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I Forge Iron

Anvil ID Please


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traditionally made anvils go *TING* when you hit them with a hammer and can be so loud as to hurt your ears---literally, one of the reasons so many smiths went deaf. (Now there are ways to quiet down an anvil and they have been discussed but not cussed on this website at length.)

Fishers go more like "thwap" when you hammer on them and don't need quieting.

I'd use it for a year before doing anything to it and then decide. If you want to have it repaired better get an expert anvil repairer to do the work unless you have mad welding skills and CAN FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPAIRING ANVILS OF THAT TYPE EXACTLY!

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2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

May I commend to your attention the method promulgated by  Robb Gunther and Karl Schuler.

Not to be confused with Gunther Schuller, the prominent 20th century American composer. 

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Welcome aboard William glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the Iforge crew live within visiting distance. Telling us in one post isn't going to stick in our memories longer than it takes to read the next post. It's much better to have it on every one. ;)

Nice anvil, a LITTLE beat up but there's enough good edge left to make it a good working tool. Repairing anvils has a lot of specialized requirements to prevent damaging the high carbon steel face. Just being a professional welder doesn't mean you have the training to do the job properly.  I dito the advice to just use it till you've developed the skills sets to know what you need and want before "repairing" that old lady.

For example if you need a polished face, or a specifically radiused edge, heck ANY bottom die shape, forge, mill, grind, etc. it  up, weld a square shank to it and you have it. (PLEASE don't make me tell you to choose a shank that fits the hardy hole!) I really prefer to weld the shank to the side or end of a bottom tool than try welding it to the bottom like old "real:rolleyes:" bottom tools. I have two GOOD reasons for welding the shank to the side 1, it's WAY less work, stronger and easier. 2, it allows you to place the impact area of a bottom tool closer to or over the sweet spot of your anvil, NOT hanging way out of the heal over the weakest part. The sweet spot is the center of the face over the deepest section. The more steel or iron directly between the hammer and the stand the more effective the work it will do. This is called "The depth of rebound". 

I can go on about why Fishers are so nice and quiet but I have chores. :(

Frosty The Lucky.

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