all day to develop the strength anc control. Second the handle is a poor desighn. For smithing you will find that a smith wooden handle is best, reshaped to have a rectangular handle. A bit smaller profile is a lot less fatiguing than the fat jobs that com stock, and you just can't shape the plastic ones. Work on your technic. If you raise the hammer overhead and guid it down to your target and apply a little flick at the end a 2# hammer will move steel surprisingly well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-1ToolSteel Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 From the picture, it looks like you will need to grind on at least one face, so why not just buy a regular 4 lb hammer? Wood handled ones are all over the place, and you can grind one face round to fit your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I picked one of these up at a garage sale, I wanted the two pry bars for a dollar but they bundled in two hammers so I gave them another dollar. The 4lb. drill hammer doesn't have that much crown and after dressing it's not a bad hammer. I don't want a hammer that heavy often enough to bother with rehandling it. I've found it's most useful, so far, for driving top tools. I have better, MUCH better hammers to forge with. I see 2 lb. drill hammers at garage, yard, etc. sales regularly for a buck or so. If I didn't already have a couple rounding hammers I'd grind a garage sale drill hammer and rehandle it. You see these Stanley 4 lb. drill hammers in big box stores for around $20. all the time. I think they'd make a useful general duty reasonably heavy and easier to use than a single jack sledge hammer for the home tool box. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockstar.esq Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 I agree with Frosty about using heavy hammers with top tooling. I built a guillotine tool that uses 2" x 1/2" stock for dies. The top die runs roughly 6". I was really surprised at how much energy it takes to overcome the inertia of the dies. I have a 6lb hand hammer that's really good as an uphand sledge for a striker. Even a small person can work the heats without wearing themselves out. Since tennis elbow/ blacksmiths elbow set in this spring, I've been sidelined. I'd recommend steering clear of anything that puts undue wear and tear on your elbow. I have a new appreciation for how long it can take for tendons to heal. Once my elbow was injured, it was tough to get anything done without making it worse. Even after protracted rest and physical therapy, it's easy to "anger" the injury with a hammering motion. When I was younger I could swing heavy framing hammers all day without any trouble. Now when I see those super lightweight titanium headed framing hammers, I understand why old pros pay so much for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 Rock*; I found that when I was recovering from BE that I could forge CP1&2 titanium as it was so soft under the hammer I could use a very small hammer indeed and my elbow didn't notice I was sneaking some forging in on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I got tennis elbow on my tong side! Death grip on the tongs I gues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Kientz Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 What I am currently using is a (dressed) Vaughn 2 1/2 lb cross pein with a wood handle and it is working for me. It is just going to take time to perfect my technique so it doesn't take so many heats to block out a project as Charles stated. Thanks for all the feedback! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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