paradox1559 Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 I have finally started building my guided helve hammer. I'm very limited in my funds, so I have to work with what I have. I am not trying to win any beauty contests, I'm just trying to get by until I find a proper hammer. Nothing is welded yet, I think the base is too wide in the current picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 I realise the anvil post needs to weigh more than the hammer. However I can't afford a solid hunk of steel. Is there a temporary alternative that I could find in a scrap yard? Perhaps an I-beam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 If you have a way of legally acquiring rail road rail of some length you might try that. That's my plan anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 I have some, but I was going to use it to make dies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I plan on doing that as well. I'll need to aquire more to have enough for both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 The base already weighs 600lb and has a wide footprint, I don't know if that makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I can't comment on that. How big is you column? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I would use that steel in the hammer frame and not a large base. The hammer will need to be bolted down anyways. I know little giants have hollow anvils, my 50 pound did, and i have heard other brands do to. Obviously a solid anvil is best but LG's have moved lots of metal with hollow ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Unfortunately I can't bolt it down, my floor is dirt. That's why i have the large footprint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Pour an inertia block. I have my hammer bolted down on a dirt floor shop. I left the form boards on it to protect the edges. It will also help with an under weight anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 How much concrete did you use? How deep is it? I'm currently unemployed so money is Extreamly tight, I'm just lucky I know my local scrap yard so well.(I really wish they would hire me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 1/2 yard of concrete, 8" deep. My hammer required a 4x6 pad, I would think a rusty would be less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 I have the pivot the way i want it, and it always go back to balanced if I mess with it. Its beginning to feel like a power hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Does anyone have good picture examples of the hammer guide? I can't seem to find many good pictures to go off of. I wonder if an old log splitter would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Pipe in a pipe/Tube in a tube. Usually with UHMW in between with some kinds bolts to adjust the fit between the whole affair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 You said "pipe in a pipe" wouldn't that be to light? Or is it acceptable to fill it with sand? I've finally managed to cut my section or track to make dies. I think I'm gonna leave the vertical pieces and drill through them so the track can be bolted down without obstructing the hammer surface. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS3900 Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 People usually use a piece of solid bar inside a pipe. Pipe in a Pipe would work if you filled it with something I suppose. A lot of these type of hammers I have seen have no UHMW or bushing material. They just stay well oiled and run steel on steel. The life expectancy of the hammer isn't long enough to worry about things wearing out. I wouldn't worry about a concrete pad under it for starters. If it's on a dirt floor drive a stake in around it to keep from moving and try it. Also, that is a good idea on the dies to make them bolt on. RR track dies are more of a drawing die and you will probably find in the future that flat dies are much more useful and want to swap them out as resources become available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 I have another foot of track that I plan to mill into a flat surface. Plasma cutter aside, the pieces I have cut out took a lot of patience. Particularly the track surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcusb Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 Tire hammer rams are filled with lead. If you can spring for it solid is preferable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita I thought about that, I figured track was a bit tricky to weld though. These dies are 6", should they be smaller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 How wide a stock are you planning on working? How big is the hammer and anvil? Side loading will cause wear and stress. The with of the anvil or hammer is about right. The diagonal sets are usualy profiled to provide two working surfaces look at stormcrow's hammer and the knives he turns out. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paradox1559 Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 At the most I think I would max out at 4inches I'm yet, I need to see what kind of stoke I'm going to have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita You could get those countersunk bolt heads and weld them in place from the top. Bolting them that way (nut on the bottom) you don't have to worry about your work hitting bolts not that you should have to worry with it too much anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Drill and tap the anvil, with 1/2 plate one can use countersunk head 1/2" bolts with Allen or torx heads. as to welding, post heat to 500 and let cool slowly (in ash, lime or vermiculite). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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