Mikey98118 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 You have now achieved a hard neutral flame, with what sane people would consider an acceptable amount of secondary flame; I don't. It is now time for you to decide what path to take. I'm willing to go on coaching you all the way to a perfect flame, however long that takes. Or you can get on with building your forge...with or without my help, as you please. The next step toward a perfect flame will be to enlarge your mixing tube about .020", and try another flame photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxL Posted October 3, 2017 Author Share Posted October 3, 2017 I could probably chuck it back in the lathe and take off .020". It might be a couple of weeks before I can get to it though, I have a lot of work coming up. I also kinda wanna get on to building a forge. I'll see what I have time for over the next couple weeks. I have some 9x4.5x1" heavy fire bricks, could I just make a simple brick pile forge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Why not? Your burner can be placed in the forge and popped right back out to fiddle with between heating cycles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxL Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 I've started a thread about the brick pile forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxL Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 I took off 0.020", what's next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 On 10/3/2017 at 1:55 AM, AxL said: I have some 9x4.5x1" heavy fire bricks, could I just make a simple brick pile forge? Heavy fire bricks are lousy insulators and major heat sinks. Even with the excellent burner you now have, you will still struggle with getting up to forging heat in a reasonable timeframe with heavy brick (not to mention cutting it to size). I usually recommend no more than one half thickness of heavy firebrick for the forge floor and the balance to be constructed of 2600 deg F rated insulating firebrick (soft firebrick). I'm not sure whether Mike has indicated in another post, but a single 1/2" NA propane burner may struggle with forge volumes in excess of 250 cubic inches, especially if they are not well insulated. Note that soft firebrick is somewhat prone to thermal shock as well, so I wouldn't spend a ton on purchasing it if you go that route. I've had better success with high temperature ceramic wool and a refractory coating. The thing that baffles me is you being able to use a 2 psi regulator. Are you certain of you math there? Typical recommendation is for a 30 psi regulator, even if it runs at lower pressure for most operations. Oh, and it looks to me as if your flame is a little rich. Have you tried adjusting the choke to get more air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 48 minutes ago, AxL said: I took off 0.020", what's next? Going back to the photos on the first page of this thread, have you ever got rid of the flat area at the small end of the reducer where the mixing tube and reducer come together? Becuase that ridge is a big impediment to gas/air flow. Bevel those surfaces. It would also help to show the flame in low light (shadow); not in the dark. And yes, the flame improved from your last change. You need to understand that it is very close already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxL Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 10 hours ago, Latticino said: The thing that baffles me is you being able to use a 2 psi regulator. Are you certain of you math there? Typical recommendation is for a 30 psi regulator, even if it runs at lower pressure for most operations. I have not done the math, Mikey did. And there currently is no choke plate, it's running at wide open throttle. 10 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: Going back to the photos on the first page of this thread, have you ever got rid of the flat area at the small end of the reducer where the mixing tube and reducer come together? Yes I got rid of that, the joint is beveled and near seamless. I'll get a photo in slightly better light as soon as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 I'm waiting for the photos and considering your next step. I want enough information to avoid causing you extra effort. There are three different ways to provide that last bit of performance that would give you a perfect flame. (1) Insert a short length (1" long or less) of capillary tube of approximately .028" inside diameter or (approximately 1/2" long of .026" inside diameter in a MIG tip that is drilled or filed from the nearest wire size to fit its outside diameter. This will give the strongest effect, but for that reason is the trickiest option to get just right. (2) Replace the present flame nozzle one with a 1/8" larger inside diameter; this will make less of a change in flow dynamics, and is, therefore, the easiest change to manage for effect. (3) Reverse the outside bevel of your burner's air intake for an inside bevel; this will give the leat improvement for the most work; I would save that for last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AxL Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 Took a while, haven't been in the shop for a while. I have already reversed the bevel on the air intake. I can try the enlarged flame nozzle first. Could i make a new jet by turning one on a lathe? It seems quicker than the capillary tube insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 On 11/25/2017 at 5:08 AM, AxL said: Could i make a new jet by turning one on a lathe? It seems quicker than the capillary tube insert. Yes, you certainly can use a drilled orifice (try .026" ot .028" diameter) ; I would suggest starting at 3/4" long for the gas orifice, and shortening by 1/16" or less at a time, until you are satisfied with the flame, using a 1/8" diameter hole on the rest of the length that a MIG tip would take up, if you were using capillary tube in a copper MIG tip, instead of deep drilling into half hard brass round bar. Understand that you flame is so close to right that it won't take big changes to go the rest of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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