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I Forge Iron

Oliver Upwind burner


blacksmith-450

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I really enjoy making burner. I did the «Oliver Upwind» but I opened the holes along the length.

I also added a sliding choke (not on the picture) but it is useless since I do not need to do any air restriction.

The only adjustment remains the flare.

Since i took the picture I filed the slots for a better look.  The jet is a no.60 hole.

upwindburner1.thumb.jpg.563d4dd7f89642d9cadf7c53a916ee74.jpgupwindburner2.thumb.jpg.b4070c12743e18a96266f16934b1f0b8.jpgupwind1-flame.thumb.jpg.e2fc58a75c7a8d22c51664a091bb6356.jpg

 

 

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I would sure appreciate those flame pictures, and a write up of the changes you made to get from one to the others, on the Burner 101 thread.

Otherwise, they become much harder for people to see at the end of the month, when they will join all the other old files. I want people to see that they don't need a perfect burner design to end up with a great flame. Also they make a fine example of how much, some tweaks in a finished burner can radically change its flame. I can post perfect flames coming out of perfect burners forever, without doing as much good for people who are struggling with tuning problems, as your photos can.

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thank you again for posting this series of flames someplace where people can benefit from them over time.

...now, k If you can somehow be sweet talked into writing up an account of your burner build, my day will be complete. If anyone disagrees with your choice of design or construction methods, let that flame shut their mouths; it certainly shut mine :D

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I am not sure that even by giving the precise specifications, this flame will be reproducible.

I think I understood the main principle of a burner and have be lucky in getting this result. I'll make another one and if the result is close, I'll write the recipe.

I believe the Ron Reil or the T-Burner are better options for someone who wants to get a reliable burner quickly.

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49 minutes ago, (M) said:

For this burner or one like it could I get away with a 1-20 or even 1-10 psi propane regulator?

0-10 or 0-20 ... why do the cheapstake? Buy a 0-30... it's the same price ! 

It will be useful to you for a long time and for several uses.B)

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Those who follow this thread thinking to find an economical burner and easy to do, I will disappoint you. It is much more complicated to do than a Ron Reil or a T-Burner.

Here the comparison:

Holes to drill:

Oliver: 6

Reil: 2

T-Burner: 1

Gas Jet:

Oliver: Hole no60

Reil: Hole no60 or mig tip

T-Burner: fitting + mig tip

Air slots:

Oliver: 2

Reil: 0

T-Burner: 0

Necessary tools :

Oliver: Press-drill, grinder w / cut-off wheel, Welder

Reil: Press-drill

T-Burner: Press-drill, tap 1/8 NPT + tap 1/4 27pitch

Price: Oliver: cheaper in parts... maybe 20$ cheaper...

Disadvantages: Oliver: all parts are fixed against the Reil and the T-Burner which can be unscrewed from the top or bottom. Adjustments are not easy either cut the mixing tube, or file the air slots. This can be long and a process of trials and errors.

My conclusion is that I am lucky to have had acceptable results..... and to have better, I will have to go slowly with the file.

And it is not because we are a blacksmith that we are able to do everything!

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Well, luck or not you have developed the knack of producing hot flames. As to the orange  streaks; my belief is that they are from oxidation of the flame nozzle, which is why they are more severe with mild steel nozzles. In the past, guys have even found these streaks to be more pronounced  with #304 stainless nozzles than with #316; in any case they do no harm.

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Those are a lot closer to 1:12 than the bell reducers you see used successfully on burners. I have to assume the burner can either be tuned to take advantage of that kind of turbulence or has other benefits than we normally use flared nozzles for. Say slowing the flame velocity quickly but outside the burner so it doesn't effect induction adversely. 

I'm always rethinking these things, especially when I see so many successful examples that fly in the face of my rules of thumb.

Frosty The Lucky.

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For this burner or one like it could I get away with a 1-20 or even 1-10 psi propane regulator?

A 1 to 20 PSI regulator; sure; a 1 to 10 regulator? That is pushing things. Each burner size, and type, has a minimum gas pressure it will run on; below that minimum the burner's flame will pulse, as it attempts to burn back down the mixing tube; not good.

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On 7/23/2017 at 10:25 PM, Frosty said:

Those are a lot closer to 1:12 than the bell reducers you see used successfully on burners. I have to assume the burner can either be tuned to take advantage of that kind of turbulence or has other benefits than we normally use flared nozzles for. Say slowing the flame velocity quickly but outside the burner so it doesn't effect induction adversely. 

I'm always rethinking these things, especially when I see so many successful examples that fly in the face of my rules of thumb.

Frosty The Lucky.

Agreed; that's maybe why they are called "rules of thumb" rather than axioms? I'm beginning to cover my bets by calling them tendencies :wacko:

On the other hand, discoveries are always exciting; lots of possibilities with this one!

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