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I Forge Iron

Ol' rusty build


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I have finally started building my guided helve hammer. I'm very limited in my funds, so I have to work with what I have. I am not trying to win any beauty contests, I'm just trying to get by until I find a proper hammer.

Nothing is welded yet, I think the base is too wide in the current picture.

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I would use that steel in the hammer frame and not a large base. The hammer will need to be bolted down anyways. I know little giants have hollow anvils, my 50 pound did, and i have heard other brands do to. Obviously a solid anvil is best but LG's have moved lots of metal with hollow ones. 

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You said "pipe in a pipe" wouldn't that be to light? Or is it acceptable to fill it with sand?

I've finally managed to cut my section or track to make dies. I think I'm gonna leave the vertical pieces and drill through them so the track can be bolted down without obstructing the hammer surface. 

Thoughts? 

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People usually use a piece of solid bar inside a pipe.  Pipe in a Pipe would work if you filled it with something I suppose.  A lot of these type of hammers I have seen have no UHMW or bushing material. They just stay well oiled and run steel on steel. The life expectancy of the hammer isn't long enough to worry about things wearing out.

I wouldn't worry about a concrete pad under it for starters. If it's on a dirt floor drive a stake in around it to keep from moving and try it. 

Also, that is a good idea on the dies to make them bolt on. RR track dies are more of a drawing die and you will probably find in the future that flat dies are much more useful and want to swap them out as resources become available.

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If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita

I thought about that, I figured track was a bit tricky to weld though.

These dies are 6", should they be smaller?

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If you use a 4"+ square of 1/2" and weld the rail head die diagonal you have room for two bolts on the plate and the stock is now worked diagonal and long stuff clears the upright post. A slot and wedges would work as well, but carving it out would he a pita

You could get those countersunk bolt heads and weld them in place from the top. Bolting them that way (nut on the bottom) you don't have to worry about your work hitting bolts not that you should have to worry with it too much anyway. 

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