Millhand Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 One reason I've started my smithing is have piles of steel. Even tool Steel in different forms. One of my known steels at the moment is A8 In the form of used up Chipper knives. No pic tonight but they are .5 thick. Has anyone worked with this air hardening steel? It's amazing how this stuff holds a edge. Tough as well. Ideas on things to make out of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Poet Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I'd try to find a way to make anvil tools out of them. You should be able to make a pretty sweet guillotine tool out of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Wood lathe tools for abrasive woods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hatchets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millhand Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Thanks for the ideas! Says on the data sheet its good for punchs but seems hard at 60rh it's tough I've seen it cold cut all sorts of things a Chipper shouldn't. Like hammers, pry bars hand tools......... It will not cut with a torch. Plasma or abrasive only. Probably be like hammering on cold low carbon but I have lots of it. Old saw blades as well. I've saved most all of them. Worn out Chipper clamps, counter knives, anvils. Time to get this forge heating and stop posting lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millhand Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 One more quick question, alot of this tooling has carbide attached to it somewhere. Does this pose any health issues I should be protected from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 The carbide will soldered on, pop it off and save it. Scrap carbide will run $6-$14 a pound depending on the demand. I bought 451# of solid carbide form drills and saw blades when it was $6, and a year later saw it at $14. I sell it for $30 a pound to those that can reuse it in their machining. New carbide runs over $100 a pound. Depending on the shape, it can be used for things like wear surface on parking lot sweeper skids. We used to braze on old carbide inserts for a company when I had my shop. No health risk, but you risk damaging tooling if you leave it on. You say it will not cut with a torch?!? Sounds more like a stainless alloy than a grade of A-x tool steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millhand Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Thx doc, no it won't cut with a torch. I did a search and came up on information that they where made from a8, I'll call the manufacturer and see if they will tell me what it is. The Simmons saw plates I have will not torch cut ether. That is some amazing Steel as well. It's awinspiring the abuse a 54" plate will take in its life and not crack or show much wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 It has a mess of chromium and some tungsten, so that is probably why it doesn't like a torch. http://ess.elwd.com/product/a8/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 burning off the solder could be a fume issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 A cheat for cutting difficult moderate to high alloy tool steels is to use a steel wire on an edge of the surface as the sacrificial oxidized liquid to initiate the cut. Once you get a kerf established, it should cut a little slower than normal. If not, just keep the wire over the cut line. Old coat hangers, binding wire, stubs of carbon steel stick rods with the flux knocked off, whatever is handy. Will not work at all on thick sections, or true stainless steel or nickel alloys, but half inch thick 5% chromium/2% tungsten should be do-able. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Never heard of using a wire, but I have heard of using a plate on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millhand Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 3 hours ago, John McPherson said: A cheat for cutting difficult moderate to high alloy tool steels is to use a steel wire on an edge of the surface as the sacrificial oxidized liquid to initiate the cut. Once you get a kerf established, it should cut a little slower than normal. If not, just keep the wire over the cut line. Old coat hangers, binding wire, stubs of carbon steel stick rods with the flux knocked off, whatever is handy. Will not work at all on thick sections, or true stainless steel or nickel alloys, but half inch thick 5% chromium/2% tungsten should be do-able. Great tip! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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