Striker 88 idle

[Portuguese]

Good afternoon all

When the hammer is turned on the tup stays down and the dies are touching each other. Is there a way to set the idle so that the ram is at its top position?

I've used it as is for a bit now but as i advance, crawl really, towards more knowledge i would like my equipment to perform at it's peak.

Thank you in advance for all the help and guidance provided.

Sergio

Black Mutt Forge

Altamonte Springs, Fl

[ThomasPowers]

What did the manufacturer say when you asked them this question?

[CMS3900]

What oil are you running in the hammer, and in what shape is the oiling system?  My Anyang (very similar design to the striker) did that when I first got it, and after consulting with James, the Anyang rep for US, I switched to a lighter oil and ran the hammer. It immediately started working itself back up at idle to where it was back to normal. Now it hits hard and works like a champ.

[Portuguese]

11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

What did the manufacturer say when you asked them this question?

Bought used. Haven't been able to locate manufacturers, striker hammers in Us went out of business way before I acquired the machine.

Thank you, I'll try a lighter oil. What weight oil does your Anyang use?

[KRS]

http://www.beautifuliron.com/gs_stc-88_air_hammer.htm

there is a section for oil specifications

[Portuguese]

I've used that document like a users manual, awesome detailed info.

The oil I use is, to the best of my limited knowledge, similar to the type recommend.

[CMS3900]

I actually switched to air-tool oil (CRC Sta-Lube). It's more expensive then cheap oil, but the hammer wasn't cheap to begin with. It's equivalent is ISO 22.  I want to try ISO 32/SAE 10wt. in it the next time, as it is a bit cheaper and see if the performance changes.  This is with one drop every 3-5 seconds.  Comparing this to the oil on the page KRS posted, it is a lot thinner. Chevron Rando HD ISO 220, which is listed on that page as the preferred oil, is as it's stated there a SAE 50wt. oil. For comparison sake, James recommends 30wt Non-Detergent as a starting basis for his hammers. Now this could be due to tolerances in manufacturing, with the Striker being looser than the Anyang but I would still try some lighter oil and turn the oiler all the way up and run the hammer and you should see a difference immediately.

[CMS3900]

One other thing I see is that the Striker sends oil to the front and back cylinders. James now only oils the rear cylinder, and caps the oiler in the front, finding that blowing more volume of a lighter oil through from the back to the front of the hammer worked better than fiddling with both oilers. That web page says "As an example, I set my STC-88 oiler at 10 drops of oil per minute for the rear compressor cylinder and 8 drops per minute for the front ram cylinder. " So that's one drip every 6 seconds for the rear, and 7.5 seconds for the front, with James's setting at one every 3-5.  In the end I really think there a lot like Harley's and Jeeps. If it isn't blowing oil out, the oiler is empty.

[swedgemon]

I use Mobil DTE BB (ISO 220 VG) on my Striker 40kg hammer.  As you will see in the photos, I got tired of overfilling my oil reservoir, so I installed a sight-glass (from W W Grainger, I think).  When drilling the sight-glass holes, be careful of chipping off the layer of plaster the Chinese smear over their castings...might have to use some silicon calk to make the installation oil-tight.  My magnetic switch was originally mounted on top of the front cylinder but hammer vibration would kick it out after about 10 minutes of running...I brought some 2 X 4s down from the roof truss, mounted the switch there and it runs like it should now.

[pike3e]

it is likely not the oil. Originally from the factory they are set so that when the treadle is let totally off the dies touch. You can work around this if you want by setting the linkage between the hand lever on the side and the treadle to slightly engage the treadle even when it is totally let off. You basically find out how much engagement you want and then drill a hole in the linkage and attach it there.  

[Portuguese]

Thank you all for your assistance.

 

[swedgemon]

On colder mornings I get the front cylinder of my hammer warmed up by causing the front piston to "tupp" within an inch of the bottom die for about 10 minutes.  I use a sliding prop (probably not a recommended practice) under the rear of the treadle bar while the hammer is warming up, then use the 3/8 X 42 rod to push it back out of the way when I go to work.  My hammer sets on a "cow mat" from Tractor Supply Company, directly on the 4" floor slab...there is no massive foundation under the hammer. There are 2 3/4" dowel pins going through the 1" base plate into the floor slab to keep the hammer from "walking" (guess how I found out I needed the pins??).  Hope your hammer install is going well...Happy New Year !!

[ThomasPowers]

I'm guessing it was pretty much how I found out that a 515# anvil would walk if you are doing enough heavy hammering!  Only took a few fence staples to corral my anvil...