Steamboat Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 I just purchased a small 75-pound anvil at a flea market a couple of days ago. I didn't spend a great deal, so I figured it was low risk. The overall condition seemed pretty decent. One edge of the steel face plate is in excellent condition, although the other edge of the plate is chipped. The face is very flat overall, within about 1/32" (+/- 1/64 inch) both width- and length-wise, as checked with a small surface plate and shims. A tapping test over the face seemed nice and consistent, with no sound characteristics that would indicate a detached plate to my basically untrained ears. A ball-bearing rebound test yielded about an 85% rebound, and I suspect that the rebound might be even better than that if I were to clean off the surface rust. The hardie and pritchel holes are in good shape with good edges. I looked closely, but could not find a logo or maker's mark on it. The features of the anvil suggest (to my anvil-challenged mind) a Trenton, but the Trenton anvils seem to have a number of similarities to some Arm and Hammer anvils. The steel face plate is roughly 3/8" thick and is visually distinguishable from the body of the anvil. There is a 'caplet' depression under the base. Stamped on the front edge of the foot is "75" and what appears to be "A158838" if I'm reading it correctly (see photo). Any more information on this little guy would be appreciated, including any details about manufacturing methods and materials. For example, is it a forged wrought iron body with a steel plate face forge welded to the body? Is the anvil's upper body forge welded to the base at the waist? I have not done a spark test yet on the body or base. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thief_Of_Navarre Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 All that Trenton I have seen have had the noticeable step on the feet. Rebound test will tell you all you need to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 The way the weight and serial # are marked suggest a Trenton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 The serial number is straight Trenton. A&H usually have the weights under the logo on the side. A rebound test between an Arm and Hammer and a Trenton would probably be indistinguishable. Both are excellent anvils. To get answers to your questions I would suggest you purchase Postman's Anvils in America. It may seem expensive but you'll be amazed at what you can learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamboat Posted September 11, 2016 Author Share Posted September 11, 2016 41 minutes ago, Thief_Of_Navarre said: All that Trenton I have seen have had the noticeable step on the feet. Rebound test will tell you all you need to know Ahh, yes. I'm the detail-oriented type who likes to know more than I really "need" to know...gets me in trouble sometimes. I suppose it's my historical archaeology background showing through. I've heard (maybe I can find the reference again) that there were two different lines/brands(?) of Trenton anvils: One line consisted of anvils imported to the US from Europe, and another line of Trenton anvils was produced by the Columbus Forge and Iron Company (Ohio), and it was the imported line that had flat areas or ledges (possibly the "steps" you're referring to) on the front and back feet. Maybe someone can chime in with more on that. Steamboat 23 minutes ago, Fatfudd said: The serial number is straight Trenton. A&H usually have the weights under the logo on the side. A rebound test between an Arm and Hammer and a Trenton would probably be indistinguishable. Both are excellent anvils. To get answers to your questions I would suggest you purchase Postman's Anvils in America. It may seem expensive but you'll be amazed at what you can learn. I've heard of the book. It would be a really nice addition to my library. I'll keep my eye out for a used copy. In the meantime, I may look into an inter-library loan of the book. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamboat Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 8 hours ago, njanvilman said: The way the weight and serial # are marked suggest a Trenton. Thanks. That info does seem to be marked in the same way that it is on some Trenton anvils that I've seen. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamboat Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 I did a bit of cleanup work on the Anvil (Trenton, ca. 1918). I didn't remove any metal from the top face other than burnishing off the light surface rust with a Scotch-Brite pad. I did a little light touch-up along the edges and also dressed the chips along a section of one edge (on the far side, not really visible in the photo), making a pretty decent 45-degree bevel, which could be useful. I'm also putting some finishing touches on a stand for it (below), which I made mostly from scrap lumber and metal I had lying around. I still plan to add a small tool rack, as well as a floor flange around the bottom. The top and bottom angle pairs are recessed into notches in the wood, which secures them so that they cannot be pulled out of place. I also used some pieces of reinforced-rubber conveyor belt as spacers between the hold-down channels and the anvil. The rubber spacers and the wooden stand seem to have quieted it down a good deal. Now, instead of a loud 'clang,' I get a much more subdued 'clunk,' which should help keep the neighbors happy. I'm keeping my eye out for a larger anvil, but this little 75-pounder is a welcome addition to my slowly-growing blacksmithing kit, and the price was right. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Geist Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Nice job on the stand. Looks like it should work out ok for you George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamboat Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 On 10/23/2016 at 0:50 PM, George Geist said: Nice job on the stand. Looks like it should work out ok for you George Thanks. I just gave it its first workout on the new stand, and it's solid. I adjusted the surface of the wooden stand for maximum contact with the bottom of the anvil using a simple old technique: I rubbed graphite on the bottom of the anvil and moved it around on the wood to mark the high spots, and then ground off the high spots and repeated that several times until it was contacting the wood quite evenly. It might not be all that important, but I figured that it wouldn't hurt. I'll probably make a steel stand for the next anvil (whenever it materializes) and include a pair of small wheels that it could tip back on for moving it around the shop, but it would not rest on the wheels when upright, since I would want the stand to be firm against the floor. A tool rack could probably double as a handle for trundling it around. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 For my built up stands I took an electricians drill bit and drilled through the wood and installed the all thread directly. I also used the bolts that we use out here for guardrails and utility poles that I find at the local scrap yard. I particularly like the utility pole "eyebolts" as they make a nice hand hold/tong/hammer holder and at 20 cents a pound are much cheaper than buying stuff at the hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamboat Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 29 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: For my built up stands I took an electricians drill bit and drilled through the wood and installed the all thread directly. I also used the bolts that we use out here for guardrails and utility poles that I find at the local scrap yard. I particularly like the utility pole "eyebolts" as they make a nice hand hold/tong/hammer holder and at 20 cents a pound are much cheaper than buying stuff at the hardware store. Like you, I used an extra-long bit and drilled all the way through the wooden stand, so the threaded rod does go all the way through it. The fact that it also passes through the embedded steel angles just adds some (probably unnecessary) structural strength. The power line eyebolts you mentioned are a good idea for saving a few bucks. I'm assuming you're talking about the ones used to secure wire rope braces to the pole, or something similar. Steamboat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Yes; I lucked out one scrapyard visit and the electrical coop had just dumped a load of scrap and I got a bunch of the eyebolts---handy as my shop extension was built using 2 40' long utility poles for the uprights (saw in 20' lengths for 4 poles set in the dirt...off the end of the first shop so 2 15' bents for the new section; shop now 20'x60' with 10' walls) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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