CTBlades Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 I have a simple question. As I build my gasser I've opted to start the lining with 2" Kaowool as suggested. This afternoons a friend of mine stopped by in his work van to look at what I was doing. He's a HVAC and as it turned out he uses Kaowool but he only uses 3/4" blanket. He said it could be layered as I suspected it could be however I wanted to ask you guys with forge experience. I think I'll add three layers offsetting the joints by a 1/4 rotation and then put the ridgidizer to it. I know it's a 1/4" thicker than I planned however I have the room and it was free. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Yeah it can be done. It's been done to make the internal diameter smaller. There's a special "glue" that is used to bond the kaowool to the shell which can be used to bond the kaowool to the kaowool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpearson Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 that is the preferred method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 I've layered, but never used any kind of glue. I just seal the outer layer once I line it twice. If the density of the 3/4" won't work for the form desired, consider the pleating technique where you can build in almost any liner thickness. Just be sure the blanket is rated for the temperature it will be exposed to or include a cast refractory inner liner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackKnight0739 Posted October 8, 2016 Share Posted October 8, 2016 Layering kaowool is not only another way of lining a forge, it's the preferred method (like wpearson said)! It allows for easier maintenance of the forge when you're swapping out old kaowool, plus it's easier to manage thinner blankets than one big heavy one. Plus, who can argue with free kaowool? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 8, 2016 Author Share Posted October 8, 2016 Free was the best part. I will go ahead and line with the three blankets, one joint at 3 o'clock, the second at 9 o'clock and the third at 6 o'clock and therm cut in a piece to create a flat floor area. After that I will go with 1/2 of kastolite 30 LI and finally some kiln wash. Thanks for confirming my thought fellows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 The rigidizer will stick the layers together. Cutting them so you have to compress them to get them to fit helps hold everything in place too. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 7 minutes ago, Frosty said: The rigidizer will stick the layers together. Cutting them so you have to compress them to get them to fit helps hold everything in place too. Frosty The Lucky. Paint on rigidizer between the layers or will it penetrate three layers? i was banking in the compression fit to keep it fairly tight before the rigidizer and kastolite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 No, emplace a layer of rigidized blanket. Wet the rigidized contact surfaces of the next layers as you install them. Rigidized ceramic blanket will develop a stiff surface so the next layer of rigidizer stays more or less on the surface sticking the two layers together. Not glue but good enough for this. KastOLite sticks to rigidized ceramic blanket like a charm. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 9 minutes ago, Frosty said: No, emplace a layer of rigidized blanket. Wet the rigidized contact surfaces of the next layers as you install them. Rigidized ceramic blanket will develop a stiff surface so the next layer of rigidizer stays more or less on the surface sticking the two layers together. Not glue but good enough for this. KastOLite sticks to rigidized ceramic blanket like a charm. Frosty The Lucky. Alrighty then, good info. That's how I will proceed. Thank you Frosty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Everything Frosty said was correct, but some of it is a question of druthers. I would 'druther' look all the blanket in position, and so preferr to drench each layer completly, heat cure it, and repeat the process with each succeeding layer. Frosty would rather reatin the ability to save the inner layer and so he preferes to only soak the layers partially through. The right tool is a spritzer, and you can see how deeply the glass is penetrating into each layer becouse the colloidal silica in water contains food dye colors as a visual aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 2 hours ago, Mikey98118 said: The right tool is a spritzer, and you can see how deeply the glass is penetrating into each layer becouse the colloidal silica in water contains food dye colors as a visual aid. That works, I have a spritzer so that should work well. Thank you sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Tried searching on google what a spritzer is and all I see is beverage bottles https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritzer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 11 minutes ago, Peter Bui said: Tried searching on google what a spritzer is and all I see is beverage bottles https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritzer Hmmm...what I figured the reference to a spritzer was is a high volume low pressure paint gun canister. I've used the one I have for very thick syrup like materials to obtain a flooding or puddling of material. I certainly could be wrong but to me it will work great as I can work a small area with little to no overspray or waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gorō Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Yep I get it now your using a spritzer for the rigidizer. Still abit early here in Australia.....need my cup of coffee.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 9, 2016 Author Share Posted October 9, 2016 9 minutes ago, Peter Bui said: Yep I get it now your using a spritzer for the rigidizer. Still abit early here in Australia.....need my cup of coffee.... Lol I need coffee all day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 I am talking about a thumb activated spray devise used on millions of common house hold cleaners, and then usually thrown out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTBlades Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said: I am talking about a thumb activated spray devise used on millions of common house hold cleaners, and then usually thrown out. Oh yeah, I didn't even think of that. My mind went straight to my high volume low air spray gun. Lol....boys and toys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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