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Layering Kaowool?

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I have a simple question. As I build my gasser I've opted to start the lining with 2" Kaowool as suggested. This afternoons a friend of mine stopped by in his work van to look at what I was doing. He's a HVAC and as it turned out he uses Kaowool but he only uses 3/4" blanket. He said it could be layered as I suspected it could be however I wanted to ask you guys with forge experience. I think I'll add three layers offsetting the joints by a 1/4 rotation and then put the ridgidizer to it. I know it's a 1/4" thicker than I planned however I have the room and it was free.

What do you think?

Yeah it can be done. It's been done to make the internal diameter smaller. There's a special "glue" that is used to bond the kaowool to the shell which can be used to bond the kaowool to the kaowool.

I've layered, but never used any kind of glue.  I just seal the outer layer once I line it twice.  If the density of the 3/4" won't work for the form desired, consider the pleating technique where you can build in almost any liner thickness. Just be sure the blanket is rated for the temperature it will be exposed to or include a cast refractory inner liner

Layering kaowool is not only another way of lining a forge, it's the preferred method (like wpearson said)! It allows for easier maintenance of the forge when you're swapping out old kaowool, plus it's easier to manage thinner blankets than one big heavy one.

Plus, who can argue with free kaowool? lol

  • Author

Free was the best part. I will go ahead and line with the three blankets, one joint at 3 o'clock, the second at 9 o'clock and the third at 6 o'clock and therm cut in a piece to create a flat floor area. After that I will go with 1/2 of kastolite 30 LI and finally some kiln wash. 

Thanks for confirming my thought fellows!

The rigidizer will stick the layers together. Cutting them so you have to compress them to get them to fit helps hold everything in place too.

Frosty The Lucky.

  • Author
7 minutes ago, Frosty said:

The rigidizer will stick the layers together. Cutting them so you have to compress them to get them to fit helps hold everything in place too.

Frosty The Lucky.

Paint on rigidizer between the layers or will it penetrate three layers?

i was banking in the compression fit to keep it fairly tight before the rigidizer and kastolite.

No, emplace a layer of rigidized blanket. Wet the rigidized contact surfaces of the next layers as you install them. Rigidized ceramic blanket will develop a stiff surface so the next layer of rigidizer stays more or less on the surface sticking the two layers together. Not glue but good enough for this.

KastOLite sticks to rigidized ceramic blanket like a charm.

Frosty The Lucky.

  • Author
9 minutes ago, Frosty said:

No, emplace a layer of rigidized blanket. Wet the rigidized contact surfaces of the next layers as you install them. Rigidized ceramic blanket will develop a stiff surface so the next layer of rigidizer stays more or less on the surface sticking the two layers together. Not glue but good enough for this.

KastOLite sticks to rigidized ceramic blanket like a charm.

Frosty The Lucky.

Alrighty then, good info. That's how I will proceed. Thank you Frosty.

Everything Frosty said was correct, but some of it is a question of druthers. I would 'druther' look all the blanket in position, and so preferr to drench each layer completly, heat cure it, and repeat the process with each succeeding layer. Frosty would rather reatin the ability to save the inner layer and so he preferes to only soak the layers partially through. The right tool is a spritzer, and you can see how deeply the glass is penetrating into each layer becouse the colloidal silica in water contains food dye colors as a visual aid.

  • Author
2 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

 The right tool is a spritzer, and you can see how deeply the glass is penetrating into each layer becouse the colloidal silica in water contains food dye colors as a visual aid.

That works, I have a spritzer so that should work well. Thank you sir!

  • Author
11 minutes ago, Peter Bui said:

Tried searching on google what a spritzer is and all I see is beverage bottles

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritzer

Hmmm...what I figured the reference to a spritzer was is a high volume low pressure paint gun canister. I've used the one I have for very thick syrup like materials to obtain a flooding or puddling of material. I certainly could be wrong but to me it will work great as I can work a small area with little to no overspray or waste.

Yep I get it now your using a spritzer for the rigidizer. Still abit early here in Australia.....need my cup of coffee....

  • Author
9 minutes ago, Peter Bui said:

Yep I get it now your using a spritzer for the rigidizer. Still abit early here in Australia.....need my cup of coffee....

Lol I need coffee all day!

  • 2 weeks later...

I am talking about a thumb activated spray devise used on millions of common house hold cleaners, and then usually thrown out.

  • Author
1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said:

I am talking about a thumb activated spray devise used on millions of common house hold cleaners, and then usually thrown out.

Oh yeah, I didn't even think of that. My mind went straight to my high volume low air spray gun. Lol....boys and toys.

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