New axe maker Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 I tried making a bottle cap opener and as I was finishing up the drifting it cracked. I think it was because Idrilled out the hole than drifted the hole. The stock was bigger than the one that I made before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Picture so we can see what happened? You might be right, punching and drifting tends to the the project used to the idea of being drifted to OWWWWW! size. Have you thought about a Christmas ornament/decoration you can forge at the next meeting? I have a couple ideas kicking around but maybe a Christmas theme bottle opener. Hmmmmm Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Slit punch and drift is the way to go, Drifting a drilled hole is going to stretch material, rather than displace it to the shape you want. If you drill, then forge it over the horn to stretch the material and enlarge the size, Drifting is used to give an accurate sized hole, which may be square, round, or other some other desired profile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New axe maker Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 That's what I was thinking. Next time I need to forge a slitter. I'll post pictures some time tonight if.i get the chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 On 10/3/2016 at 7:35 AM, New axe maker said: That's what I was thinking. Next time I need to forge a slitter. I'll post pictures some time tonight if.i get the chance. Use Brian Brazeal's slitter pattern, they work a treat. I think he covers how to get the correct edge angle in his how to video but if not. You can weld two nuts solidly to a plate touching on corners. The V where the edges touch is the angle he recommends as most effective for his style slitter punch. Idiot that I oh so often am I had a couple welded to a plate and getting ready to weld a shank for the hardy hole. I was thinking about good ways to make sure the shank was square to the anvil's face without welding anywhere NEAR my anvil's face and low and BEHOLD my eye espied my swedge block. I'd just inserted the pinch bar in a square hole to leverage it up on the upper surface and the light came on, the edge facing up at that time was hex swages. Each and every hex swadge has 2 perfect inside angles of the correct angle. DOH!! I'll be happy to bring the swadge I welded up along next time I come to Anchorage if you'd like. It's just sitting there reminding me to take a look around before . . . Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New axe maker Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 Sorry about the delay but here are the pictures of the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donniev Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 That looks fairly thick still (idk for sure though, pics can be deceiving) either way that left side in the top picture is really thin. As stated either slit or punch and drift. I punch and drift my openers, I've probably only made 50 or so but that's what I do I got a bunch of coil spring for free after talking to a local mechanic, it's good steel for slitters, punch's and drifts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 I use the slit and drift technique to form the initial hole. The slit leaves more material on the sides, in my experience. Then, open with drift and horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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